buying a used cherokee 1998 with 169,000 miles
 

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...fbd6c6d61c.jpg
Hey Everyone,
i am considering a used Cherokee sport 1998 with 169k miles
it sounds like it needs spark plugs and a general tune up and once over. i have videos of the engine i'd like to send over just so someone with a mechanical ear can hear whats going on (which i believe is some misfire) it will cost $850 and im told it will not pass emissions due to an O2 sensor. is it worth while?

On a side note it has a ton of small problems(broken window motors, bad trunk lift, broken plastic and its generally seen better days

HOWEVER!
There is almost NO rust under it! seriously i had another Cherokee fanatic check it out, nothing on the floorboard, or the underbody!

however a **** ton of fluids appear to be leaking. see my photos for details!
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...799793a4c3.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...f3661bb985.jpg

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...d24e719e8d.jpg

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...4459c58a84.jpg

How much are you paying?

It's worth twice that. Jump on it.

Post the video on Youtube; link it here.

I would definitely grab that one up.

Heres a startup video cold start.

Slow cranking but battery could be low from sitting. All under the hood fluid levels good and clean? No smoke from the exhaust I could see. Check under the hood for any signs of the wiring being tampered with. Maybe even shoot us an under the hood pic? From what I can tell it looks like only oil leaking. Inside back tires and rims look dry so maybe no brake or axle seal leaks. Did you put her in gear? Electrics working(lights,turn signal,etc.)?For $850 I can't see how you'd go wrong.

At $850, you'll have a great running XJ, with a little basic maintenance and TLC on what sounds like common items. I'd buy that thing twice, LOL

In all seriousness, that XJ would go for close to $4k here. Stupid Kommiefornia, haha

ezer to fix oil than rust!!

I'd say it's a good deal, but you should know how to get the OBD-II codes when you go look at it, or go a second time to do it:

1.) Put key in ignition.
2.) Turn from OFF to ON, but do NOT start, 3-5 times (try 3 first), leaving in ON the third time (so it would go like this: OFF-ON, OFF-ON, ON).
3.) Codes will show up on odometer display, then display the word 'd0ne' once it's complete.

Then you can maybe find out what's wrong with the emissions system. My money's willing to bet that it's 'P0442', 'P0455', or 'P0456', as they're all evap codes relating to the emissions system, and that's what my Jeep had when I first bought it. I had the woman do the key switch for me and she texted me the codes. You HAVE to wait until the odo displays 'd0ne' BEFORE switching the key back to OFF, so that you have ALL of your codes. It's either that or buy a cheap code reader for $15 off of eBay (like I did).

169k is NOTHING for a 4.0, neither is 300k, so you have a long way to go as long as you do your regular tune ups and the obvious stuff (I have 137k on my '02 WJ Grand Cherokee 4.0). :)

If it runs and drives fine id buy it right now for that price.The oil leak and stuff to pass smog are cheaper then fixing rust or bigger pricey problems.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...107dc4c545.jpg

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...93784afeda.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.che...93af8abcf4.jpg

Under the hood, also drives okay I guess , 4x4 seems to work

Looks like a valve cover leak

Everything under the hood looks in tact. That inlet tube on the water pump is looking not so good. Buy it.

Judging by the mess around the airbox and power steering reservoir, I'm thinking high pressure PS hose is leaking. About $20 for the hose and an hour of your time. As another reply points out, the valve cover is leaking. Count on the oil filter housing o-rings leaking too. All inexpensive and pretty straightforward fixes.

How does the paint look dry?

When I was looking last summer, I'd have jumped on this one.

anybody aware of the state laws for buying a personal vehicle in ct? im wondering if i can get temp plates...

just answered my own question
http://ctemissions.com/test-procedur...ue-date-search

That is a decent price for my area as well. But I have had friends/relatives ask me about xj's they wanted to buy and I tell them number 1 thing is you better know how to or want to learn fix things yourself. Tack on mechanics labor charges to fix all the little stuff and you may end up way upside down versus real value.

First thing if you buy is to degrease and power wash that oil off and fix leaks. Remember that the TPS does not like water so remove or protect when cleaning motor.

Okay anybody have related tutorials they can send to me for each item? does anyone have any luck with leak stopper fluids from your typical auto parts store
from my understanding a lot of those products work ONLY if the leak is small enough, but can slow down large leaks.

any recommended products to de-grease?

i've never done spark plugs myself, not sure if its difficult on this model, but its from '98 so i cant imagine i need much.

Do not use any leaking stopping BS. Fix it right. Valve cover is not hard to do, spark plugs even easier. Youtube and this site is your friend.

Valve cover gasket


Spark plugs

No on the "magic in the bottle" leak stoppers, cause more problems in the long run.

