Thanks for the picture. I tried to adjust the kick down cable and it's shifting much smoother than before, but it still feels late. Maybe it's normal for Cherokees to shift at around 2500 ~ 3000 RPM (It's my first "off-road" SUV) Our first car is a Volvo V70 (comfort-aimed car). Thanks again.

 

I was told to check the transmission vacuum modulator, would someone know if I have a in my 92 Cherokee Limited? If I do, where is it located? Thanks.

 

The AW4 is electronically controlled, so pretty sure there's no vacuum modulator on the trans on a 92. I say it's definitely not normal if the trans won't upshift below 2500-3000 rpm. I can hold mine steady at 2000 rpm and it will upshift smoothly through the gears.

I have not tried this yet, but only read about doing it...you could pull the fuse for the TCM which basically gives you complete manual control of the trans. Start out with the shift lever in 1-2 (it will not shift into 2 with the TCM disabled), try shifting into 3 while the RPMs are still relatively low, and then D. It if shifts appropriately with the TCM disabled, then the TCM is probably bad. Do this at your own risk, but I would try it if it were mine.

 

Not to hijack here but where would this switch be to change the towing points? would a 2000 have it?

 

dc, you can fine tune the cable by hand. Try adjusting the outer sheath slightly in either direction to fine tune the shift point.

 

A 2000 would not have this switch. Those that dont have the TCU set to power by default.

 

You were right. TCM is the problem (whatever it stands for) I took the fuse out and tried shifting manualy and I can decide when to shift almost like a manual transmission. Would there be any problem if I keep driving it like this until I get a new TCM? Would an used one be worth it or is it something I should buy new? Thanks for everything, you guys are great.

 

dont jump to too many conclusions there: you've confirmed that the TCU ( Transmission Control Unit) is causing it to hold the gear...WHY is another issue.

I'd suggest getting it scanned for codes first, and checking things like the TPS sensor, and I think theres an RPM sensor on the output shaft as well...seperate from the speedo sensor. ( those two come to mind as possibles that might make the TCU hold the shifts...all sorts of possible issues though)

Start with the codes: they'll either point you in the right direction, or flat out tell you the TCU is bad.

 

Thanks for the advice. I'll pull the codes tomorrow and find the root of the problem.

 

I've got the code a bunch of them). so here they are:
22 Coolant temp. sensor
24 TPS
21 02 sensor
s1 Lean F/A condition

 

Ah, I thought of one thing you might want to check. Check the grounding strap from your engine to the frame of the car. It is located in the rear of the engine towards the top on from the valve cover bolt to the fire wall of the car. While this sounds odd I know WEIRD things happen when it is not in good order. I had a radio that went wonky on me even though it pretty much worked, CEL light, O2 sensor codes and a number of other things/codes when the ground strap was broken. Who would have thought. I replaced/fixed the ground strap and all the codes went away. Also, check to see if you grounding cable from your battery to the fender is in good condition. I had to doctor mine up so perhaps yours might be in similar condition. It is just a thought and I figure I ought to mention it as it is probably easier to fix those things if they are problematic to rule out any grounding issues or ground loops that are causing electrical issues.

 

You should replace your CTS.
TPS will have an affect on the AW4 shifting for sure.
O2 sensors change is probably a good idea
And the lean condition would be due to the O2 sensor.

 

I replaced the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor). It's running like a champ, shifting smoothly and getting much better gas mileage. Unbelieveable how one sensor can mess up everything.

 

Sweet!

 

did you just put it in? did you make any adjustments to it?