cheap lockers
They are basically the same. The aussie is supposed to be the improved version of the lockright but in my case, the lockright was quieter than the aussie i had previously.
Renix Super Guru
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 24,653
Likes: 19
From: In yourz postez fissin jurr spelinzs
Year: 1990XJ/1989MJ
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0L Renix
They replace the spider gears so now instead of a set of rotating gears you have the stepped plates of your locker. When you accelerate they lock the two axles together.
They are not like changing the R & P so no shimming or bearing tightening is required.
You can do it yourself.
They are not like changing the R & P so no shimming or bearing tightening is required.
You can do it yourself.
They replace the spider gears so now instead of a set of rotating gears you have the stepped plates of your locker. When you accelerate they lock the two axles together.
They are not like changing the R & P so no shimming or bearing tightening is required.
You can do it yourself.
They are not like changing the R & P so no shimming or bearing tightening is required.
You can do it yourself.

For the rear (my experience is on a dana 35, six times) you just pull the shafts out and fish out the spider gears and then throw in the lockright parts and you're done.
For the front, you have to remove the carrier from the axle. That involves removing four bolts and prying it out. It's not hard. Then you gotta take the ring gear off and then take out the spider gears and insert the lockright parts. Make sure you put everything back the SAME way it came off. Mark everything.
Lockright or aussie? Either, whatever you find cheaper cuz both are the same, just designed slightly different.
CF Veteran
Joined: Apr 2008
Posts: 2,237
Likes: 3
From: Northern Illinois
Year: 90
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
At Jeepin.com there is a write up on putting a EZ-locker in a D-35. A lockrite would be the same process. They used three people, But I did it with one, and a little body contorting...
It only took me about 3 hours from raising the rear end off the ground to the wheels hitting the ground again..and that is with a break to search the internet for the write-up.
It only took me about 3 hours from raising the rear end off the ground to the wheels hitting the ground again..and that is with a break to search the internet for the write-up.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 491
Likes: 3
From: raleigh, nc
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
yea it just sucks that you have to replace the carrier in the front. i remember this guy at the shop told me id have to do that when i regeared. its only like $70 but still... regearing is first and foremost but that wont be happeneing for a loooong time. Mines a stick though if i regear ill still get better mpgs just like you AW4 guys right?
if your truck is a trailer rig i would weld it up. take a plasma cutter cut a piece of 1 inch thick plate steel the same width and height as the middle of the carrier. spray the carrier down with carb cleaner real good to remove all oil excess and weld the piece you cut out in. ive done this numerous times and never had one break, im only running 32's but we did a tj on 40's a while back and he has had his up to harlen quite a few times with no problems. you just have to really throw some heat to it and make sure you really penetrate. if you do this to a dd you can drive on the road but its gonna be pretty squirley in the rain.
trail rig or not this does not work well for the front unless you have locking hubs and even then its not a good idea
trail rig or not this does not work well for the front unless you have locking hubs and even then its not a good idea
Last edited by trevor; May 24, 2008 at 03:13 PM.
if your truck is a trailer rig i would weld it up. take a plasma cutter cut a piece of 1 inch thick plate steel the same width and height as the middle of the carrier. spray the carrier down with carb cleaner real good to remove all oil excess and weld the piece you cut out in. ive done this numerous times and never had one break, im only running 32's but we did a tj on 40's a while back and he has had his up to harlen quite a few times with no problems. you just have to really throw some heat to it and make sure you really penetrate. if you do this to a dd you can drive on the road but its gonna be pretty squirley in the rain.
trail rig or not this does not work well for the front unless you have locking hubs and even then its not a good idea
trail rig or not this does not work well for the front unless you have locking hubs and even then its not a good idea
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 1,053
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From: Ft. Lewis, Wa
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I know its an old thread but it was very useful. My question is when you get one of these lockers do you have to order them for the gears you have as well. Or do they just work with whayever axle you have. And will a auto locker effect towing at all?
They should work with different gearing. It should not affect towing. You will notice the normal auto-locker quirks but nothing major.
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,533
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From: eaton ohio
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
go with the power trax no slip locker from what ive read up it doesnt lock up as much thru turns as the loc right does, and that will save you some rubber and some green and will also reduce strain on your axles and all the other moving parts that go along with it, they are very similar in design and size, but the no slip is more mannored for the DD granted the loc right is good for the DD but the no slip is better.


