Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go here XJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.

Can't get UCA bolts to move.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 04-10-2010, 04:25 PM
  #1  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default Can't get UCA bolts to move.

How did you guys get that hard to reach pass side UCA bolt out up in the frame? After contorting myself to breack the nut loose (no room for impact wrench or even socket....all box wrench). Now I got the nut off, and can't get the bolt to slide out. Can't even get in there to get an air hammer on it.

btw - I am trying to remove the upper control arm to replace the bushings on a 99 XJ Sport

edit- Ok, now I am . I can't get the axle end bolt out either. It won't budge. What is the deal? I am not going to even attemp the drivers side if the pass side is this hard.
Old 04-10-2010, 05:12 PM
  #2  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

anyone?
Old 04-10-2010, 05:22 PM
  #3  
CF Veteran
 
JeepingDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT.
Posts: 18,785
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 88
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

From this bracket? Spray PB on it and get it in there good. You should be able to get a socket on it thru the hole in the frame and break it loose.
Attached Images   
Old 04-10-2010, 05:30 PM
  #4  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

I got the nut off, but I can't get the bolt out. And I can't spin the bolt.....there is a flat oblong "flange" tack welded to it so that it won't spin. I am guessing this is so that you can tighten the nut without having to get into the frame.


Here is the axle end. This bolt won't budge either.

Last edited by Mudshack; 04-10-2010 at 05:45 PM.
Old 04-10-2010, 05:43 PM
  #5  
CF Veteran
 
JeepingDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT.
Posts: 18,785
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 88
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

I got mine out by tapping them out with a hammer. But in the bolt is rusted right inside the bushing and won't budge. That was the problem I had with my rear springs I ended up cutting the bolt on both sides of the bushing with a sawzall on the inside of the bracket. It's sucks but sometimes thats the last resort.
Old 04-10-2010, 05:49 PM
  #6  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default



I have avoided buying a sawzall for so long. And I figured this would be a simple afternoon job (with a ball joint press from O'Reillys). This is so frustrating. Ever time I touch this XJ, the simple jobs turn into EPIC WRENCH-A-THONS!
Old 04-10-2010, 06:06 PM
  #7  
CF Veteran
 
JeepingDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT.
Posts: 18,785
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 88
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

AHHH one thing!! Do you have all the pressure off the bolts? Idk how you have it jacked up. But May have to support the body on jack stands and use a floor jack under the axle to get the pressure off because those don't even look as bad as mine were.
Old 04-10-2010, 06:23 PM
  #8  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

I just was going to ask the same question. I have the body up on stands. And I have tried the jack under the axle with it raised high....and with it lowered all the way down.

Now...update. I pounded the crud out of the axel side bolt. I got it to moved to the point that I can no longer hit it (the tip is inside the control arm). I can't get it to pull through anymore by prying, and worse yet. It looks like it is not lined up to be pushed back through. I am pounding the snot out of it to try and get it back through but it is binding on the the inside of the control arm.

Do I have to have the axel jacked up high or low to release the bind?
Old 04-10-2010, 07:25 PM
  #9  
Senior Member
 
1990cherokee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Yelm Wa
Posts: 822
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Default

After you have the nut off put vise grips on the bolt head and tap with a punch and pull with the vise grips works. As for the axle end, i gave up on it am going to have to cut mine off with my mini cut off wheel.
Old 04-10-2010, 08:24 PM
  #10  
Seasoned Member
 
AWOL's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: DeKalb, IL
Posts: 262
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 2008 JKU (my XJ is long gone)
Engine: 3.8
Default

if you are going to replace the bushings why not use some good heat and burn out the old ones. Then get the bolts out. Mine sucked too but I used a beefy impact and just worked it until they came loose from the sleeves.
Old 04-10-2010, 09:01 PM
  #11  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

Well, I got the bolt back through using a ball joint press. And I torqued everything down tight all around. Upper control arms are going to have to stay. I will replace the lower control arms when the Ironman Adjustables come in. I will replace a torn drivers side tie end rod and get a professional alignment. If this doesn't cure my death wobble, I will attack the Upper Control Arms again. But not worth our only vehicle undrivable.

Thanks for your help, guys.
Old 04-10-2010, 10:55 PM
  #12  
G_P
Senior Member
 
G_P's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Middlesex County CT
Posts: 559
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O
Default

I would just have cut off the bolt on either side of the bushing. Drop the CA out and then pound out the remaining bolt pieces.

If my Jeep has taught me anything it's that it's better to just cut off any stubborn rusty bolts. I'd rather spend a few bucks on new bolts than spend a few hours trying to get the old ones out.
Old 04-11-2010, 08:57 AM
  #13  
Member
Thread Starter
 
Mudshack's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 118
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
Default

I think what you guys are saying is......You own a 11 year old Jeep. BUY A SAWZALL. lol
Old 04-11-2010, 11:05 AM
  #14  
CF Veteran
 
JeepingDan's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: CT.
Posts: 18,785
Received 12 Likes on 12 Posts
Year: 88
Engine: 4.0 HO
Default

Originally Posted by Mudshack
I think what you guys are saying is......You own a 11 year old Jeep. BUY A SAWZALL. lol
lol and a torch and grinder cutoff wheels...and patience. One thing when I reasemble everything I put generous amounts of antiseize or axle grease on all the nuts and bolts for down the line when you have to take it apart again cuz you know you will.
Old 04-05-2019, 12:11 AM
  #15  
Member
 
double_0_7's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2018
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Default

Originally Posted by Mudshack
Now...update. I pounded the crud out of the axel side bolt. I got it to moved to the point that I can no longer hit it (the tip is inside the control arm). I can't get it to pull through anymore by prying, and worse yet. It looks like it is not lined up to be pushed back through. I am pounding the snot out of it to try and get it back through but it is binding on the the inside of the control arm.

Do I have to have the axel jacked up high or low to release the bind?
This is exactly where I'm at, and I could also use a little help on whether higher or lower with the axle is ideal for releasing pressure on that axle side upper control arm bolt.

Mine are not rusted at all really. The bolt was sliding free with a few love taps from the hammer, and the nut came off cleanly with no struggle. Now that the bolt is inside the control arm, it stopped moving where it sits in the photo.

Honestly, it feels like once the thread hit the inside edge of the control arm, it can't slide as freely, and now it's stuck.

I'd really appreciate any tips short of cutting the bolt.






Quick Reply: Can't get UCA bolts to move.



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 11:10 AM.