Hi all,

I have a 2001 XJ and will be pulling the head. What's the best way to torque the rear head bolt that's right against the firewall? The only setup I've found that works is a 3/8" socket, universal, extension, and 3/8-1/2 adapter at what appears to be around a 22.5 degree angle so torque math would be needed. It looks like reducing the angle would require moving the hefty wiring harness or cutting steel. Looking for any ideas?

Thanks

 

Deep 1/2 inch socket. Put the socket on the bolt before attaching the wrench. slip wrench in and attach to socket. Torque normally. Reverse procedure to remove wrench and socket.

I just did my head swap and this is how I got the bolt in / out / torqued.

Hope this helps.

 

What year Cherokee do you have and what brand socket did you use?

With my craftsman 1/2" drive socket it is not possible to put a torque wrench on that bolt with the socket already on the bolt? There is maybe 1" of clearance with the socket in place- maybe enough to fit the torque wrench if it didn't have the square drive fitting.!

I'm tempted to cut a socket down about an inch but I'll need to find one that is splined up more than the Craftsman.

Cutting off the top of the new head bolt and drilling a shallow 1/2" drive socket is another option I've considered.

 

Myself and others have cut the threaded stud end off the bolt and just used a standard socket to torque it.

I used a Dremel cutoff wheel on mine.

Kevin 108 posted a pic of his cut off bolt installation. See if you can find him and find out (PM) where the thread is with his pic.

If you do this you'll have to relocate the bonding strap to a different location nearby.

Pic of cut bolt.

 

I grabbed a pair of pliers & bent the metal lip up enough to fit my 1/2" socket & torque wrench underneath after fiddling with trying to put the socket on then the wrench. Then just bent it back down when I was finished.


Certainly not the "right" way, but it worked.


I used a "Gearhead" (Pepboys sells them) brand socket - it's slightly smaller than the craftsman so I only had to bend the lip a minimal amount.

 

Thanks for the additional ideas. They all seem reasonable considering the location of the bolt. I wish the torque spec was something like 45 ft lbs then 90 degrees, would make life easier. I found a Sears that had a 3/8" drive deep 12-point 1/2" socket. The splines run up pretty far so I should be able to cut an inch off the socket and then use a 1/2F-3/8M adapter with the torque wrench. I can use the same socket for the stage 1&2 22 ft-lb and 45 ft-lb torque with my 3/8" torque wrench.

 

I put in 13 mm 12pt socket that is 1/2 drive and put it on and then put the torque wrench on it (there will be only maybe 1/4 inch of engagement between the square head on the wrench and the hole on socket) and I pressed on the business end of the wrench hard enough so it ll not slip out of the socket, while torquing it to 110 lbs

 

Thanks all for the ideas. I tried my idea of modifying the socket but lack the proper tools to really see it through (i.e. drill press, full set of drill bits). I was able to shorten the socket but would need to drill it.

Following John2001XJ's suggestion, I went to the local Pep Boys but they did not have a 12 pt deep socket in either 1/2" or 13mm.

Following XJwonders suggestion, I found that my Craftsman 1/2" drive 13mm 12 pt does not have a collar inside and will fit on the bolt, and like he says, leaves very little for the square drive of the torque wrench, maybe 3/16". Someone with a drill press could probably make a 1/2" drive socket work this way for a better fit on the head bolt. 13mm is a little loose, since these are 1/2".

I found that my 3/8" torque wrench can be set 10% higher than the scale printed on it and checked it against my 1/2" drive. It seems to be accurate.

Another I had that was not mentioned was to "slightly" shorten the head bolt leaving enough on that the ground strap would still work. Possibly using a thinner nut.

 

I would think just putting whatever socket/wrench combination you have that'll allow a good 90 angle would be fine. You should have a good idea of how tight the others felt. Just ball park it.

 

Here is the socket set I had bought when I replaced my head. Keep in mind I did take a pair of lock-jaw/alligator pliers & bend that lip up slightly to get everything to fit:

http://www.pepboys.com/product/detai...ts_socket_sets