Battery has power, but when I turn the key nothing happens...
#61
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arctic Circle (Northern Sweden)
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Ok guys, I really need your expertise now.
This morning the Jeep wouldn't start. No click, no crank.
Remember that my NSS is bypassed and still no start. But I still have reverse lights, it would only start in P and N with the bypass. New NSS is ordered, probably take a couple days. New starter.
What is going on here?
Could the battery be at fault? The Neg/Pos cables?
Grounds are clean, might be bad cables though, not sure about them. Don't look or feel bad.
I'm clueless so I'd really need some good advice.
This morning the Jeep wouldn't start. No click, no crank.
Remember that my NSS is bypassed and still no start. But I still have reverse lights, it would only start in P and N with the bypass. New NSS is ordered, probably take a couple days. New starter.
What is going on here?
Could the battery be at fault? The Neg/Pos cables?
Grounds are clean, might be bad cables though, not sure about them. Don't look or feel bad.
I'm clueless so I'd really need some good advice.
#64
CF Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pasadena, MD
Posts: 4,006
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1987
Model: Wagoneer
Engine: Renix 4.0
Starting your jeep requires amperage, not voltge. Is your charging system properly charging the battery? How many CCA's is it tested at? Could be a bad battery.
#65
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arctic Circle (Northern Sweden)
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by partsguyct
See if theres power to the starter start there and work out
#66
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arctic Circle (Northern Sweden)
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by jakbob
Starting your jeep requires amperage, not voltge. Is your charging system properly charging the battery? How many CCA's is it tested at? Could be a bad battery.
My negative battery clamp was a bit loose so i've replaced that. CCA's not sure..
#67
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2012
Location: connecticut
Posts: 691
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1993
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0l
Originally Posted by seww
Battery is a Varta and at least 2-3 yrs old, so yes, could be that.
My negative battery clamp was a bit loose so i've replaced that. CCA's not sure..
#68
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Of course you need good power out those two from the battery. A charged battery will rest at 12.7 volts at room temp. Below is a thing on the terminals. If you have one of those funky deals that clamps on the cable, those f up allot. Jumped with jumper cables partially bypasses the connection to the bat...also, the one small (green I think) wire to the starter is the one that when powered tells it to crank.
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
#70
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arctic Circle (Northern Sweden)
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by DFlintstone
Of course you need good power out those two from the battery. A charged battery will rest at 12.7 volts at room temp. Below is a thing on the terminals. If you have one of those funky deals that clamps on the cable, those f up allot. Jumped with jumper cables partially bypasses the connection to the bat...also, the one small (green I think) wire to the starter is the one that when powered tells it to crank.
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
Im starting to suspect the battery more and more.
However, the Jeep started this morning. Yesterday we replaced the loose Neg battery clamp. Pos one seems fine and not loose.
We'll see during the day..
#71
Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Arctic Circle (Northern Sweden)
Posts: 210
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 Inline 6
Originally Posted by freegdr
Turn headlights on and try to crank what do headlights do ?
#72
CF Veteran
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Nor-Cal Coast
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 0
Received 17 Likes
on
17 Posts
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Terminals are nice and clean, same with clamps. Did that earlier in the thread
Im starting to suspect the battery more and more.
However, the Jeep started this morning. Yesterday we replaced the loose Neg battery clamp. Pos one seems fine and not loose.
We'll see during the day..
Im starting to suspect the battery more and more.
However, the Jeep started this morning. Yesterday we replaced the loose Neg battery clamp. Pos one seems fine and not loose.
We'll see during the day..
Really do do much with a Renix jeep. (or anything) a $5 digital meter is a pretty good investment. (Harbor Fright).
Agreeing with Freedgr, if there is an issue with power available, (likely?), the headlights will not be bright while you are asking it to start. Another thing without a meeter you can get a sense of running voltage by the speed of the blinker.
Anyway if you have a battery that won't hold a charge, loose connections, and no meter...cool that it starts at all!
#73
Banned
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: USA
Posts: 1,744
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like
on
1 Post
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L i6
Battery gasses have a nasty habit of helping a thin, hard crust form on the bat post's and clamps. They can look pretty good, but that micro-thin layer is a surprisingly good insulator. SHINNY! Lead is what you want. I use a pocket knife, (gently), for the insides of the clamps. For the posts I might use one of those post cleaner wire brushes, but still scrape it with a blade. If you have a condition where you have power, (dash lights ect.), then when you hit it power goes out altogether, that's a common result of a layer of oxidization there. Btw, a half *** connection could be expected to get hot during cranking, or while it's trying. Cleaning those is something to do now and then anyway, so it you are having starting problems, you might want to make sure you have bare lead on lead. Might save you some grief!
This is faster and easier. Best $3 you'll spend on tools.
http://www.harborfreight.com/battery...ner-94450.html