"Bump" when shifting to Drive
04-27-2015, 06:29 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
"Bump" when shifting to Drive
OK, Just bought a '97 Cherokee with 194K on it.
It didn't do this when I test-drove it. Now, when I shift from park to drive, it gives a bump (sometimes no bump, sometimes minor bump, sometimes moderate bump).
What do you think? How bad is it?
It didn't do this when I test-drove it. Now, when I shift from park to drive, it gives a bump (sometimes no bump, sometimes minor bump, sometimes moderate bump).
What do you think? How bad is it?
04-27-2015, 07:16 PM
#4
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Thread Starter
Do ya'll think that is a "fix right away" or "let it ride" kind of thing?
I'm planning on driving from Austin, TX to California soon.
Thanks!
I'm planning on driving from Austin, TX to California soon.
Thanks!
04-27-2015, 07:42 PM
#6
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Do some "noggin pokin" on your end before asking us if it's okay to drive a long distance.
04-27-2015, 08:01 PM
#7
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Eh, well, my noggin' thinks its probably ok to drive it since it seems to run like a champ otherwise, and I have a good mechanic in CA.
I just wanted to get the more knowledgeable opinions here. U-Joint sounds plausible, since my '06 commander had a similar issue and it turned out to be that.
I'm not highly mechanical myself, just a lover of Jeeps.
Maybe I'll swing by Prescott on my way and you can take a look
I just wanted to get the more knowledgeable opinions here. U-Joint sounds plausible, since my '06 commander had a similar issue and it turned out to be that.
I'm not highly mechanical myself, just a lover of Jeeps.
Maybe I'll swing by Prescott on my way and you can take a look
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04-27-2015, 10:58 PM
#8
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Join Date: Aug 2011
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
Eh, well, my noggin' thinks its probably ok to drive it since it seems to run like a champ otherwise, and I have a good mechanic in CA.
I just wanted to get the more knowledgeable opinions here. U-Joint sounds plausible, since my '06 commander had a similar issue and it turned out to be that.
I'm not highly mechanical myself, just a lover of Jeeps.
Maybe I'll swing by Prescott on my way and you can take a look
I just wanted to get the more knowledgeable opinions here. U-Joint sounds plausible, since my '06 commander had a similar issue and it turned out to be that.
I'm not highly mechanical myself, just a lover of Jeeps.
Maybe I'll swing by Prescott on my way and you can take a look
Gonna have all the drive train fluids checked and topped off before you take off? Any other inspections done before starting out on a trip like that?
Lots of desert between there and Komifornia.
04-28-2015, 08:55 AM
#9
::CF Administrator::
So...let me get this straight.
You JUST bought it. It's already telling you it needs attention. And, you want to make a cross-country trip in it, and "call it good"?
Hope you have AAA.
I would address the issues you have BEFORE you go. Have it inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic. At the very least, address the clunking issue, and change all the fluids. I would be looking HARD at the cooling system and all hoses. A tune up would be a good idea.
Cruiser's right on here. LOTS of desert between there and here. I made the trip from DFW to SoCal a couple years back. NO WAY would I want to be stranded out in the middle of nowhere. If you choose to "call it good", at the very least, take lots of food and water with you. And maybe a deck of cards to kill time while you're waiting on the side of the road to get rescued.
You JUST bought it. It's already telling you it needs attention. And, you want to make a cross-country trip in it, and "call it good"?
Hope you have AAA.
I would address the issues you have BEFORE you go. Have it inspected by a knowledgeable mechanic. At the very least, address the clunking issue, and change all the fluids. I would be looking HARD at the cooling system and all hoses. A tune up would be a good idea.
Cruiser's right on here. LOTS of desert between there and here. I made the trip from DFW to SoCal a couple years back. NO WAY would I want to be stranded out in the middle of nowhere. If you choose to "call it good", at the very least, take lots of food and water with you. And maybe a deck of cards to kill time while you're waiting on the side of the road to get rescued.
04-28-2015, 06:00 PM
#11
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Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I6
Try a transmission throttle valve cable adjustment.
It's a 60 second fix for that judder shifting from park or neutral to drive or reverse. It just takes the slack out of the old cable by resetting the ratchet.
I have to do it fairly regularly.
It's a 60 second fix for that judder shifting from park or neutral to drive or reverse. It just takes the slack out of the old cable by resetting the ratchet.
I have to do it fairly regularly.
04-28-2015, 08:38 PM
#12
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I have the same thing with my 98, but mine is very BAD. I have to slowly shift from P to N then to D or I will get a huge CLUNK and the jeep will lurch a little forward.
How hard is it to replace the spider gears? I would love to get rid of that clunk!
How hard is it to replace the spider gears? I would love to get rid of that clunk!
04-28-2015, 08:49 PM
#13
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Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
If you park on a hill or incline it can put stress on the drivetrain. I just apply the e-brake before taking it out of gear to put in park. Shift out before you release e-brake. Not sure if I'm just masking a problem but it works for me.
05-03-2015, 05:46 PM
#14
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Thread Starter
The funny thing is I just took the white beauty to Jeep Masters here in Austin because, get this, it failed inspection because - the Check Engine light conveniently does not work.
And its throwing codes that fail inspection:
"P0138: 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 SEnsor2)"
"P0441: Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow"
Which turned out to be around $450 to fix - the purge solenoid was installed backwards - nice - replaced the o2 sensor. Also did the rear brakes while I was at it (grand total $837). Jeep Masters verified the check engine bulb had just burnt out - no sabotage
They recommended about $1400 of additional work: side axle u-joint, service front+rear diff, service transfer case, service/replace cooling system hoses, alignment, replace steering stabilizer.
All of which seems a touch aggressive to me but that's their business.
The funny thing is, the main thing I asked them about was the clunk. After all the excitement, I finally realized nothing in that list is responsible for the clunk.
Darnit.
And its throwing codes that fail inspection:
"P0138: 02 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1 SEnsor2)"
"P0441: Evaporative Emission Control System Incorrect Purge Flow"
Which turned out to be around $450 to fix - the purge solenoid was installed backwards - nice - replaced the o2 sensor. Also did the rear brakes while I was at it (grand total $837). Jeep Masters verified the check engine bulb had just burnt out - no sabotage
They recommended about $1400 of additional work: side axle u-joint, service front+rear diff, service transfer case, service/replace cooling system hoses, alignment, replace steering stabilizer.
All of which seems a touch aggressive to me but that's their business.
The funny thing is, the main thing I asked them about was the clunk. After all the excitement, I finally realized nothing in that list is responsible for the clunk.
Darnit.
