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i did rotella t4 10/40 for summer
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i got an OBD II scanner heres what it found
P0455 P1281 P0320 P0138 P0301 P0135 i knew about the first 3 but the others??? thoughts? |
Update!
Hey guys, just updating you with the latest info, i did a full oil change(what a mess, the oil was practically gel goop) I changed ALL the spark plugs(gapped .035), i found that the misfire was being caused by one bad motherfuking plug that was totally rusted out. needless to say i ran a reset and re-tested for misfires, and the condition has not re-appeared. i cleaned out the machine with seafoam and it made a huge difference on how it idles it used to be 900 ish now its down around 6-700 range! definitely runs like a pro now, it sounds like my old 2000 wrangler. i'm going to give it a rest for now and do the gasket and o2's tomorrow i got plenty of videos ! you can really see how the engine wakes up after all this! |
I'm not a big fan of the post 96 body and interior changes but that is a DAMNED GOOD DEAL.
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
(Post 3396279)
Sounds like he may do Walmart. Not sure what DECENT filters they carry if any so I figure NAPA.
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Originally Posted by EZEARL
(Post 3393451)
Everything under the hood looks in tact. That inlet tube on the water pump is looking not so good. Buy it.
its definitely enough for me to drive, ill replace the tube, and get the damn thing registered :cheers: after a new battery, plugs, oil, air filter, seafoam, the engine sounds good BUT i also found the major malfunction with the sensors was a fuse (15A) theres this issue with the engine/tranny where the engine will start making a thump when parked, but if you give it power in Drive or reverse the thumping kinda goes away. any idea what this might be? |
Good luck getting that inlet tube out of the water pump. I couldn't remove mine even with the water pump out of the vehicle.
By the way instead of using an inlet tube I used a brass fitting (5/8" hose barbed X 3/8" MNPT). So IF you do get yours out this fitting is easier to install. |
Originally Posted by EZEARL
(Post 3397618)
Good luck getting that inlet tube out of the water pump. I couldn't remove mine even with the water pump out of the vehicle.
By the way instead of using an inlet tube I used a brass fitting (5/8" hose barbed X 3/8" MNPT). So IF you do get yours out this fitting is easier to install. i have brass and hose in my spare box! |
Sorry. I should have been more specific. I didn't remove the pump just in order to remove the tube. I was redoing my cooling system. The old pump especially the impeller was in good shape so I was going to keep it as a back up. Didn't happen though.
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Hey Everyone,
Thank you for all your help, this car is finally operational! its a blast! even the remote lock function works! |
VERY good.
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Good on you!
98 was maybe the best year they made. I love my 97 - it has the better engine but it was before they started putting cheap heads and axles in. My 97 also has the non-abs brakes, bigger rear axle, etc. Only reason 98 might be better is because it's a little more stable and less wiring revisions. Oh and 169,000 miles is nothing. Mine has 246,000 miles and I fully intend on getting it to 300,000. |
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND replacing the coolant and flushing the cooling system. After 5 or so years the coolant goes south and allows our all-iron blocks and heads to rust from the inside. Once it's rusted, the cooling system's ability to shed heat from the motor is greatly reduced.
That is why I say, if you have to repair the heater hose inlet tube on the water pump, just replace the whole water pump. You may find that the propeller blades on the pump are eroded away which is somewhat common. If you don't want to take the water pump off to replace the heater hose inlet tube (took me about 4 hours to replace my water pump, you have to remove the power steering and serpentine belt), you could first cut the bend off so that you can actually turn it counter clockwise with a 17mm wrench. Then thread on a male NPT fitting and you'll need a longer heater hose to make the extra length. One last thing: check if the heater works. If it doesn't work then it's clogged and not only do you need to unclog it by reverse flushing through the heater core hoses, but it's also a sign that you need to flush the coolant. I recommend using the Blue Devil Radiator Flush product. You can also remove the thermostat to peak into the head's coolant passages and look for rust and scale build up. Replace the thermostat with only a 195* Stant Superstat |
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