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Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Dark Hart.....Just don't doubt that it can seem impossibly, insanely difficult for any of us. Gotta wrestle that b to the mat, maybe a tougher match than a Toyota or Chevy. Jeep just didn't make it easy, it's true. Eventually your three steps forward will win out over the knocks of two steps back. The result is one tough SOB in the end. (Both of you!)
And yea,I bet that belt routing in Pat's #29 is it, tensioned with the PS pump held with hidden bolts.(Idler pulley has the same bearing as almost any Delco alternator)
Last edited by DFlintstone; 03-23-2019 at 01:10 AM.
That's how my 95 is routed. I'm pretty sure it's the same across many years.
DrkHrt - you can totally remove the driveshafts until the engine and tranny are in place and put them back on after. As far as the front shaft - I have no idea if it's fixable being separated as it is, but the good news is that you can remove the front shaft and still drive it in 2wd without it being an issue. (On the older XJ's, the same is not true for the inverse - if you don't have a rear shaft, the transfer case will leak ATF around the output shaft.)
I don't have any experience mating an auto tranny to the block, but I did 2 clutches on manual trannys using both a jack mounted transmission jack and a fully dedicated floor jack style transmission jack. I had hoped the fully dedicated style would make mating the tranny to the engine easier --- it did not. It was still way more of a PITA than it sounds on paper.
You were right about all of this. It was definitely a PITA.
I think the torque converter should slide forward easily. The smaller solenoid wire to the starter may well be green. (also it should get juice when you turn the key to start). X2 on the screwdriver through the filter. It just may help to slowly pour a pot of boiling water over it first? IDK
Righto. The TC slid forward easily. But I had to use a longer bolt to pull it into place.
Starter related wiring: one large diameter red cable goes directly from the battery to the starter. Another large diameter red wire goes from the battery to the fuse block on the fender.
One large diameter black cable goes from the battery to the engine block ground point below and between spark plugs 5 & 6 at the rear of the engine. In your photo it looks like that wire is attached to the block. Another smaller black wire should go from the battery to the fender near the corner of the battery. A small diameter wire goes from the starter solenoid into the wire harness near the oil filter.
At the driver side rear of the engine there should be a braided ground strap that goes from a head bolt (I believe it is #14) to a stud on the firewall. The ring terminal goes over the head bolt and a nut (I believe a 15mm socket fits it) goes on to secure it. It is important for a properly running engine and other electrical components that all the grounds are in place and making good contact. Lightly clean the mating surfaces with sandpaper or a wire brush. The AutoZone web site repair guide section has a nice collection of electrical schematics. Figure 33 should apply to your 1992 Jeep. https://www.autozone.com/repairinfo/...0c152800a9de9#
Dark Hart.....Just don't doubt that it can seem impossibly, insanely difficult for any of us. Gotta wrestle that b to the mat, maybe a tougher match than a Toyota or Chevy. Jeep just didn't make it easy, it's true. Eventually your three steps forward will win out over the knocks of two steps back. The result is one tough SOB in the end. (Both of you!)
And yea,I bet that belt routing in Pat's #29 is it, tensioned with the PS pump held with hidden bolts.(Idler pulley has the same bearing as almost any Delco alternator)
Reading this really is keeping me motivated. Thanks.
Sorry It took me so long to get back to you guys, it was really rainy and i didnt get too much time under the shade tree.
OK!!! So, I've got everything back in the car and reconnected except for my exhaust. Dont really have enough money for a new catalytic converter right now lol. But hey, progress is being made. The Car turns when I manually engage the starter while the car is in neutral so that's a plus I guess. I'm not sure why It wont crank when I use the key but I'm sure you guys might be able to help me troubleshoot that.
I also pulled the spark plugs for first time today. I should have done it way sooner. All of the plugs were blackened by a thin layer of carbon that easily wiped off on my fingertips. This worried me a bit but i dont want to get into a full engine teardown at this point. Sheesh.
Where are you now? P.S. you can get the engine installed and tested before installing the transmission.
Bag and label the bags with the bolts contained in them. It looks like you have made a fair bit of progress. Do you have a diagram for the vacuum/emission hoses yet? Do you have a diagram for electrical starting yet?
A screw driver thru the body of the filter or a cold metal chisel and hammer on the rim by the adapter should release the filter.
