slimjimvinny

1997 XJ Sport 5 speed, 2" budget boost, 230k, 30" BFG AT's.

I have an intermittent steering clunk coming from the front end (obviously the front.) I also have a light rattle over uneven pavement, also from the front end, but it goes away when I apply brake pressure, so I believe the two issues are unrelated. The clunk is my problem.

The problem with the clunk is, it seems to "shift" my steering components. It does it after I've turned the wheel approx 90 or a few more degrees, left or right, at low speeds, and only sometimes (maybe once or twice a day with normal driving.) The really unusual part is, sometimes I'm driving down the freeway and I have a pretty strong pull to the right. Other times, it's almost non-existent.

What I've done:

Durango steering box (approx 2 years ago, no difference in clunk)
New sway bar bushings (front end quieter, but no change in clunk)
New lower control arms with new bushings (no change at all, old bushings were cracked/worn out)
Alignment (twice, no change either time)
Had a friend turn the wheel while I lay underneath (nothing found)
Tires rotated (no change)
Front end inspected at a shop (nothing found, but I think they may have been a bit shiesty)

What the HELL is going on?!?

I'll answer any/all clarification questions you may have, this is driving me srrriously crazy.

Thanks for your help!

shackwrrr

Light rattle is brake pad rattle. Pad mounts need welded and ground flat.


The clunk sounds like a loose track bar. Either bushing, bolt, or joint.

BatmanXJ

Check your joints in the steering shaft. That could cause clunks and play in the steering.

DFlintstone

Nor-Cal. Not Armadillos. Racoons? Time to whip up some "Bambi Bumper Stew?"

I just asked another member about MY slight pull to the right. Amongst the things mentioned was to carefully measure from the rear to front wheels on both sides and compare. If 97 has leaf springs I might check the shackle bolts. You double checked the steering box bolts I hope.

Slim357

Mine does the same thing from time to time. I just take my impact to the front end bolts and go to town torquing the **** out of them and it goes away for a few months geanted the pulling issue never does but the front end clunk does. Found its usually the adjustment sleeve on the tie rod bar. My ball joints have since started going bad so it pops even after I retorque everything.

DougyFresh

you just described exactly what mine was doing when the trac bar bolt worked loose

DougyFresh

U-joints binding can cause the occasional pull. I have seen it a few times. Actually, U-joints binding could explain almost all of your symptoms...

opie1988

+1 , axle shaft U joints play havoc when they are bad

Turbo X_J

Torque wrenches and specs are there for this reason. Chances are if your depending on the impact wrench alone, everything is still loose.

Turbo X_J

Upper control arm bushings. With that kind of mileage you should probably just replace everything before something snaps.

Slim357

Sadly I dont own one yet but I can even put a breaker bar on them and the bolts wont move so I figure the must be pretty tight

slimjimvinny

Thanks for all the replies guys, I'm visiting a shop tomorrow to see if I can pin this down a little better.

Just to clarify, I'm a car guy but I haven't gotten really involved in my Jeep yet. What exactly are the U joints, what do they do and how do I check them?

slimjimvinny

So after visiting a great local shop here in Sacramento, I was told the track bar and upper tie rod end are both shot. I didn't have enough money to get them both taken care of today, but the shop guy sold me a used track bar he knew was in good shape and advised me on how to just throw it in there myself (told you this shop was cool.) Then I'll take care of the tie-rod end next paycheck, and get an alignment.

I let you all know after I get the track bar in and see what happens.

freegdr

Plastic sleeves on caliper mounting bolts still in tact ?

Radi

Look at the ends of your front driveshafts, just before the hub and you'll see them. Also you'll find one at each end of your front and rear driveshafts.
They are a coupling designed to allow side to side movement (like turning the front wheels) while still transmitting power. They get their name from the double 'U' shape with a swiveling cross in the middle.

They fail in two ways, getting too loose or binding up tight. Turning them by hand and feeling for signs of slop or binding is the usual way to check them.
Also visually check for signs of rust dust around the end caps, listen for clunks or squeaking and check for heat after some miles use. (they should run nearly cold)