Cam Break In
#1
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Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 HO
Cam Break In
So it looks like this weekend is going to be the time to crank the new engine. I have read EVERYTHING I could find on Cam Break In, but I wanted to get some input from those in the know. Ideas, suggestions, advice, anything will be appreciated. From what I have read, RPMs around 2000 for 20 minutes, varying it throughout that time. So Im thinking, 1500 for a few minutes, 2400, 1800, 2500, etc. Does this sound right?
#3
Once you know that everything is working(oil pump pressure, cooling system, etc..) I use the 20 min at 2000 RPM to help mate the lifter feet to the cam lobes with the proper amount of lube. The main reason for the HIGH RPM is for adequate lubrication during this HIGH wear period.
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6 4.0L
make sure u change the oil and filter in between
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ker/index.html
if you scroll down a little it will tell you every thing on break-in procedures
http://www.jpmagazine.com/techarticl...ker/index.html
if you scroll down a little it will tell you every thing on break-in procedures
#5
So it looks like this weekend is going to be the time to crank the new engine. I have read EVERYTHING I could find on Cam Break In, but I wanted to get some input from those in the know. Ideas, suggestions, advice, anything will be appreciated. From what I have read, RPMs around 2000 for 20 minutes, varying it throughout that time. So Im thinking, 1500 for a few minutes, 2400, 1800, 2500, etc. Does this sound right?
If it doesn't start immediately don't keep cranking it. You'll wipe all the oil from the rotating assembly.
1800-2000RPM for a solid 15 minutes.
Delo400 in the crankcase and change it immediately after break-in.
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Year: 1994
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Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
also make sure you use conventional oil, non synthetic, due to the lubrication of new parts. the synthetic is to "slippery" and will not wear in the cam properly. after my cam sway (trans am) then i changed the oil after 100 miles. it was dirty as hell and was brand new. if you have some ZDDP (zinc and phospherous) additive, i would suggest throwing it in there, the zinc will protect the motor as it breaks in. or you could use VR-1 racing oil, the non street legal stuff. since you wont be getting a smog while you change your cam, you will be fine
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#10
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Year: 1992
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My machine shop guy provided me with some Joe Gibbs Break In Oil.....supposed to have lots of Zinc and Phosphorous in it. Anyone have any experience with Joe Gibbs Break In Oil?
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I'm not a fan of oil additives, except now with the guberment taking away ZDDP from our conventional oils. Another source of zinc is STP. Half a pint per oil change will give the necessary level to ensure our lobes have bumps.
So what cam/spec are you using?
So what cam/spec are you using?
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Year: 1992
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Stock cam.....only upgrades I did was hypereutectic pistons and changed over to the 4 hole fuel injectors. Its starting to look like an engine again finally!
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Year: 92 XJ (RIP)
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Joe Gibbs break in oil is highly recommended. I've seen it run for break in on 6-800 HP motors with no failures. Well not until N2O got applied in copious amounts.
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