I have a 98 Cherokee se i need to bleed my brakes does any one know the proper pattern? Thanks

 

Start from the farthest point from the master. aka pass rear, driver rear, pass front, drive front

 

^yup.

 

X2 Exactly right...

 

what the hell, I'll 3rd this and add:

It's easiest if you have someone to pump the brakes 2-3x and hold while you open the valve and close it when he hollers stop when the pedal hits the floor. Then he can top off the reservoir while you roll over to the next brake. Also using a small tube running into a container to catch the fluid from the valve will save you a LOT of clean up.

 

Not to thread jack but that's the way all vehicles should be bled, or so I thought. Are there vehicles out there that have a different bleeding pattern that I'm unaware of?

 

Bleeding instructions for my Firehawk say to start with the ABS unit(3 bleeder screws on there) Then move on to all 4 calipers starting farthest from the master cylinder, then come back to the ABS unit, and bleed it again.
I have a pressure bleeder tank, and makes this procedure a piece of cake.

 

My 67 chevy pickup you have to do the driver's side rear, then passenger rear because the main line is run down the passenger side to the T, then splits. Not sure why they crossed the main line just to have it cross back over, but that's where the line holders are on the frame.

 

okay thanks, i was wondering because i know some cars have different patterns and i want to get as much air out of my brake system as possible

 

Huh, learned something new

 

Have a buddy help you. I used a vacuum gun once and my pedal was still mushy.
I'm with post #2 also!

 

Yeah I am not a fan of the vacuum bleeder every one says its better but I have always had better results from the old school way

 

Oh yeah, welcome to the new world of ABS!
I had a couple Fords that were a nightmare to get the air out of.
Odd pattern and you had to cycle the ABS with "Sun electronic tool #43798x" to get the air out from behind the valves.
Nobody has a "Sun electronic tool #43798x".

This non-ABS Cherokee is a dream. Totally old school!
Heck after having everything apart I gravity bled the brakes in 10 minutes.
Love it.

Steve

 

toyota trucks have a valve on the frame rail that needs to be bled as well, think its called a load valve or something.....i think its purpose is to compensate the for loaded verse unloaded vehicle as it runs a link from frame to axle that changes the valve.....confused the **** outta me and a buddy when we first did his brakes when he got the truck and we couldnt figure out why these brakes wouldnt bleed like normal after 2 bottles.

 

I hate to drag up an old post but I saw a mushy pedal was referanced above and the bleeding was a remody for that.

What about a hard pedal, my other jeeps/trucks have a softer pedal that can be pressed easily and the truck stops easily.

MY new jeep has new pads all the way around but the pedal is hard to press all the way down and come to full stop, espically if you are going fast to quick stop.