Broken trac bar bolt
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 404
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
https://www.boltdepot.com/fastener-i...ade-chart.aspx
Take a look at this chart. I'd prefer a grade 8 over a metric class 10.9
Take a look at this chart. I'd prefer a grade 8 over a metric class 10.9
The chart states Grade 8 bolts have minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi. Grade 10.9 states 1,040 MPa which is 150,839 psi. Similar for proof load and yield strength. Grade 8 might have more carbon in it though.
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Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 2,208
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From: Ocean County, NJ
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
They're nearly identical from a mechanical properties standpoint, according to that chart. The SAE one is in psi and the Metric one is in MPa.
The chart states Grade 8 bolts have minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi. Grade 10.9 states 1,040 MPa which is 150,839 psi. Similar for proof load and yield strength. Grade 8 might have more carbon in it though.
The chart states Grade 8 bolts have minimum tensile strength of 150,000 psi. Grade 10.9 states 1,040 MPa which is 150,839 psi. Similar for proof load and yield strength. Grade 8 might have more carbon in it though.
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
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From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Thanks for the chart, and for pointing out the mpa and psi rating differences. now I am ok with my 10.9.
To the OP, you might want to check the big tie rod end, the big one with the two holes for the center link and the steering damper, aka drag link end, ..that one part caused me more misdiagnosing than all others combined. Hard to detect it being loose and oh how it tightens up the steering. Holds the road like a railroad track now.
To the OP, you might want to check the big tie rod end, the big one with the two holes for the center link and the steering damper, aka drag link end, ..that one part caused me more misdiagnosing than all others combined. Hard to detect it being loose and oh how it tightens up the steering. Holds the road like a railroad track now.
Thread Starter
Seasoned Member
Joined: Aug 2015
Posts: 404
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Thanks for the chart, and for pointing out the mpa and psi rating differences. now I am ok with my 10.9.
To the OP, you might want to check the big tie rod end, the big one with the two holes for the center link and the steering damper, aka drag link end, ..that one part caused me more misdiagnosing than all others combined. Hard to detect it being loose and oh how it tightens up the steering. Holds the road like a railroad track now.
To the OP, you might want to check the big tie rod end, the big one with the two holes for the center link and the steering damper, aka drag link end, ..that one part caused me more misdiagnosing than all others combined. Hard to detect it being loose and oh how it tightens up the steering. Holds the road like a railroad track now.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I'm glad you called that out, for whatever reason that part is loose on mine. The tie rod on the end looks pretty shot and is easy to move, and the adjusting sleeve itself that clamps the tie rod to the drag link is lose. Thinking about replacing the tie rod and the sleeve's clamp bolts.

The drag link is still the same as the XJ but I think you'll decide not to fight that adjustment sleeve when you see it takes Andre the Giant's strength to move break the rust bond.
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Ah well. Get the ZJ tie rod anyway
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Joined: Aug 2015
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From: New Jersey
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I actually just replaced the input shaft seal on the steering box, and noticed the steering wheel is way off center (it probably has been for a while). Is it right that you can get it back straight by moving the adjustment sleeve on the drag link further up or down?
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Joined: Nov 2013
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From: Jax, FL
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Haha yep I'm talking about the drag link one. I'll probably end up doing the ZJ upgrade when my other tie rods start leaking.
I actually just replaced the input shaft seal on the steering box, and noticed the steering wheel is way off center (it probably has been for a while). Is it right that you can get it back straight by moving the adjustment sleeve on the drag link further up or down?
I actually just replaced the input shaft seal on the steering box, and noticed the steering wheel is way off center (it probably has been for a while). Is it right that you can get it back straight by moving the adjustment sleeve on the drag link further up or down?
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Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 2,856
Likes: 201
From: syracuse ny
Year: 1997
Model: Grand Cherokee (ZJ)
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Yep I did the one on the pitman side first, big mistake. Should have just dropped the thing out first and replaced them both. Ebay has some truly great parts and prices which is where I went. You can actually buy a whole set of ends for less than cost of the big one at the stores. Plus, if you do it that way, you might avoid ripping the muscle in your elbow turning the old parts out under the car for 30 or so turns like I did. Once they are loose the adjustment is easy as pie, turns with fingertips and not even jacking the car because the steering wheel just turns.. The old adjusting sleeve was fine on mine.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; Nov 8, 2016 at 01:54 PM.
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