Can you make the electric fan work if the A/C tank is empty?
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 454
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From: Middle Tennessee
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L I6
I was having AC condenser probs last year, so I had my AC system purged in prep for an overhaul (my '90 XJ has the old R12 coolant system and i was going to upgrade it anyways)...
But I never did it. It's been winter, so it's been cool out and the cooling system overhaul I did last summer keeps it running super cool.
But the electric fan, of course, is dead now. Is there any way to make it work short of fixing the AC unit? I've been spending repair money on other things (IAC/TPS/exhaust/cat converter) since the jeep is my weekend project vehicle now
Suggestions? Or am I stuck with spending the money for a new condenser + upgrade to R134?
thanks =)
But I never did it. It's been winter, so it's been cool out and the cooling system overhaul I did last summer keeps it running super cool.
But the electric fan, of course, is dead now. Is there any way to make it work short of fixing the AC unit? I've been spending repair money on other things (IAC/TPS/exhaust/cat converter) since the jeep is my weekend project vehicle now

Suggestions? Or am I stuck with spending the money for a new condenser + upgrade to R134?
thanks =)
Last edited by kidkodiak; May 27, 2010 at 11:23 AM. Reason: Corrected typo
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2008
Posts: 5,603
Likes: 0
From: Hollidaysburg, PA
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 lt. 242 cu.in.
My Electric fan kicks on when my temp hits 210 degrees. I have a 90. You could do what Rmart30 said. Just put it on a toggle switch, and switch it on when ever you need extra cooling. And you must mean R12 refrigerant. There was never an R22, only R12 and R143a.
the toggle switch is a good idea just run it through a relay, R22 was what was fridges/freezers. R22 was never used in auto applications that im aware of.
Last edited by fishtaconc; May 26, 2010 at 06:15 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 35
Likes: 1
From: London, England
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 litre
R12 was used here in the uk during the early 80's in many fords, my mk2 granada ghia x was one example.. R12 never had the problems that R134a has caused since the banning of R12.
Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 224
Likes: 1
From: Southern California
Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I do not have a charge in my a/c at the present and my fan comes on at 214 degrees like clockwork, it should not have anything to do with the charge. I think?
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Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2009
Posts: 538
Likes: 3
From: zeeland mi
Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
i did a write up on this useing the fatory wireing and a switch so it works normal or you can flip the switch to have it run when you want heres the link
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f24/ho...lec-fan-48541/
https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f24/ho...lec-fan-48541/
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
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From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 8,172
Likes: 17
From: The Republic of TEXAS
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L HO
The A/C on our '98 XJ is out of commission (not for long though) but we simply removed the A/C compressor fuse (black box under the hood) to disable the compressor. Now, when you push the A/C button, the electric rad fan still kicks in but the compressor doesn't. Works just like a toggle switch.....do others not?
I believe someone posted that the FSM states that the electric rad fan will also engage when the ECM detects coolant temp reaching 217F.
I believe someone posted that the FSM states that the electric rad fan will also engage when the ECM detects coolant temp reaching 217F.
Last edited by djb383; May 26, 2010 at 06:19 PM.
Certainly!
The e-Fan is driven by a Logical OR setup - EITHER the AC REQ signal is sent by the ECU OR the TFS in the driver's side radiator tank closes (or both.)
If you want to be able to "force" the switch on, you simply branch the latter input to make an EITHER-OR-OR circuit. Get a mating pair of Dephi Weatherpack connectors. (I'm going off of the presumption that your rig is the 1990 described in your post...)
You'll make a jumper using 18AWG wire between the connectors - but you'll also have a "tail" off of one side (again, 18AWG is just fine) that you can run into the cabin. I got two pairs of Weatherpacks - one pair for the jumper proper (plugs in between the TFS and the harness connector, one pair for the Wye branch) to simplify things. I also used 18/2 SJOOW from the hardware store - same reason. The 18/2 will have two 18AWG leads in a common overjacket, the wiring is quite flexible, and the overjacket is water-/oil-/grease-resistant. I've been using it underhood for years.
Anyhow, run the 18/2 into the cabin so that it may be connected to a switch at a convenient location - toggle, or an ON-OFF (not momentary - you need a "click" type) pressbutton swtich. The switch merely needs to be rated for 500mA or so - not much.
Turning the switch ON will force the e-fan ON. Turning the switch OFF restores normal operation of the e-fan. If the switch is ON and you turn the key OFF, the fan will also turn OFF (you're not bypassing anything to provide power.)
You have have an EITHER-OR-OR setup - EITHER the AC REQ signal turns the e-fan relay on, OR the TFS turns the e-fan rely ON, OR the toggle switch you've just installed turns the e-fan relay ON. All three signals go to the same relay, and you won't need to add fuses or worry about running a large current anywhere.
Pass the 18/2 SJOOW through a convenient grommet in the firewall.
The e-Fan is driven by a Logical OR setup - EITHER the AC REQ signal is sent by the ECU OR the TFS in the driver's side radiator tank closes (or both.)
If you want to be able to "force" the switch on, you simply branch the latter input to make an EITHER-OR-OR circuit. Get a mating pair of Dephi Weatherpack connectors. (I'm going off of the presumption that your rig is the 1990 described in your post...)
You'll make a jumper using 18AWG wire between the connectors - but you'll also have a "tail" off of one side (again, 18AWG is just fine) that you can run into the cabin. I got two pairs of Weatherpacks - one pair for the jumper proper (plugs in between the TFS and the harness connector, one pair for the Wye branch) to simplify things. I also used 18/2 SJOOW from the hardware store - same reason. The 18/2 will have two 18AWG leads in a common overjacket, the wiring is quite flexible, and the overjacket is water-/oil-/grease-resistant. I've been using it underhood for years.
Anyhow, run the 18/2 into the cabin so that it may be connected to a switch at a convenient location - toggle, or an ON-OFF (not momentary - you need a "click" type) pressbutton swtich. The switch merely needs to be rated for 500mA or so - not much.
Turning the switch ON will force the e-fan ON. Turning the switch OFF restores normal operation of the e-fan. If the switch is ON and you turn the key OFF, the fan will also turn OFF (you're not bypassing anything to provide power.)
You have have an EITHER-OR-OR setup - EITHER the AC REQ signal turns the e-fan relay on, OR the TFS turns the e-fan rely ON, OR the toggle switch you've just installed turns the e-fan relay ON. All three signals go to the same relay, and you won't need to add fuses or worry about running a large current anywhere.
Pass the 18/2 SJOOW through a convenient grommet in the firewall.
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 227
Likes: 0
From: Tell City, IN
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
can i do this also to a 2001? I just want the fan to run whenever the key is on, i don't care about using a toggle, just want to wire it so the efan is always running when the key is on.



I now see my my error I meant R22 in cars.