bent transmission cooler pipe on 95 XJ
#1
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Year: 1995
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
bent transmission cooler pipe on 95 XJ
Hi guys,
Great forum! I'm new here. I picked up a 95 Xj Ltd as a in-between vehicle a couple of weeks back, but I have kind of fallen for it and I'm now starting to tidy it up to use as my daily driver.
Thanks the the forum I diagnosed and replaced a faulty O2 sensor and she's running a lot better now. But while I was under the truck I did discover a bit of a horror show.
what is left of the bump stop
So, it seems that with the bump stop rotten away, I have at some point gone over a decent bump and the rig has come down and bent the tranny cooler pipe over that bolt. I did notice that the transmission tunnel was pretty warm when I took it for a test driver after doing the O2 sensor - so I hope it hasn't fried already! My question is, can I cut out that section and replace with a transmission fluid hose as a temporary repair (until I can get the shocks and bump stop sorted)? And if so, what diameter hose should I get? I don't have tools for flaring the metal pipe, so I was just going to put a decent length over and secure with fuel injection clamps - do you think this would be OK? Oh and also should I bleed the system after?
Thanks very much for the help!
Great forum! I'm new here. I picked up a 95 Xj Ltd as a in-between vehicle a couple of weeks back, but I have kind of fallen for it and I'm now starting to tidy it up to use as my daily driver.
Thanks the the forum I diagnosed and replaced a faulty O2 sensor and she's running a lot better now. But while I was under the truck I did discover a bit of a horror show.
what is left of the bump stop
So, it seems that with the bump stop rotten away, I have at some point gone over a decent bump and the rig has come down and bent the tranny cooler pipe over that bolt. I did notice that the transmission tunnel was pretty warm when I took it for a test driver after doing the O2 sensor - so I hope it hasn't fried already! My question is, can I cut out that section and replace with a transmission fluid hose as a temporary repair (until I can get the shocks and bump stop sorted)? And if so, what diameter hose should I get? I don't have tools for flaring the metal pipe, so I was just going to put a decent length over and secure with fuel injection clamps - do you think this would be OK? Oh and also should I bleed the system after?
Thanks very much for the help!
#3
Beach Bum
Pinched transmission line due to contact from upper control arm is somewhat common. However that long bolt is a risk and should not extend that far, at least remove it and turn it around the opposite direction.
The metal line can have a section cut out and replaced with hose that is rated for transmission fluid. Size of hose required is 3/8" inside diameter. Cut metal line with plumbers pipe cutters only. Do not use a saw because particles will get inside transmission line. It is very important to not get any metal shavings trapped in line.
There will be some drainage when line is cut, be ready for it with catch pan, try not to get fluid on skin.
If using clamps on a smooth tube (no flare), be sure outside of tube is clean of oil, use two clamps on each side, being sure not to overtighten and crush tube.
Check fluid level after finishing, no bleeding of system necessary.
Bumpstops are inexpensive and fairly easy to install.
edit; added picture of plumbers pipe cutter.
The metal line can have a section cut out and replaced with hose that is rated for transmission fluid. Size of hose required is 3/8" inside diameter. Cut metal line with plumbers pipe cutters only. Do not use a saw because particles will get inside transmission line. It is very important to not get any metal shavings trapped in line.
There will be some drainage when line is cut, be ready for it with catch pan, try not to get fluid on skin.
If using clamps on a smooth tube (no flare), be sure outside of tube is clean of oil, use two clamps on each side, being sure not to overtighten and crush tube.
Check fluid level after finishing, no bleeding of system necessary.
Bumpstops are inexpensive and fairly easy to install.
edit; added picture of plumbers pipe cutter.
Last edited by SteveMongr; 09-18-2016 at 07:35 AM. Reason: added picture
#4
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Year: 1998 Classic (I'll get it running soon....) and 02 Grand
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Engine: 4.0
Agreed. There is not much pressure on those lines. You can run with a splice until the car rusts away around it.
If you really want to replace the whole thing, Dorman is probably fine. CCKen, one of our oldest members and a true expert, recommends them.
#5
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Year: 1997
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Flaring the line will give the clamps something extra to work with. Bought Dormans for mine (not yet installed). Less connections, the better. Makes for a cleaner install as well.
Just replaced both bumpstops on my 97. Your springs look no thicker than mine, and i had no issues at all. Jack it up just behind the lower control arm. Clean the tube out with a pik or something as some of the old bumpstop may still be in there. Use a long prybar and perhaps some lube to drive the new bumpstop home, using the coil as leverage. Easy out, easy in.
I went with factory spec replacements from Crown. Part #52004295.
Just replaced both bumpstops on my 97. Your springs look no thicker than mine, and i had no issues at all. Jack it up just behind the lower control arm. Clean the tube out with a pik or something as some of the old bumpstop may still be in there. Use a long prybar and perhaps some lube to drive the new bumpstop home, using the coil as leverage. Easy out, easy in.
I went with factory spec replacements from Crown. Part #52004295.
Last edited by fb97xj1; 09-18-2016 at 11:14 AM.
#6
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Year: 1995
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Perfect!
Thanks for the replies.
I will crack into this today.
Might even order me some new bumpstops while I'm at it
Thanks for the replies.
I will crack into this today.
Might even order me some new bumpstops while I'm at it
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