Hey there,

I am changing all my rotors and pads, my 2006 Grand Cherokee Jeep has 125,000 miles on it, I have some questions:

1). Am I better off buying:

Power Stop Extreme Performance Drilled and Slotted Rotor (Front+Rear) ($240)+ WAGNER ThermoQuiet OE Replacement Ceramic Pads Front + Rear ($70)

or

Centric / Stop Tech SportStop XDrilled and Slotted Rotor (Front+Rear) ($285)+ WAGNER ThermoQuiet OE Replacement Ceramic Pads Front + Rear ($70)

or some other type of Rotors or Pads in a similar -/+ 30$ range?

2). What else would you change at the same time around the wheelbase? Hubs? Drums? Wheel Covers, Calipers, Caliper Wires?

3). Do I need to change the brake fluid or buy anything else to perform these changes? Any special lubes, etc?

Thank you!

 

As far as I'm concerned, unless you are doing high-performance driving (this is an XJ, right?) rotors are just personal preference. Get what you like. Wagner pads are fine.
Give the flex hoses to the calipers a good inspection too.
You don't need to add or change brake fluid as you won't be opening any hydraulic lines, but replacing it with a full flush every few years isn't a bad idea. Shouldn't need anything else except brake cleaner spray.

 

Until you get to high performance applications just get the el cheapos. If you bed the brakes properly upon installation you will get plenty of use out of them.

 

I went with the cheapest pads I found on Amazon, ~$20. Didn't replace the rotors, but I have less than half your 125K.

Assuming you have drums in the rear, they need adjusting. That made a huge difference in the pedal feel.

Combined I had excellent results.

BTW The Grand Cherokee forum would likely provide more specific info: https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f5/

 

Take a look at Rockauto.com I just order rotors pads drums hardware kit all for under 150$ good luck

 

Guys, I've made up my mind to buy these:

Centric Parts 120.58001 and 120.58002 Premium Brake Rotor with Black E-Coating


Now my problem is Amazon.com does not ship them to Canada, Rock Auto wants 185$ for shipping to Canada, and Summit Racing does not have them??????

What a dilemna!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Help!

I chose these because people say drilled and slotted are no point for a jeep and can crack sometimes around the drilled areas..........They are also double the price.

 

If your getting regular brake rotors go to your local auto parts store....

 

Just grab them from NAPA or Lordco, see if your local Jeep club has a discount code. You will be fine with any economy name brand rotor, wagner or centric are good options. I got a quote for around $50ea I think from Lordco.

Pay more for a oem equivalent brake pad (this is not the place to cheap out), so far I have had good luck with Wagner Thermo-quiet pads.

Drilled/Slotted is completely pointless for a Jeep, especially drilled. I cracked a set of drilled/slotted rotors on the track in my sports car, never again will I use them. Most guys out there will use blank rotors because they also don't chew up the very expensive race pads.

 

I would just like to recommend never buying from power stop. These were the replacements for my drum brakes in the rear of my 01 XJ. The welds were cracking and falling apart and the replacement springs and brackets in the complete replacement kit I received from them were sometimes bent the wrong way, cracked, or all around bad quality. I thought 120$ was a fair enough price for a rebuild kit of the rear brakes but next time I would rather pay more for high quality parts, especially on a part of my car as important as the brakes.

 

This thread was quite the dig. 5 years.

Get ahold of Powerstop. They need to see that pic. I have never dealt with that brand before, nor have i seen drums fail like that before.

 

whatever you decide,If you have to have to order pads and or rotors, always have a spare set handy.

 

Yeah the NTSB needs to see those pictures too. Aside, I just got 2 front rotors and set of ceramic pads from detroit axle for $58 total. First brake job in about 5 years too, like said above bed the pads in and it will last. Only reason changing is slight warpage causing drag and vibration/heat on the high way, can always tell when "Oh gosh my brake pedal is really nice and high and stiff" that you have a dragging caliper Lol.

Free shipping and 10 yr guarantee. Local part advance wants $60 for one rotor. Didn't even price the pads but ceramic pads? At least $30.

 

OReliey's has ceramic coated rotors (the area behind the wheel that you 'see'), and I've had great luck with them. Same low price. Ceramic pads I've used haven't been great, increased the stopping distance, but maybe it was the couple pads I tried ....go with what your vehicle calls for.

Brake fluid: It wouldn't hurt to replace your vehicle's fluid, because brake fluid is designed to absorb moisture. Mfgrs suggest to change it after about 3 years. Most people never do. Over the years it can get to the point where it can't hold a lot more moisture and eventually corrodes calipers and cylinders ..lines too, from the inside out. Replacing fluid can eliminate those issues. New fluid is clear, but it doesn't take long to get a sort of tea color. If your fluid looks like dark beer, then it's absorbed a lot of moisture and should be changed. How quick that happens also depends the climate you live in too. If yours is very dark, it would be great to bleed it out (and you probably should). Make sure you NEVER run the reservoir low on new fluid as you are bleeding the old fluid out. It'll say on the reservoir cap what type to use.

Be aware that when bleeding, if you do ingest even a tiny bit of air into the system it'll affect the firmness of your brake pedal. It'll feel spongy. You'll need to have someone with a good scanner, (not a cheap dime-store scanner) to put the ABS pump through it's bleeding mode. In all honesty, a person should probably run it thorugh it's bleeding mode anyway during the bleeding process to get all the fluid out. You can take it to a dealer too, for that ...but they'll charge you for it. This summer I was replacing the fluid on our 03 Overland Jeep, and yes I stupidly got a small amount of air into the system. I have a Snap On scanner which I was able to run the pump through its bleeding process and that resolved it. Stupid me! I was trying not to do that ...but the new fluid is clear so it's kind of easier than one might think to miss the real level in the back. But most of the time I haven't had that happen. This was a rare occasion.

Brake heigyne is really important to get a good long-lasting brake job. A lot of shops ya take it to will just slap on new parts and send it out the door ...rotors wobbling and all. I don't like wobbly rotors. Take your time to make sure ALL the sliders are clean and well lubricated so the calipers float freely on their guides. If the wheel hub is rusted, clean off with a file till you get to the original tooling marks. Blow, brush or wash the rust and crud away. Clean off all pad sliding areas with a file too so they're super clean. You probably don't want to, but Permatex makes a special brake lube that works pretty well. It's kind of expensive but a nice product. Regular grease seems to dry out from the heat.

A good brake shop would check the runout on the rotors. I do too. I check EVERY SINGLE rotor with a dial indicator every time I install one. Usually you can get them to about .000 - .001" of runout. Anything more than .003 of run-out would be unexceptable to me ...you're likely to 'feel' chatter at the brake. Then mark it's position with a paint marker or whatever you have so you know it's orientation for the future. Lastly, put a thin application of anti-sieze on the hub and rotor back mating surfaces, and some on the studs and run them in/out. You don't want any anti-sieze or lubricant to get on the nut-to-wheel mating surface. That's where you DO want the friction.

On rear brakes make sure the parking brake is working properly.

Good luck!!
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Permatex-...SABEgL_SvD_BwE

 

Most of the older jeeps I have seen have a notch worn into the slide from the ears on the pads. After a while you get good at welding them up and grinding them down.

 

Ha ha ....yes you do!! Nice catch!

That's another critical item brake shops will just gloss over!! On a 2006 with 125k, though his probably aren't that bad, but worth inspecting ALL pad mating surfaces. That's EXACTLY why you want to make sure run -out is .000", to minimize that excessive wear. I've gotten really good taking a 9" grinding disc and with careful use, making those welded-up landing areas look newly-tooled again.