Awesome! Thanks. It sounds like the diagram at that 4x4 site just stinks.

I love to upgrade when I can. But, the existing tie rod seems to be in good shape. And, the drag link ends are sold weird... you can buy the end that goes to the pitman arm separately. But, the other end that goes to the tie rod is sold as part of a whole new drag link/center link!

It looks like I may have found a way to get all the parts for about $65 at partsgeek.com:

Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee

Tie Rod End
Front Left Inner To Connecting Tie Rod
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062962 $8.75 $8.75

Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee

Tie Rod End
Front Left Outer
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062961 $8.75 $8.75

Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee


Tie Rod End
Front Right Inner To Pitman Arm
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062963 $8.75 $8.75

Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee


Tie Rod End
Front Right Outer
Steering Tie Rod End -- Problem Solver - incl. powdered-metal gusher bearing to allow grease to penetrate bearing surfaces; left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062819 $22.75 $22.75

Vehicle: 1993 Jeep Cherokee


Tie Rod End
Right - Pitman Arm to Steering Arm
Steering Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve -- left hand drive vehicles
PartsMaster 2228-07062882 $6.75 $6.75


__________________________________________________ _


But, are these Parts Master parts decent parts or are they going to suck or break sooner than normal?

 

Thanks. I already have the new track bar bushings. I'll probably do that when I have it all apart to replace the tie rods or ends.

 

You know, this leads me back to my original question about all this...

I wanted to know, if I could find a Grand Cherokee or the linkage from one in a junkyard, can't I just get a handful of new bushings and put those in the ZJ parts and put them on my XJ?

For that matter, it seems like the bars and ends are just fine. Can't I just get whatever bushings I need for the rest of the linkage and just replace those, keeping the rest of the existing parts? They're not even rusted, just greasy.

Thanks again everyone for your patience. This steering stuff is confusing for me.

 

This image should be a sticky:

 

I already have that pic on my desktop. Also, I'm pretty sure I mentioned I'm looking right at the diagram in the Haynes and even the Chilton's books I have here.

The problem seems to be with the diagram at that 4x4 store at the link I gave you guys. Thanks for clearing that up.

 

Here's where I am with this now. Or, possibly the list of parts I gave if anyone can tell me if that brand is alright.

 

Not to make a hard decision for ya but have you thought about doing the Durango power steering pump swap? Not sure if that was covered on this topic or not

 

That image should hang on the wall at LKQ Rockford... Just sayin'

 

You must mean #3. Durango Steering Box = beefier

If a new steering box is necessary I'd probably try finding one of those. But, so far nobody can even tell me what bushings or boots or whatever I would need to use the ZJ junkyard upgrades listed there.

If they could tell me that, I could probably just keep the linkage I have and replace those inexpensive bits for now to make it safe to drive at least.

Plus, that picture is not useful to buy parts from anyplace that says stuff like "inner, outer, top, bottom" when describing the tie rods or ends.

 

I'm assuming this Jeep is just street driven, so no real point in all these upgrades. Just replace what is bad and move on.

 

If im wrong dont blame me but I believe you need the stock zj bushings. So when you pull the tie rod from the junk yard grab the sleeve tie rods and everything if thats what your asking?

 

That is exactly what I wanted to do. Thanks. Couldn't find bushings for the rest of the linkage like I did for the track bar. People say replace the ends. Okay, but then peoples' and even stores' and the haynes book descriptions of these parts vary greatly so I came here for help.

I'm a little more clear on the bars I already knew about, that I probably don't need to replace right now. But, as for what ends I need....

The best anyone has described it as 3 TREs and a drag link. I found a bunch of parts I can afford right now and listed them in this thread. Unfortunately, it seems that nobody is reading much of the text in these threads.

I was asking if that brand was okay to use, if anyone knows.

And, yes I agree that when I do get the upgrades, I might as well just get aftermarket parts for the ZJ for the linkage. I might try the same for the durango steering box if that's what it takes to fix the steering. Or, a rebuilt one for the XJ isn't bad at about $150.

And, the side question was about the fact that I can wiggle my steering shaft with my hand without the pitman moving. It doesn't move in and out like Radi mentioned in another thread but it spins about a 3/8 turn either way by hand.

I hope that clears things up.

 

Apologies if I missed it, but have you tried adjusting the preload on the steering box? The screw on top?
3/8 turn of slop is going to be like driving the Queen Mary while drunk. That's a lot of slop.
I'd give that preload adjustment 1/4 turn clockwise, tighten and see if the slop improves. Go for a drive and pay careful attention, looking for failure to return to center or a binding feeling on-center. If you get those, put the adjuster back where it was. Keep making small adjustments to see if you can improve it.
If you end up binding on center without removing the slop, the box is shot.

 

Ah, I just went back and re-read, you did indeed adjust the box and the slop remained.
You need a new steering box. It's worn beyond adjustment.
Skip the Durango box, for your purposes the OEM box is just fine and simpler to install.
Are your tie rod ends OK or are they shot? I usually grab them while having someone turn the wheel back and forth. You'l be able to feel any unwanted side to side movement.

 

Drag Link:
Moog - Tie Rod End
Part Number: DS1238

• limited lifetime warranty
• UPC: 80066414454
• Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
• Front Right Outer
• Left Hand Drive Vehicles

Tie rod to pitman arm:
Part Number: ES3096L

• limited lifetime warranty
• UPC: 80066414546
• Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
• Front Left Outer
• To Pitman Arm
• Left Hand Drive Vehicles

Driver's side tie rod:
Part Number: ES3094L

• limited lifetime warranty
• UPC: 80066414522
• Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
• Front Left Outer
• Left Hand Drive Vehicles

Tie rod to drag link:

Part Number: ES3095R

• limited lifetime warranty
• UPC: 80066414539
• Includes Powdered-Metal Gusher Bearing To Allow Grease To Penetrate Bearing Surfaces
• Front Right Inner
• To Connecting Tie Rod
• Left Hand Drive Vehicles

The center link is the tube that your left outer and right inner tie rods connect to. I don't know if this helps or not. All the above are Moog numbers, btw, but you can cross them.

Edit: I have no experience with the brand you mentioned. If that's what you can afford to buy though, better to have good "cheap" parts, than bad parts.