Hey guys,


2001 Jeep Cherokee Sport
. Breaking is slow, takes longer than usual to slow down and won't stop on a dime because it's almost 15 years old and has probably had the brakes changed a few times since it's production. I purchased it this September with 235k miles and no engine issues. Slowly replacing things as I go.


Not sure when the last time it had a brake job/inspection so I'm gonna replace what should be replaced. My question to you is, what do you suggest replacing?


Rear drums & shoes and front pads and rotors? Just the shoes and pads? How long do these calipers last? Or the hub assembly? When's a good time to replace these things on these jeeps?


All opinions welcome


TY

 

Replace everything that needs replacing. clean up and reuse what is safe to do so.


We can't suggest much because we can't see what you are working with.


s

 

your booster is the dual diaphragm already, so if it's working properly (it would have a stiff pedal if not), then pull the calipers off the rotors and remove/replace the sliders. grease them up real good when you put them back. if the rubber boots are torn or deteriorated, replace the calipers.
replace the rotors and pads if they haven't been done in a while. you could always use a vernier caliper to check the thickness. replace anyways if they are scored.

same goes with the rear, replace the wheel cylinders, hardware, shoes and drums if you don't want to swap out to disc.

flush and replace brake fluid too.

 

Mine has 214,000. My brakes were nearly non existent when I got it. Changed the pads which had worn past the friction material long before I got it. Then I had issues with brakes not releasing so I had to fill the caliper braket with weld and grind it smooth where the pads had worn grooves. Still having issues with front though not as bad. In the rear I just did wheel cylinders and shoes. Cleaned up and reused hardware. The drums were filled with dried mud and gunk. Also had to replace the two lines on the axle. Good idea to bleed out the old fluid also. Mine stops pretty good now even Rollin on 35's. Not like slamming on the brakes accidentally because they work so good but not too bad.

 

All good suggestions.
If your soft lines have not been replaced,do so.
Measure the front rotors for thickness,if ok have them cut when replacing the pads.
Same for the rear. Check the drums and shoes. I would probably replace everything in the rear, including the wheel cylinders.
When greasing everything brake related,pay particular attention to cleaning and filing all pad riding surfaces on the front Cs. This is a bad sticking point for the front brakes.
Happened to me. There is a thread on the issue.

 

Not sure if you live (or the Jeep lived) in a rust-beld area with salty winter roadways, but mine did. Check the hard lines for rust, especially the long one going from the master cylinder to the rear axle (runs along the driver side frame rail with the fuel lines). Mine was badly rusted and needed to be replaced.

 

all good suggestions above, hopefully it helps you.
the next step would be checking the abs and power assist components, which i ended up replacing along with rebuilding the master cylinder.

everything works great now, its basically a total new system

 

First thing I would do is change all the soft lines .... flush the entire system, give it fresh brake fluid.

Road test and go from there.

 

Fluid is one of the most neglected parts of the braking system. Glad to see that changing/flushing it is suggested.

 

Might be an excellent time to do an rear ZJ disc brake upgrade much improved braking over stock and used kits can be bought here from a member "Big David". Very cost effective upgrade if your planning on going with all new on your old setup.

 

Everyone pretty much suggested it; fluid, check all lines, and the hard parts if still having problems.

I've got Centric Premium Rotors and Black Magic Pads for the 97.5+ d30 if you decide to change those out. They're listed in the FS section.

They were on for a couple months of DD before I parked the jeep to do wj swap and other things.

 

It's one of the first things I do when a vehicle is added here.

It also gives me the chance to do a visual on the brakes themselves.

Oh and it gets done every 36 moths, regardless of miles.

I've never had a brake line problem and I think that may be why.

 

It sure is.
My fluid in the master cylinder was brown from rust caused by a rusting master cylinder old style metal lid. PO must have never looked at it.
I had to clean the rust, remove the fluid in the master cylinder, & flush the lines in my '94.

 

You made me think of something.

Before bleeding, I always suck all the fluid out of the master with an old turkey baster. I then wipe the crud out of the bottom and add fresh fluid before bleeding. This way all the crud doesn't go through the whole system.

 

Dont turkeys taste funny ?....lol...