I just finished replacing the rear brake pads, all the springs, adjustment stuff, and the brake cylinder. Now I can't get the drum back on. I'm pretty sure I have everything back on correctly and I screwed the auto adjuster all the way down because I thought it might help bring the pads and allow the drum to fit back on but no dice. Not sure why it won't fit now, the new pads aren't that much thicker than the old ones. I'm just replacing them because I figured I might as well while I'm doing everything else.

Are there any common mistakes rookies make while replacing drum brakes? Also, any tips for removing the rusted stuck brake line on the other cylinder? I'm close to rounding the one on the other side and I'd like to not do that. Maybe the penetrating oil I put on it will help tomorrow when I give it another go.

Here's a quick pic I took if that helps any.


Any tips are greatly appreciated. Thanks!

try a hammer

So it's normal to need a hammer to get the drum back on?

I've had to use one before, a few taps and it will pop right on. Once it gets over the initial lip, it won't be so tight. Make sure the pads are all put in correctly as well

Alright, I'll give it a go and I'll double check everything tomorrow to make sure there's nothing out of place. Thanks!

Check the inside lip of the drum. If it has a lip you need to run it down to a place that can lathe off the lip or just go buy new drums

Red, I think it should go even with a lip. Before it had the lip is was at that ID.

Wolf, with the adjuster all the way in, and the upper all the way in, on the pin, it shouldn't need a hammer. Normally the star wheel needs to be cranked out.

Look at the adjuster for the E-Brake cable. I think it's only for cable stretch. People who "don't get it" might tighten that, for the E-brake, not understanding that the auto adjuster on the star wheel rarely works. E-Brake and petal travel are tightened by adjusting the star wheel. If my drum wouldn't fit I'd be checking that cable. (see if it looks changed/loosen it)

All that said....if O'smellys or auto Zoned didn't ask which rear axle you might have, wrong parts are freely provided. Napa is s smarter choice.

Bingo.

Look at the shoes, if my eyes don't deceive me, they look way too big. Hold your old shoe up against the new one, you'll know right away.

I wonder if you got the shoes for the 10 inch drum.

I'll have to check that out although Flintstone makes a good point.

I'll have to look into the adjustment for that cable. Thanks!
I got everything from Advance Auto but I compared everything to the old parts and nothing looked any different from the old parts so I think it's all good there.

I always hold the old parts next to the new parts to make sure there's no glaring differences and they both looked the same to me. I'll check again tomorrow to be sure though. Thanks guys.

Edit:
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/w...s538/5451582-P

I got those shoes and it says it's for the 9 inch drums and yes, they're the cheap ones and the picture is wrong on the site of course.

The shoes will LOOK the same, but the shoes can be bigger than your jeep calls for. I work in a Vintage Mustang shop, drum brakes are a way of life. And those shoes look too big. Don't take em off, just hold your old one up against it.

If your pic shows the right rear brakes, then the primary shoe is the shorter shoe and goes on the leading side (closest to front of Jeep). The adjuster goes on the secondary shoe (which you have correct).
Here's a picture from the XJ write-ups section. They are a bear to get back on. I thought I had mine right and then I ended up taking it to my mechanic and he said to let him do them next time LOL. I think the spring kits you get are not all equal. Check out your old springs to see if they look like the same kind and only do 1 side at a time! I open up the master cylinder and push the plungers in on the wheel cylinder a little too (just not all the way in).

The friction material looks a little larger compared to the pic below if that's what you mean? (I think the angle of the pic is causing a bit of an illusion as well) I'll compare tomorrow. I may even put the old ones back on since they still have a bit of life left in them.

I always compare old and new. The springs all looked the same minus one which I just reused the old one in that case.
The right would be towards the front of the vehicle. This is the passenger side hub in the picture. I'm pretty certain I put the shoes on the same way the old ones were on so if it's wrong, it's been wrong for awhile. Haha. Thanks for the pic that'll be helpful tomorrow!

Not the friction material, they can be for a bigger diameter drum(ie a 10" drum instead of a 9"). The shoe will look the same and the hardware will mount up. But the curve will look wider when stacked with a smaller shoe. Look at your pic, see how close the shoe is to the edge of the backing plate near the top of the "pad"?

That's typical of having the wrong size shoe. Had this happen more times than I can count. The counter guy should have asked what rear end/size drums you have.