best 4.0L
Newbie
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Chino Valley, AZ
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Yah know, Ive got to say I DO like the earlier 4.0s better than the later. I mean Ive got a Beautiful 2001 SilverStone Metallic with a little over 64,??? miles, and yes that Jeep Gits Up and Goes, and has taken a bit of Abuse, but then I drive my Haggard looking Desert Fade Black 87 the First year 4.0 with 291,??? miles shes spun along, and Ive got addmiration and respect for that old motor. My 99 is under rebuild right now, as Cylinder #2 wrist pin made a egg shape hole in the piston vs. a Round one. That Jeep had 132,??? miles on her odometer when that happened. My 96 has 248,??? miles and runs like a champ. Ive Had two 88s and one 89 that just seemed to have a Gruntier torque than the later year 4.0s, regardless of manual or auto tranns. I do believe the earlier 4.0s were more durable, and reading of the Higher nickle content of earlier 4.0s conferms that.
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
I'm getting a snorkel so I'll have a true cold air intake, and I also want a bored throttle body.
Basically all of those components, along with a heat shield between the exhaust and intake manifolds and heat wrap on them will make plenty of power!
Seasoned Member
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 414
Likes: 0
From: Portland, Oregon
Year: 1991
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Any details on this heat shield you're going to install? I've always felt like isolating the intake manifold from the heat of the exhaust might be a good thing.
I have an aftermarket header waiting to go on, going to look into having it ceramic coated first. I've heard the exhaust wraps can expedite rust by trapping moisture and sometimes even cause headers to crack because of holding too much heat in... then again it gets used on race engines fairly often so I guess it just depends on the durability of what you're using it on.
I have an aftermarket header waiting to go on, going to look into having it ceramic coated first. I've heard the exhaust wraps can expedite rust by trapping moisture and sometimes even cause headers to crack because of holding too much heat in... then again it gets used on race engines fairly often so I guess it just depends on the durability of what you're using it on.
Member
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 150
Likes: 1
From: East Tennessee
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Do you have to mod the exhaust to hook it all up?
CF Veteran
Joined: Sep 2010
Posts: 1,992
Likes: 0
From: West Bloomfield,MI
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L, CAI, Edelbrock Breather, Optima Yellowtop
Originally Posted by WantACherokee
Any details on this heat shield you're going to install? I've always felt like isolating the intake manifold from the heat of the exhaust might be a good thing.
I have an aftermarket header waiting to go on, going to look into having it ceramic coated first. I've heard the exhaust wraps can expedite rust by trapping moisture and sometimes even cause headers to crack because of holding too much heat in... then again it gets used on race engines fairly often so I guess it just depends on the durability of what you're using it on.
I have an aftermarket header waiting to go on, going to look into having it ceramic coated first. I've heard the exhaust wraps can expedite rust by trapping moisture and sometimes even cause headers to crack because of holding too much heat in... then again it gets used on race engines fairly often so I guess it just depends on the durability of what you're using it on.
I'd look into ceramic coating too. Not only does it look good, its very functional. The heat wrap can trap moisture, but if you spray the exhaust manifold down with flame proof paint, it should be fine.
::CF Moderator::
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 43,971
Likes: 1,579
From: Prescott, Az
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee (XJ)
Engine: 4.0
I made one for my Datsun 3.0 stroker inline 6 using 2 pieces of aluminum sandwiched together with a 3/8" space between the sheets. Worked kinda like a dual pane window only much cruder.
Senior Member
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 882
Likes: 2
From: Michigan (Home state) Stationed in Montana
Year: 1993
Model: Grand Cherokee
Engine: 5.2L MPI V8 (318)
Did the injector swap on my 94 country, I wouldn't even bother with it. The OBDII computers will automatically adjust fuel flow to be around the same as stock injector output with the new four port injectors. You'll get better spray of course, since you're going from single to four port injection, but as far as power and huge increases like some get from different engines/computers/models, I sure didn't on the OBDII system, a lot of guys have had the same experience as I have.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,858
Likes: 1
From: Nor-Cal
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: The venerable 4.0
Originally Posted by CherokeeCountry
Did the injector swap on my 94 country, I wouldn't even bother with it. The OBDII computers will automatically adjust fuel flow to be around the same as stock injector output with the new four port injectors. You'll get better spray of course, since you're going from single to four port injection, but as far as power and huge increases like some get from different engines/computers/models, I sure didn't on the OBDII system, a lot of guys have had the same experience as I have.
CF Veteran
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,844
Likes: 4
From: Glen Burnie, MD
Year: 1994
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 H.O. K&N, Borla headers, custom down pipe, magnaflow hi-flo cat, flowmaster to turn down tip
i have had both a RENIX 88 XJ and a OBD1 94 XJ, and i loved them both. i like the reliability of the later electrical system, it seems to get better gas mileage and power with the same mods as well. but if you know how to use a volt meter, and have a little patience, then the RENIX motor is the one for you. you can fix anything with a voltmeter on the 87-90 motors!