No fancy spark plugs needed, OEM Champion or NGK seems to be the consensus around here. Taylor makes some top notch plug wires for a decent price, Amazon is where I get mine.

Around here we have the do it yourself car wash and generally one bay is for motor cleaning and will have some dispenser for degreaser. I use Orange citrus cleaner made by Zep from Home Depot and my own pressure washer at home. Keep the water away from the TPS sensor.

Hey guys so let me ask..
other than valve cover gasket, spark plugs and an o2 sensor, what else could cause this vehicle to fail emissions?

since you all debunked the magic sealer fluids i have another question regarding these magic fluids...

i've seen in some stores they have some products that "guarenteed to pass" emissions, is this legit or just some bull**** that might help if you are like 1% below the passing level?

I have more experience getting carbed rigs past emissions test, but the 1 time my xj failed by a nut hair I just used Heet in yellow bottle from my bag of tricks for carbed motors. Heet is basically alcohol. That time I had a 1/4 tank of gas and added the whole bottle and ran it down the freeway 10 miles and retested, passed easily. It helps to have the motor good and hot right off the freeway then into test. If you have to idle for 30 minutes in line waiting to test, like we used to have to do here, rev it up once every few minutes.

With that said, plugs, cap n rotor, and wires and o2 then run test before trying other things.

As far as finding what's causing the failed emissions problem. Is the check engine light on? If it is or isn't you should get the diagnostic system (OBDII) checked for any tripped codes. I'd try do this first before buying parts. Although a set of plugs would be ok (NGK ZFR5N).

You have two O2 sensors. One (upstream NGK/NTK 23151)at the inlet to the catalytic converter and one at the outlet (downstream NGK/NTK 23099). Check their wire harnesses for any damages. Chances are the O2 sensors need replaced but I'd like to see what codes you get first if possible.

Who owns the XJ in the background? You? Friend? Seller?

A friend who's helping out

Good! That'll make things a lot easier for you.

As others have said, step 1 is to pull codes. I'm of the opinion that replacing the O2 sensors will fix the emissions issues completely and allow you to register it.

Will this be your only vehicle?

This will be a 2nd car, as the primary vehicle is being destroyed by a puppy and its new.... :bangin:

Failed emissions could be O2 sensors, TPS, MAP, fuel pressure, cap and rotor, cat, wiring, engine condition, etc.. Any one, or a combination of can do it. Heres a spark plug chart.

Attachment 303398

Allright everyone I am taking this vehicle today I will upload more vids/pics

Cool. If you didn't buy it I was about to try and find out where it was so I could. LOL. For real though for that price I couldn't pass it up. Here in CT they usually start at $500 for one in rough shape that may or may not be driveable. $1000 will get you a driveable beater with higher mileage usually. Nice score.

PURCHASED!! Posting codes later today. Looks like you can register the vehicle but have 30 days to pass emissions so yeah

ok guys, so heres what i have so far

1. definite power steering leak
2. valve cover gasket DEFINITELY blown
3. oil change well overdue
4. battery needs replacement
5. misc door pieces missing nothing critical, power locks work 3/4 windows work
1/4 speakers working
6. the sway bar link is completely disintegrated. its just work the **** out.
i found $0.02, full can of wd-40, ac recharge can, spare tire,

looking for diagnostic codes....
more to come!


**UPDATE**


So the ignition wont spit out the codes BUT
i have the last emissions test DTC readings:

DTC#1 P0135 o2 sensor heater circuit bank 1 sensor 1
DTC#2 P0301 Cylinder 1 misfire
DTC#3 P0138 o2 sensor circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2

Update on this
Parts ordered:
6 x champion spark plugs(wires looked okay)
1 valve cover gasket
1 upstream o2 sensor
1 down stream o2 sensor
1 spark plug gapper

Cost so far $103.63

I would get wires anyway

Does anybody have thoughts on going synthetic on its next oil change? i feel mixed about it since the car is so old...

Many people swear by Rotella T6 5w40. I prefer DINO Oil. Preference at this point, I wouldn't though if you already leaking a lot, if not, Rotella is a good choice or DELO.

ok so if i go to wally world. i want to do a basic change and maybe add something like
"restore engine restorer"
as well as conventional, obviously don't buy el cheapo oil, at least a brand name like mobile

10w-30 right? whatever the manual says, it gets pretty hot around here in the summer

Don't add any additives. Most important is the filter. Go to NAPA and get their Gold filter. Might as well get their brand of oil to. 10w30's fine.

wix is a perfectly good option for filter as well if no Napa around like for me

Sounds like he may do Walmart. Not sure what DECENT filters they carry if any so I figure NAPA.