When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Stock XJ Cherokee Tech. All XJ Non-modified/stock questions go hereXJ (84-01)
All OEM related XJ specific tech. Examples, no start, general maintenance or anything that's stock.
Your mystery connector is a power steering pressure switch. It is unique to the 2.5L. It bumps up the idle when it senses pressure. It would connect to a switch on the high pressure line coming out of the pump. I wasn't able to see it in any of the pictures you've posted. Regardless, won't keep the engine from running.
eta: i'm gong to finish watching the video... it may tell me where to look if he hooks it up
eta: you know.. does this count as a support group or like 12 step program? hello, my name is Missie and I can't leave my jeep alone lol
I do not see it, however, we may have edited the line.. if that is true, it very well could be in the garage somewhere... rockauto has a pic of one but it only has 2 blades.. and is out of stock
now... now I will finish watching the video
Last edited by onestrongwriter; Apr 21, 2023 at 09:14 PM.
The wires from the distributor need to be addressed. They are the cause of the 54 No Sync code. Without them hooked up you will have no spark and thus no run. I went and took a pic from my 95 which is a 4.0l not a 2.5l but the connector should be the same. There is the other half of the connector missing it likely plugs into that plug right next to it.
VeebOrg, just for clarification. Your post discusses the empty connector and the connector-less wiring coming out of the distributor, but the photo is of the coil and something behind it. I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Also, assuming she gets a connector, what does the group think is the best way to splice those three wires? There are easy butt slices, but those are not so waterproof, and there are verging degrees of waterproof splices, but they can be difficult for someone new to this kind of thing.
better pic of the wire on the bottom of the distributor
That broken wire right there is why it won’t start. That goes to the distributor pickup, which is also called a camshaft sensor. Without it, it won’t start because it’s missing the cam signal. The computer doesn’t know where the camshaft is, so it won’t start. You can get a new sensor, like this one.
To clarify, you don’t need to replace the female end of the connector, as it broke off from the male end, which comes off of the sensor. You can unplug the broken part of the wire from the connector, take the cap/rotor off, and remove the old pickup sensor, put the new one on, and you’ll be good to go
I've may have been following a misconception. I believed the cam position sensor replacement required the removal (and replacement) of the roll pin from the distributor drive gear and disassembly of the distributor (like a RENIX), that is why I was interested in splicing in a new connector. If it is a ring shaped sensor and does not require distributor disassembly, that is good news and will make putting this back together a lot easier.
The wires from the distributor need to be addressed. They are the cause of the 54 No Sync code. Without them hooked up you will have no spark and thus no run. I went and took a pic from my 95 which is a 4.0l not a 2.5l but the connector should be the same. There is the other half of the connector missing it likely plugs into that plug right next to it.
message number 16 shows its fine.. thank you though
VeebOrg, just for clarification. Your post discusses the empty connector and the connector-less wiring coming out of the distributor, but the photo is of the coil and something behind it. I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing. Also, assuming she gets a connector, what does the group think is the best way to splice those three wires? There are easy butt slices, but those are not so waterproof, and there are verging degrees of waterproof splices, but they can be difficult for someone new to this kind of thing.
I know how to solder and use shrink tube lol
my hubby insists it be done that way
That broken wire right there is why it won’t start. That goes to the distributor pickup, which is also called a camshaft sensor. Without it, it won’t start because it’s missing the cam signal. The computer doesn’t know where the camshaft is, so it won’t start. You can get a new sensor, like this one.
apparently its a thing... so in addition to this part of the convo.. new plugs and wires.. and it would explain the loud noise I heard... though not why the engine was all wet on the drivers side
Its late.. and I'm baking bread... I haven't even checked fuses yet... Idk if I will get to it Sunday.. as I have to clean out the carb on the merc... and go see my hunny in the hospital and thats usually an all day adventure...
I had to go check on my son today as he is not taking it well and that was an 8 hour adventure... He got it out on his house and feels much better now..
If anyone prays we could sure use some over here for favor and protection and coping and healing please.. also, gratitude.. small miracles everywhere and big ones here and there.. hubby goes to the first bit of rehab in a few days
It does look like the distributor is different on your 91 than on my 95. I have the ring shaped one, and yours is that brick looking one. I would recommend you get a new distributor, as it comes with the new sensor, and replacing the distributor might do you some good. I could almost guarantee the distributor shaft is worn out, and it would save you a lot of time vs just replacing the sensor or splicing in a new connector.
There are 3 options you can get for a pretty cheap price. It looks like the pickup sensor is about as expensive as a whole distributor, so it might be cheaper and easier to just replace the whole distributor
