The battery cables on my 2001 Cherokee are corroded at the battery terminals and need replaced. I called my local Jeep dealer and they quoted $250 for parts!!! After I got up off the floor found out the battery cable is more of a harness with wires going to different things like alternator, etc. In taking a closer look, the "hot" battery cables run into a plastic protector and has smaller wires coming off in several places before connecting to the starter solenoid. At first thought they had just grouped wires together in the plastic protector to guard against engine heat.

The only thing I've come up with is to take everything off and have my local NAPA store try to make a replacement or get cable butt connectors and hope I can cut the existing cables beyond corrosion then connect it with new cable on to the batter terminals.

Does anyone know if any Jeep aftermarket companies sell a less expensive cable harness? Or other less (much less) expensive suggestions?

 

Your best bet would be to buy new end terminals and put them on. usually the corosion doesn't go in to the plastic wraped part of the cable

 

The cable ends are wires which go into screw down clamps on each terminal clamp. There was a inch or so of slack in the cables so cut off the ends and cut back the covering and it was corroded inside the plastic too. I sprayed wires with battery terminal cleaner, cleaned with a toothbrush, and reconnected. It starts/runs find with that, but is a temporary fix and would like to replace cables. My NAPA parts store made new short cables for the one that connects to the body and "hot" that goes to a terminal on the fuse box. I was hoping to have them make the long ones (to starter & block) and got stopped when found out there are extra wires going other places. Any other suggestions?

 

Unfortunatley you are sadly mistaken. Corrosion will travel the entire length of cable if left unattended, most people will not take the time to look past the connectors. I replaced all of my cables on several vehicles to find this. Usually I would have a bad terminal, So I would cut into the wire a few inches to a foot to find out. Luckily I know this great parts guy who can find smokin deals haha. No matter what this type of corrosion can happen in any climate ther is moisture present and a battery around. The battery acid seeps out ever so slightly either in liquid or gas form and bonds with the lead terminals, creating the white powder. If not tended to, the corrosion will travel just like rust. When you make your battery cables use a battery protectant when you install them. They come in spray or gel form, like dielelectric grease and will help seal the cables and terminals from the elements.

 

Go onto NAXJA and PM selarep. I got my cables from me and I am very happy with them.

 

Or, you can click the link in my sig and see what you like there.

I'm about to add 4AWG sets (since I've been asked about them enough times.) They'll come with a caveat - but they'll also cost a good deal less. I already have pricing worked out, I just haven't recoded the page yet...

 

I am curious what the caveat is with using the 4awg setup? Also any idea what the cost will be..? I am seriously going to be replacing all my battery cables very very soon.

 

The caveat will be a limitation in max current from the alternator - I haven't figured it accurately yet, but it's probably going to be 100-120A or so. 1AWG will handle up to 300A constant duty in the lengths we're dealing with, so that's no trouble at all.

So, you could use a mildly upwound alternator, maybe even a 136A Durango/ZJ/WJ unit (V8-equipped,) but definitely not a Powermaster, Nations, or Mean Green 200A unit (you'll probably melt the wiring. Ouch.) That's why I haven't put them up on the site yet - I'm about to calculate what the current limit will end up being, so I can make the caveat accurate.

The starter lead should be just fine - while the starter draws ~150-170A, it's not a "constant duty" requirement - the OEM starter motor feed lead is 8AWG (which is still kinda puny, but there ya go...)

Typically, the 4AWG cable I keep on hand is used for secondary/accessory distribution and HD booster cables, but I've been asked about 4AWG kits enough that I decided to add them.

 

My 2001 is 100% stock except for a 3" lift. Will the 4AWG set handle the "stock" loads and I only need to be concerned if I upgrade alternator and other stuff in the future?

 

It should - from what I've found so far. I'm still beating the bushes, but I'm fairly sure it will handle 100A without too much trouble, and I'm hoping it will handle up to 120A or so (I'm just trying to find a formula that's easy to work with. Most of what I've found so far is for AC wiring in residential/industrial settings, where the wiring is installed in a wall and insulated. The environment does matter...

(Since I'm not having any luck, I've passed along the enquiry to an EE I know.)

 

I can vouch for this guys work. It's top notch and the every cable all fit beautifully, they'll brighten up your headlights too!

 

Saw the thread headline and was going to post this but it seemd that you already have had a consult with the master. http://www.geocities.com/JeepI6Power/electric.html

 

After consulting with an EE of my acquaintance, I can definitely say that a 4AWG kit will handle up to a 150A supply safely. So, this would cover most typical Delco upgrades, as well as the V8 Durango/ZJ/WJ upgrade for later models (although the ANL kit is still very highly recommended!)

Pricing is now up on the site.

 

the cables on my 01 were pretty badly corroded, i just measured the cables and bought new ones at advance auto and changed all of them out in about an hour. its just a pain to get to some of the bolts, like the one on the starter, was easier to get from underneath.

 

5-90 that 4gauge kit looks good and pricing is way cheep to i will be ordering soon