I was initially only replacing the metal to the outside of my rails. I bought 2 4x2' pieces of 18 gauge for the job. Now that I have torn into it a bit more, the metal in the middle really thinned out by rusting from the bottom above the gas tank. If I were to use the metal I have or go out and buy more, would I have any structural support issues?

This rust is really kicking my butt and I am fighting a losing battle, but I want to make sure sheet metal with no beads or whatever that is called, is ok.

Also would it be ok for me to remove as much rust from inside the rails as possible, and then try to protect it? I have heavy rust primer and some asphalt tar stuff i got for free. Would it be suggested to only primer, only tar, both, or neither of those options?

 

Yes, it all sounds good.

Personally, I'd find a junk XJ that I could cut the floor out of. Seems easier than trying to rebuild from scratch.

 

I can't imagine a junked xj in Michigan would have a floor worthy of salvage I will take your idea a different way and possibly get the metal shielding over the fuel and vent lines...I beat the hell out of that getting it out.

 

Hmm, I see your point.

A buddy of mine bought a truck from Boston a while back and brought it back down here. A 2008 Ford Ranger with rust so bad that I could poke a hole in the floor of the bed of the truck with my index finger.

I don't know what the hell he was thinking. I told him he couldn't park next to me. I didn't want that crap jumping off his truck and getting on mine.

Dang Northern people. :P

 

Yeah the winter loves my xj. There is no pan left from the rails and out, from front to back. Rails are in ok shape though!

 

My fuel hose splash shield was ate up pretty good so I bought one from the dealer. At the time the counter puke said there were only four left in the country. Cost wasn't that bad.

My Michigan '99 isn't too bad, as far as floor pans/rails rust goes. I've had undercoating on it since day one. The inside of the rails are probably bad, but this Heep will outlast me I'm sure.

 

Are you talking about the one bolted on under the lines? or the one glued on above them behind the interior molding/carpet? I may just end up leaving mine off because it is covered anyway.

 

The one bolted under the hoses.

 

whole new floor pans are ava you know? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1993-1996-Je...55f11d&vxp=mtr

 

As much as I would love that, the budget doesn't. $250 without shipping included, for just 1 of 3 pans I would need is high for a college student.

 

Man I hate rust too. My '99 XJ in northern Michigan is a damn rust bucket, had to fully redo the floor panels, frames need repairing, rockers got replaced. The '89 (10 years older!) that I bought here in British Columbia has just a tiny bit of surface rust.

As far as structural support with the lack of ribbing I think you'll be fine. Thousands of people have done exactly what you're planning to do. Just drill some holes in it directly above the frame rails and make spot welds onto it. That retains rigidity from the frame to the body.

 

Having lived in the UP for 20 years, I agree. Not that down here in WI is any better, danged road salt. My '96 floors rotted through..twice ... I just fixed them again and did the rockers a while back, now the cargo area pan is looking like a sheet metal island.
I know what you mean about feeling like you're fighting a losing battle. I think long term- we are. We're just buying time.
I'm eyeing up this for the cargo area:

They ship out of Redford, MI. Might not be too bad on UPS costs. They also have the floor pans for about $90 for the pair. They fit with a mimimal amount of hammering, FWIW.

I'd put a rust converter on the existing metal before primer or tar- POR15 maybe Eastwood's product (I forget the name), something like that. Neither primer or tar will stop the existing rust for very long. On new metal it should work OK for prevention.

 

Well ill share my plan to save my 01, the drivers floor is bad (the rest of the truck is spotless), I'm gonna
replace the drivers pan

por 15 the rest of the floor (these XJ's rot from the inside out)

use a mixture of chain saw lubricant, Wd40, wheel bearing grease, heat it up on a hotplate, and spray the underside from front to back underneath

drill four holes on the top of the under the still plates, inspect for rust starting and dirt, flush if needed, spray the rust proofing combo inside.

Put some wheel bearing grease under the front windshield moulding

On my old 2000 ram I went underneath and put wheel bearing grease on all the
underside. The truck still looks like new underneath after 7+ years of ownership.

That's how to protect against rust

 

4'x10' sheet of 18ga $40. Welder, hammar, cutoff wheel.. Make your own. Its not hard. Ive swapped floors before, seems to be just as much work to rip two floors out .. Just rip ur bad floor out and fab u a new floor. Ur puttin carpet over it anyways right? If not jus rubber undercoat and be done. Its not that bad of a job.

 

pretty sure it can be found cheaper being on a budget affects every one nowadays