Brake troubles
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
Brake troubles
I recently replaced my brakes, with drums in the rear and disk in the front. After bleeding the brakes I still have to use excess force on the brake pedal to get her to stop. Before I did the brakes everything was just fine, but now I'm stumped. Any ideas??
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
Also, I disconnected the abs system. I've removed all the abs fuses and relays along with the wiring. Could there be something else I'm missing??
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highlands Ranch Co.
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1985 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1996 6 cylinder Briggs & Stratton
Doesn't the ABS system require power bleeding because of the pump? Otherwise it's a pain to clear air from the system, especially if the lines have been opened.
#6
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
Trending Topics
#8
I have a 99 XJ that had ABS. I swapped over to an 8.25 eliminating the ABS. Removed the fuses and just cut the wiring, never touched the pump or the lines. Just did a rear disc conversion on it and didn't have any issues bleeding the brakes. Mine didn't need power to bleed them. I have heard those earlier 90's brake systems are a PITA though.
I'm wondering about 2 things here.
1. Are the pads and shoes seated correctly that you replaced? If something is not seated correctly and able to move it will give a harder pedal.
2. A brake booster is normally the culprit for a very hard pedal. Check the vacuum line going to it. I'm hoping you didn't over extend the rod off of the master cylinder into the booster and damage it by pressing the pedal too far to the floor.
I'm wondering about 2 things here.
1. Are the pads and shoes seated correctly that you replaced? If something is not seated correctly and able to move it will give a harder pedal.
2. A brake booster is normally the culprit for a very hard pedal. Check the vacuum line going to it. I'm hoping you didn't over extend the rod off of the master cylinder into the booster and damage it by pressing the pedal too far to the floor.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highlands Ranch Co.
Posts: 717
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1985 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1996 6 cylinder Briggs & Stratton
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
I have a 99 XJ that had ABS. I swapped over to an 8.25 eliminating the ABS. Removed the fuses and just cut the wiring, never touched the pump or the lines. Just did a rear disc conversion on it and didn't have any issues bleeding the brakes. Mine didn't need power to bleed them. I have heard those earlier 90's brake systems are a PITA though.
I'm wondering about 2 things here.
1. Are the pads and shoes seated correctly that you replaced? If something is not seated correctly and able to move it will give a harder pedal.
2. A brake booster is normally the culprit for a very hard pedal. Check the vacuum line going to it. I'm hoping you didn't over extend the rod off of the master cylinder into the booster and damage it by pressing the pedal too far to the floor.
I'm wondering about 2 things here.
1. Are the pads and shoes seated correctly that you replaced? If something is not seated correctly and able to move it will give a harder pedal.
2. A brake booster is normally the culprit for a very hard pedal. Check the vacuum line going to it. I'm hoping you didn't over extend the rod off of the master cylinder into the booster and damage it by pressing the pedal too far to the floor.
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
#12
CF Veteran
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: Wisconsin
Posts: 5,302
Likes: 0
Received 19 Likes
on
16 Posts
Model: Cherokee
that's the thing...if it's a Bendix system, there is no vacuum booster. It's a pump/accumulator setup that operates the ABS and provides power assist during normal braking. If that was disconnected....no power assist.
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
So what do I do to get the power back or to work around it to get my brakes back to normal??
#15
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Mt. Vernon Washington
Posts: 798
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L Renix and tube header
If it helps. I had this hard brake pedal problem before I pulled the fuse/relays.