2k_Xj

I Am going to Re explain this I don't think I did explain it right. My battery Is not dieing over night. It Dies while running. I jeep having to Jump the battery. And it will turn over rough. And Run Fine. Untill you Rev it a few times then it dies. Sometimes it turn over fine. Sometimes rough. Idle is Rough Sometimes. And sometimes not. But my battery it killing itself. While running

Phil_XJ

Go to autozone and they can load test the battery and the alternator and tell you if they are working properly. Make sure the battery is charged though when you go there.

OR you can test for the drain yourself, I just had to do this recently. Go pick up one of those cheap multimeters. There are several tests you can do to help solve the issue, all of which are super easy.

- Start the car, and check the voltage. Should be close to 14v, maybe as low at 13.6. That's how you test to see if the alternator is working. If it is not that high then there's your problem. With the car off, check the voltage on the battery. Should be 12.6v at full charge, but will still start the car as long as it's close to 12.0 I think.

If alternator seems to be working:

- Unplug the negative temrinal off the battery. Use the multimeter to complete the connection and you can see how much your battery is draining., or if there is even a drain. Do that by putting one end of the multimeter on the negative temrinal of the battery and the other end on the connector to the battery. (Found out on mine that I had just left the dome light on all weekend and there was no real drain to begin with, so if I had done this first it might have saved me a bunch of time). I think a .03v or less drain is normal but beyond that is bad.

- If there is a drain, check the fuses. There are a bunch of fuses inside the cab and a bunch under the hood. Each one has two metal terminals at the top, just stick the needles of your multimeter on each end and see if it has any readings. Doesn't matter which side is which, but do it with the car OFF. Make sure the car has been off for at least 30 minutes for more accurate readings. They should all be zero, so when you find the fuse that isn't zero just look up what it goes to and there's your drain. ( )

2k_Xj

I also Have removed all my door sensors. You know the things that make your overhead lights Go on and off. I don't think this would be the reason. And recently i have had the battery down to dead twice because of leaving dome lights on

nickxj94

Check your glove box and see if there is anything caught in the latch and keeping the light on,

2k_Xj

Nope I checked and it was locked with nothing in it actually.

Marcucco

Unhook the positive lead on the battery.
Set your multi-meter to the DCV range.
Clamp the red lead on your multi-meter to the positive battery terminal.
Clamp the black lead on the multi-meter to the negative battery terminal.

Getting a reading in the mV range is normal. Getting anything 1 volt or over is a problem.
Certain systems normally draw mV's. Things like the radio, clock and OBC need voltage to store data.
What you're looking for is something that's drawing more then a couple of volts. Enough to draw a battery down over night.

Unplug the fuses one at a time until the the voltage draw goes away and you've found the culprit.
Figure out what's on that circuit and you know where to start searching.

Be sure to check the fuse panel under the hood as well as the one under the dash.

2k_Xj

Okay i will try that

Phil_XJ

Lol that's exactly what I just said to do, but without having to do the work of pulling fuses. Instead just checking the fuses themselves for a current. But either way works

2k_Xj

My battery Was Messed up. I don't have any idea on how this could have been the problem but it was. My battery was the original stock one that came with it. So i guess no big deal Thanks for your help guys

Marcucco

From the new description, these are classic/textbook examples of a bad alternator or charging system.
You may think it's good, but the symptoms show otherwise..

This is what you need to check:

The alternator isn't producing charging current/voltage. (13-14 volts with a weak battery)
The lead from the alternator, or one of it's connections is bad.
The ground from the chassis to the alternator, or one of it's connections, is bad.
The fuseable link (on the front of the Power Distribution panel) has a bad connection.

The problem is not with the battery.
The engine does not be run off the battery, the battery only acts as a buffer to give you an even 12v at any RPM under any load.
anyone who tries to tell you anything different does not know what they are talking about.

It doesn't matter if the battery is good or bad. The alternator should be producing more then enough current to run the engine.
This is a charging system issue. Replacing the battery is not going to solve your problem, it's only going to murder your new battery prematurely.

It could be that what ever is going wrong is only happening when the vehicle is in motion, or the engine is under load or hitting operational RPMs and temperature or something like that, but going by way you've explained this, it's absolutely a charging issue.

In the future, it would be better if you put up a new post rather then editing the original post,
this way we can see all your observations from the start.

2k_Xj

New battery fixed it. I had a mechanic run tests on alternator. It was running fine. It was producing enough charge. The battery just wasen't holding the charge

Marcucco

Okay, but you might want to keep an eye on your volt meter. I'd hate to see you kill a brand new battery.
Like I said, the engine doesn't run off the battery, the battery is just a storage device.
The stock alternator should supply enough power to run the Jeep with no battery at all.
(don't try it, the voltage spikes will cook the electronics).

Are you running a lot of lights or a monster amp?