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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
I was going about replacing the trac bar on my 2000 XJ, but ended up snapping the bolt head right off.
I tried using a punch to tap the remainder of the bolt out of the track bar bushings so I can get it out of the bracket, but it won't budge. Is the nut welded on the other side or something?
The only way I see of removing it at the moment is a cutoff wheel between the bracket and trac bar to cut the other side of the bolt off. I'll try and take a picture of what I'm talking about.
I was going about replacing the trac bar on my 2000 XJ, but ended up snapping the bolt head right off.
I tried using a punch to tap the remainder of the bolt out of the track bar bushings so I can get it out of the bracket, but it won't budge. Is the nut welded on the other side or something?
The only way I see of removing it at the moment is a cutoff wheel between the bracket and trac bar to cut the other side of the bolt off. I'll try and take a picture of what I'm talking about.
Thanks
Yeah man snap a pic. Because on one side of the trackbar, there is a nut that holds the bolt but can be easily seen so you must not be talking about that side. I just can't quite picture the other side right now and I'm not on my jeep
I was going about replacing the trac bar on my 2000 XJ, but ended up snapping the bolt head right off.
I tried using a punch to tap the remainder of the bolt out of the track bar bushings so I can get it out of the bracket, but it won't budge. Is the nut welded on the other side or something?
The only way I see of removing it at the moment is a cutoff wheel between the bracket and trac bar to cut the other side of the bolt off. I'll try and take a picture of what I'm talking about.
Thanks
If you are talking about the track bar attachment at the axle, there's a flag nut under the fitting welded to the axle housing. See pics.
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Side view:
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The flag nut is part number 6506264AA, and the bolt is part number 6505549AA. Both should be available at the dealer.
Thanks guys, yes I am talking about where it attaches to the axle housing. I snapped off the bolt head, but the shank is still in the bushing and the flag nut hasn't moved. Maybe the bolt has fused with rust to the bushing?
Here's where I am:
Pic of the bolt head broken off, here's what I'm left with.
Bottom of the flag nut sticking out
I tried tapping what's left of the bolt with a punch and hammer but it won't budge. It should just pop out the other side along with the flag nut right? If I can't get it to come out, I guess I'll have to break out the cutting wheel or sawzall.
Yep! Right in between the bracket and the TB bushing like you said before. TB will drop right out, then you have to get the flag nut out. Should come out easy if it isn't "rust welded" in place.
Is the frame side disconnected already? I only mention this because the lateral pressure of a connected track bar certainly doesn't help when removing the bolt from the axle side.
Lube the blade and take your time otherwise you're going to end up with a butter knife pretty quickly on your saw lol. The rubber bushing can cause your blade to heat up insanely fast.
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
Originally Posted by t.mcginley.jr
So sawzall it is! Pretty sure the bolt is rust welded into the bushing, no saving it.
Yes the frame side is already disconnected, I couldn't get the nut off the ball joint end of the trac bar so I just dropped the whole bracket.
Done this job 3x now on 2 vehicles, had to drop the bracket every time. Hey at least you get to torque it right when done.
A good spotlight type flashlight is very useful to make sure you are not wasting your blade.
Beware though, every time Ive done it, ended up dropping it again to upgrade the aftermarket bushing with a Moog polycarbonite or similar, and you have to burn out the old one. It is a chore but short of going with modified track bar, its the next best thing and well worth the stability
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 11-03-2016 at 07:15 AM.
Thanks guys! Got it out yesterday, used a cutting wheel instead of a sawzall but it worked just as well. I had to grind a little off the flag nut to get it out of the axle bracket but it's all out. Not sure if the flag nut will actually be reusable, the remainder of the bolt is rusted in there pretty good. Any harm putting a regular nut and lock washer on there?
I actually had to cut the ball joint end of the trac bar out of it's bracket too. The nut was basically rusted solid to the trac bar. Replacing the whole bar with a new Moog one
Engine: 4.0, new lifters valve job with new springs and exhaust valves, preload set with shims
There are those that make a strong case for going to the dealer for the bolt and flag nut. Myself I have had good luck with the home depot metric grade 10 bolts, washer and lockwashers. However metallurgy is not my specialty. You sure wouldn't want to just stuff some old bolt in there not even sure of the hardness etc.
Last edited by 97grand4.0; 11-07-2016 at 02:16 PM.
There are those that make a strong case for going to the dealer for the bolt and flag nut. Myself I have had good luck with the home depot metric grade 10 bolts, washer and lockwashers. However metallurgy is not my specialty. You sure wouldn't want to just stuff some old bolt in there not even sure of the hardness etc.
Thanks that's what I was thinking. I went and got a grade 10.9 M10 bolt, lock washer and nut from Home Depot. I can't see the OEM bolt being any stronger, plus the flag nut is just to make it easier to install/remove since you can't really get a wrench up in there. If I had more time or motivation I might have made my own flag nut
10-31-2016, 08:36 AM
Broken trac bar bolt
