Ahhhhhhhhhhhhh...............well................
http://www.skygeek.com/daniels-af8-c...dw3BoC2Hzw_wcB

Who here has $315.00 for a military crimper???????/

And that is a cheap one.



This aint the military and you ain't no astronaut.

 

There are equivalent crimpers available for a lot less, and whether this is the military or NASA or not, properly crimped is still better than properly soldered.

It just is, and I can bury you in documentation to prove it.

 

I'm not going to argue with you, frankly, I don't give a **** what anyone else does.


I know what I've been doing for the last 35 years I've owned vehicles.



BTW, when was the last time I asked any of you for one lick of advise? what problem have I come here with?




As to the no solder.........heat, heat melts solder.........mil and NASA deal with extreme heat..........YOU and I don't.

 

Solder melts at almost 400 degrees. It's a vibration and movement thing, not heat.
What do our jeeps deal with? Vibration and movement. To each there own.

 

It's not just for NASA and military, it's not recommended on boats, motorcycles, or cars either. Feel free to do it the wrong way Jeep Driver, you and the rest of the people were being given the correct information to counter your incorrect statements. You are wrong about your 'superior method' opinion and this has been proven over and over. It has nothing to do with heat, it's vibration and movement that cause the problems. It ain't my Jeep you're messing with so solder away if doing it wrong makes you happy, just don't go around suggesting it to others as a superior method because it's not. I did the same decades ago before learning that it was the wrong way.

Once a connection is properly crimped and sealed it won't loosen or corrode negating those advantages that solder could offer. I've seen cables and wires that have broken due to solder and movement. Any soldered connection in an environment with motion/vibration must be properly secured to avoid wire breakage, this generally starts with the terminal design.

 

Most, if not all, wire splices in the Jeep are soldered from the factory. The FSM, Section 8W, gives the procedures.


Personally, I crimp the large terminal (lugs) in the engine bay then apply solder to the joint for no other reason than to seal the connection from the elements; of course, shrink tube following that.


All other small terminals are crimped only, using the proper crimp tool with the proper dies. I use the Klein Tools crimper VDV200.


FAA (Aircraft) Advisory Circular AC43.13-1B recommends crimping lugs, but does not prohibit soldering. It even recommends crimped butt splices.


Here's some pics of my battery cable crimping activity:


https://www.cherokeeforum.com/g/album/5144236

 

Here's how this works: You post bad information on a public forum, and people will correct you.



Ah, the boats! Yes, solder is a big no-no on boat wiring. I should have mentioned that, too. Thanks for catching that.

 

 

You have an opinion and you have an *******, keep both to yourself.


I don't give BAD advice, I state what works for me.

As posted above, my terminals are as clean today as they were 3 years ago when I installed them. I use no additive.


I too have opinions, based on experience. If you do not like my opinion, move on.

Do not attack my intelligence.

 

I'll add this for the sake of anyone reading that may be interested.

I'm a contractor who specializes in kitchens and baths. I've been sweating copper for more than 30 years. You would think that anyone could do something as simple as sweat a copper joint, most people cannot. Like anything else you have to know what you are doing. So when it comes to copper lugs at the end of copper cable.........it simply comes natural to me to sweat or solder the two together.


Since the 50s or there about homes have been plumbed in copper....until recent of course.....
For 65 years or more people have trusted there homes...ceilings, walls, floors......to soldered copper joints. So, to say that you wont trust a soldered joint at the end of a battery cable......well.....that's just stupid.

 

Time to put your big boy panties on.


You gave bad advice. You said that solder is better. It's not.


I'm not the one who is doing that.

 

I got ahold of some red 6 gauge welding cable and 6 gauge lugs and something just doesnt feel right. Both the cable and lugs are stamped/printed as being 6 gauge but the lugs fit so loosely it is literally like trying to use a 1/4" bolt in a 1/2" hole. They are that loose. Are the lugs supposed to fit this loosely? I never had this issue with speaker wire. So i tried an 8 gauge lug on the 6 gauge cable and the lug fit perfect imo as i can feel the strands just making contact with the lug which in my book atleast would/should result in a much better crimp, yes?

 

No they are not supposed to be that loose. I would verify which component is mislabeled. You could have 8 ga. cable, and if you need the amp capacity of 6 ga. you could run into trouble.

 

Thanks. One being mislabeled crossed my mind, but wasnt sure. Still not sure to be honest as this is a first for me. I ran this by by stepfather and showed him both lugs on the same 6 gauge cable and the lug stamped 8 gauge fit just right. I would have to crimp the absolute hell out of the 6 gauge lug for a good fit. The cable is branded Royal Excelene **** 6 (13mm2). The inside diameter (strands only) is 3/16". The outside diameter measures 5/16".

I also received some black 4 gauge cable (in error, i hope) of the same brand from the same seller. I ordered 6 gauge but received 4 gauge...i already emailed the seller). It is branded Royal Excelene **** 4 (19mm2). The inside diameter (strands only) measures 1/4". The outside diameter measures 5/16", same as the 6 gauge.

The lugs were purchased from another seller, 6 and 8 gauge. The 6 gauge lug opening is a hair over 1/4". The 8 gauge lug opening is a hair over 3/16". I tried the 6 gauge lug on the 4 gauge cable and it fits as well as the 8 gauge on the 6 gauge cable. ??????? My dilemma is if either a cable or the lugs were mislabeled as i have not had this much of a mismatch before crimping wire, and do not want to under gauge my cables. I also still need to purchase some 8 gauge cable but until this is figured out...

 

Perhaps this will help: