Guys I've been researching and researching for this relay is there a relay? For the blower motor. I don't even know if I need to pull it... I was wiring my new radio and spotted a melted pigtail to the ac controls and I'm not ready to deal with that right now so I was gonna cut and tape it off. But it's making a noise now without the ac or truck on it makes a weird noise.. so I disconnected the battery. It happened so fast I didn't even think about the battery. I probably shorted something because as soon as I pulled the ac controls it fell apart and started making the noise. So I'm searching for the relay. I found the fuse but I cant find it for nothing. It's a 96 jeep cherokee country btw

 

I don't think you'll have a relay in a 96 and even so, if you've pulled the fuse, the relay won't provide power.

You should have another connector plugged into the back of it that has 4 wires on it, disconnect that and tape it up. Power runs through that wiring and switch before it gets to the speed switch.

This connector melting is very common on XJ's.

 

okay so I'm not crazy lol I've been tearing my dash apart sweating like crazy trying to find it.. I did grab a picture of what I could from behind the glove box I'll post it but the only black relay looking thing doesnt disconnect or separate like a relay would.

 

And I just pulled the fuse and reconnected the negative and the noise hasn't happened again yet.. I got my fire extinguisher just in case lmao

 

do you know how I'd go about replacing the melted switch?

 

I think the switch itself unbolts from the AC controller if the switch is damaged but I'm pretty sure it's the harness melts as the switch gets too hot. I think the only option you'd have is to get one from a scrap vehicle if your switch needs replacing. Both of my XJ's have that connector melted, not as badly though.

I believe this is the replacement connector, just double check it has the same pin pattern: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...80314&jsn=2199

The only way to properly fix this so it can't happen again is to put 4 relays into the circuit to take the load from the switch, but I don't know if there are any write-ups on it, it's a task I intend to do myself.

Before you go ahead and replace the wiring and possibly switch, you want to check that your blower motor spins freely. If it's seizing up due to age etc,it puts a higher current draw on the circuit, creating more heat.

 

gotcha yeah it whistles when you turn it on but I'm missing a line from the uhhh compressor anyways so I have to get all the stuff for it and yeah I was thinking about finding the switch from a junk yard and pulling the pigtail and splicing the wires from my heel to the pigtail I pull. And I'd definitely need a write up lol. I'm illiterate with this stuff. Lol other mechanical stuff I've got you mostly lol.

 

I just found the blower speed switch on RA, my previous link does not look like the correct connector and I can't see one that matches. Failing a replacement connector, good quality crimp connectors should do the job, I'm pretty sure the switch contacts are a standard size.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo...0314&jsn=12269

 

oh so eliminating the pigtail all together? And just using that part? Sooo I think since I'm leaving it alone for now can I just wrap the whole pigtail in electrical tape so I know where the wires go later?

 

I'd say you're better off if you can get another pigtail but some spade terminals should be fine providing they are good crimps. I can't vouch for the quality of that switch, being in the UK it's not a brand I've come across but if you do need one, you can get them. There are 3 listed on RA and that was the most expensive one.

If you want to have a look they come under:
Jeep - 1996 - Cherokee - 4.0 - Electrical-Connector - Blower Switch Connector
Jeep - 1996 - Cherokee - 4.0 - Electrical-Switch & Relay - Blower Switch

If you do have that other connector on the back of the heater controls, which I'm pretty sure you should, unplug that too(not the one that's a load of vacuum lines). That'll guarentee that the dead connector has no voltage. Other than that, tape it up for now.

 

sweet thank you soo much!!

 

No problem. Just post back if you needto, if you have any more questions about it, I'll be glad to help where I can.

 

The '96 has a very poor electrical design for the blower fan, corrected on 97 and later

Installing relays is the only fix that is good enough imo

I will edit in my write-up of how I did this, cost me about $20

failure to rectify this situation risks cooking your ignition switch (and everything else in the circuit), as ALL fan current runs thru all parts;

###############################

ended up adding relays to protect the ignition circuit, they are behind the side kick panel, the red wire is fused power thru a grommet in the firewall....it looks just the same as it did before

made them with spade connectors so it can all be taken apart if needed...but as you can see my original connector is toasted.

I did find I can only do 3 speeds...high must be spliced behind the dash somewhere, as High Speed runs with the plug disconnected, so I could not relay it out, however, speed 3 is almost as strong, so not a game ending issue. Just got to remember not to run my fan on max setting.
The area circled in green is the splice on the circuit diagram

roasting your ignition is a serious nuisance, so now that my headlights are relayed as well, hoping it will last longtime

does not apply to post '96




I cant find the pic I did, but the relays re fitted between the harness to the RESISTOR pack, and resistor pack
One relay for each speed