That broken crankcase ventilation orifice doesn't need to be repaired till the engine is starting.
--- You almost need a web-site. It is too difficult to track everything in a forum.
Where are you now? P.S. you can get the engine installed and tested before installing the transmission.
Bag and label the bags with the bolts contained in them. It looks like you have made a fair bit of progress. Do you have a diagram for the vacuum/emission hoses yet? Do you have a diagram for electrical starting yet?
A screw driver thru the body of the filter or a cold metal chisel and hammer on the rim by the adapter should release the filter.
That broken crankcase ventilation orifice doesn't need to be repaired till the engine is starting.
--- You almost need a web-site. It is too difficult to track everything in a forum.
Where are you now?
I Have all of the critical components bolted up and now I'm just trying to get it started under its own power.
Do you have a diagram for the vacuum/emission hoses yet?
I went back to the yard and found another doner for the vacuum lines and those are in place.
Do you have a diagram for electrical starting yet?
Not Really, but I did go back to the yard and Figured out where the wires were supposed to go. I do have a Multimeter so I can test the connections. I just need to know which ones to test and where.
Yeah The forum isnt the best way to organize this information but I have received a lot of valuable information and support so I'm definitely grateful.
Have you tried to start it?
If you need a diagram, then I can try to find it and share a link to the image. When you try to start it I have a recommendation for you. Pour a teaspoon of gasoline into each combustion chamber thru the spark plug holes. It'll start with just decent compression and adequate spark. I'll help on a vehicle that has spark, fuel, and compression that hasn't run in a while. I prefer it to starting fluid and it is so easy to do on these engines.
Nice to hear about the progress. Good job getting things bolted together.
To help ensure the ignition key has a chance make sure that the small wire to the starter solenoid is in place.
Before you spend too much effort trying to get it started you might take a look at the old oil and the filter if you can cut it open. We hope not to see metal flakes that look like glitter. Then get clean oil in there. You can use low cost oil and filter for an initial run, then if you want change to something better after things are running for a while and the oil cleans up any crud.
Spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid into the throttle body intake while cranking is helpful in getting an initial cylinder or two to fire and is easier than putting gas into the spark plug holes. In any case don't overdo it as raw gas/starting fluid/carb cleaner will tend to wash lubricating oil off the cylinder walls and cause unnecessary wear.
I anticipate some challenges yet in getting it started the first time but hang in there.
Nice to hear about the progress. Good job getting things bolted together.
To help ensure the ignition key has a chance make sure that the small wire to the starter solenoid is in place.
Before you spend too much effort trying to get it started you might take a look at the old oil and the filter if you can cut it open. We hope not to see metal flakes that look like glitter. Then get clean oil in there. You can use low cost oil and filter for an initial run, then if you want change to something better after things are running for a while and the oil cleans up any crud.
Spraying carb cleaner or starting fluid into the throttle body intake while cranking is helpful in getting an initial cylinder or two to fire and is easier than putting gas into the spark plug holes. In any case don't overdo it as raw gas/starting fluid/carb cleaner will tend to wash lubricating oil off the cylinder walls and cause unnecessary wear.
I anticipate some challenges yet in getting it started the first time but hang in there.
If he has already installed the engine, then I don't think that looking for metal shavings in the filter is good timing. That seems like a prior to buying the engine thing. At this point I would think that gauging compression is more appropriate. I can't imagine that he'd change his course of action provided that there are or are not shavings present in the filter. Also, since he'll for sure be creating shavings it seems like even less of practical thing to do with an engine connected.
Reading this really is keeping me motivated. Thanks.
I've been in those "Trenches" Wrenching can and does test a Man's steel. (I bled allot more as a teenager!)
Originally Posted by third coast
You can use low cost oil and filter for an initial run, then if you want change to something better after things are running for a while and the oil cleans up .
Agreed, I've done that. My oil and filter goes about $40, where you might do your first run for around 1/2 that. I'm not "Dissing" Rotilla, (15-40, summer), but it's a more affordable choice than some.
Likewise unless it might freeze, run it with water till you see that it's holding OK, then you mix your 50/50 coolant. Don't risk having issues with the silly radiator drain, pull the lower hose.
03-23-2019, 12:53 AM
