That's because he wants your money. Transmission shops know they can tell their customers anything and they will believe them. I've been down this road. Get your jeep the hell out of there. Worst case, you can pick up a tranny from the junkyard for 100-200 bucks. Swap it in. Do not give your money to these criminals.

 

Junkyard AW4 seems to make the most sense. Call around town and see if anyone will install it for you.

 

I told him to just put it back together. I don't think he is charging me anything. I may have just got a free transmission flush! Since I had no problems driving it, I am going to drive it, hopefully it won't have a problem before I get my tax return.

 

Not a bad idea, keep an eye on it and if it does need replaced get a used one from a junkyard for a few hundred dollars like others have said. The AW4 is a very durable transmission so there are plenty of good used ones out there.

I would also recommend to avoid using that shop in the future. The AW4 is a simple enough transmission that a decent shop should be able to repair or rebuild it (this would still cost much more than a JY trans but cheaper than a new one), anyone who tries to sell you a new AW4 is either to incompetent to diagnose and repair the problem (or do a full rebuild if necessary) or trying to rip you off (considering they recommended a replacement before even dropping the pan and kept on that track I would guess the latter), even a full rebuild should only cost $1,500-$2,000.

 

Ya know anybody with wrenches and a garage.??? It may be apple to oranges, but we rebuilt my son's Ford AOD transmission including a few "hard parts" (reverse clutch basket and band) as well as all seals and friction plates for $157... Took us two days cause we weren't pushing it too hard... Been working perfect this past year since... Just putting out there another possible option... The place was Dacco Transmission that we obtained the kit and parts from...

 

So the fluid change might have done it! On the half hour drive home, there was no sluggishness, no problem going down the road, and no check engine light!

 

That's good news. Now you should do another drain n fill. Remember.... 50% of the old fluid, is still in there. There is a lot of good advice given on this forum, you would be wise to use it. It's freeeeee!

 

Good things do happen

 

Well the same two codes appeared tonight, I am thinking about adjusting the TV cable. I am a little unclear about how to do that though.

 

The light came on whole I was coasting. I have no idea why

 

Weighing my options now. I am not really having any issues to speak of except the check engine light keeps coming on. I am worried if I have my wife start to drive it something will break on her.

I have not tried a new throttle position sensor. If I needed this wouldn't I have some other symptom as well?

 

https://www.cherokeeforum.com/showthread.php?t=185231

 

If the TPS somehow effected RPM drop before, during or after the TCC solenoid is activated it may have had something to do with P0740.
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94 P0740 Torq Conv Clu, No RPM Drop At Lockup

Relationship between engine speed and vehicle speed indicates no torque converter clutch engagement (auto. trans. only)
____

The error code indicates there is no rpm drop detected after the TCC solenoid is activated. When the TC is locked it drops engine rpms, the computer didn't detect rpm drop and activated an error code thinking the TC isn't locked.

I would road test the transmission. Accelerate slowly, enough that you able to detect shifting and TC lock.

The TCC will lock the TC only in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gears. (disabled in 1st gear)

TCL = torque converter lock (drop in rpms)

You should be able to feel the TCL sometime after each gear shift and before the next gear shift until 4th gear is reached.

During acceleration observe the tach and speedometer, immediately after each TCL should notice a slight drop in rpms.

Note the approx. speed and rpms before and after each TCL.

1st (no TCL) >> (2nd > TCL) >> (3rd > TCL) >> (4th > TCL)

If the MIL is active I would clear any codes to determine if another DTC is set during testing.

 

I appreciate all the help! I will attempt to take note of rpm and shift points. I have a new tps on the way just to cover my bases. When I tried to test the tps from the TCM plug I could not measure any voltage, although it is possible my probes weren't making good contact to the pins.

 

You did have the key to RUN didn't you?