danmackvail1

Hello all,

So I replaced my front brake lines with extended RE ss lines. So i went through and bled the system....

The pedal before i beld the system was pretty firm didnt have the super spongy feel to it, now it is very spongy. Im sure i have air in the system. So i consulted the ole chiltons, they said to start at the furthest point away from the mc. I did that went through in succession from the passenger sider rear brake to the drivers side rear then the passneger side frnt then finally the drivers side frnt....

still spongy. so i thought i was doing something wrong with my mighty vac, went through the instructions and the mighty vac says that i should start at the closest point to the mc. So i have contradicting instructions on how/where to start the bleeding process.

any ways any suggestions would be great

thnx

Gee oh Dee

I've never used a beeder system, I've always used the buddy system, and I've always moved from the furthest caliper/drum and moved closer. The idea being that all the bubbles make their way out the master cylinder back, leaving no chance of air in the system. Since the MC is the highest point in the brake system, as long as that stays full it'll prevent air from entering as the fluid gets drained out.

notop46

X2^

If you have ABS, you could have a bubble trapped inside.

Avoid the vac system and use the buddy system. This way you get feedback after each wheel whether it is firmer or not.

n_a_i_w

when i did my lift i had to bleed the brakes on my own. i put a small mason jar under each bleeder valve. connected a hose to each bleeder valve and ran it into the jar. filled the jars bout half full of brake fiuld and made sure the lines where under the fliud level. opened all 4 bleeders a bit and slowly pumped the brakes. i stopped about every 10 pumps to check fliuld levels in mason jars ans booster. when the lines stop bubbleing i figured no more air. did it a few more times to be on the safe side. took me bout 30 minutes and worked great.

Gee oh Dee

Thats an awesome way to bleed brakes if you are all alone. The down side is that its hard to watch both jars and see how many bubbles are coming out, so it can be time consuming.

danmackvail1

alrite, got it figured too some point.

so i called the mighty vac company (lincoln). the tec suggested to put some grease around the bleeder nipple, where it meets the body on the threads to help seal. put the vac on and sure enough sealed. was able to draw all the air out and get steady flow (dirt n terrible little flakes) till it was clear. did all the brakes great flow nice fresh fluid all air out.

the pedal is still spongy tho... what should i do next??

thnx

freegdr

drive it spongy does not always mean no brakes and adjust up the rear brakes

Slugger

this, make sure your rear brakes are adjusted right. does your e-brake work?

Bustedknuckle

If you have a mighty vac I'm assuming you knew enough to keep an eye on the master level while bleeding.

I used my vac alot at work, as did everyone else in the shop, but for good measure we'd always 2 man a final quick bleed job, just good habit.

danmackvail1

e brake is a bit weak as well, what is a good tension for the e brake (how far should i have to pull it up). the rear brakes can be adjusted through the little oval hole on the bottom rite (has the rubber boot on it), do i really need a spoon to do this? or will a flat head work?

thnx again this is all really helpful!

danmackvail1

oh i defiantly kept n eye on the master level, each brake go and check n refill. the vac works so well (now that i know how to use it!)

danmackvail1

After adjusting rear brakes and e brake all is where it needs to be, pedal is rite on. Thnx all

DesertFox4x4

sometimes the vac bleed systems will actually pull air into the system. we use them at my work and i have had that problem before. you can always try to gravity bleed them if your by yourself.

freegdr

DesertFox4x4

never mind didnt see that last post, my bad haha