BA10/5 to AX15 cross member ?s
#1
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Year: 1990
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 I-6
BA10/5 to AX15 cross member ?s
so i have an 88 cherokee, 4.0, had the peugeot, now in the middle of the swap and am at the crossmember, for the tranny, anyone have any good info on that? already have the ax15 in and bolted up and ready to bolt crossmember, I kept the crossmember out of the donor as well as the tranny mount but does not seem to line up on bolt holes correctly??
#5
MJ>XJ
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
youll deff use the newer mount though... probly the newer cross member also... im almost positive i read somewhere that the holes are already there... u just use different then you did...
#6
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Year: 1985 shell
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1996 6 cylinder Briggs & Stratton
There are three bolt holes on each frame rail, when i did my swap i had everything from both xj,s and after about an hour of try this try that i ended up drilling new holes in the 91 cross member.
#7
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Year: 1988
Model: Cherokee
Engine: AMC242
Same crossmember - there's just another set of holes further back on the 'frame rails' that you'll use with the AX-15.
(I did this swap myself in my 88 2D after swapping out four of the BA-10's...)
Note that the threaded inserts for the rearward holes may be rusted out. If so, use a small cutoff wheel (I used a Dremel) to cut "access ports" in the side of the rail. Use nuts and flat washers (I used fender washers - more bearing area) to back up the screws from underneath. Be sure to clean, prime, and paint the cut edges so your frame rails don't "rust out from the inside."
(I did this swap myself in my 88 2D after swapping out four of the BA-10's...)
Note that the threaded inserts for the rearward holes may be rusted out. If so, use a small cutoff wheel (I used a Dremel) to cut "access ports" in the side of the rail. Use nuts and flat washers (I used fender washers - more bearing area) to back up the screws from underneath. Be sure to clean, prime, and paint the cut edges so your frame rails don't "rust out from the inside."
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#8
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Year: 89
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
My question is trans mount related but this seemed like a good place to put it.
I'm swapping the ba/10 in my 89 XJ for an AX-15 from an unknown donor (the input shaft on the trans is identical to my peugeot, so I'm thinking 89 or 90)
How many mounts are there for an ax15? The mount from my ba/10 is too big and the holes wont even come close to lining up. I bought a mount for 87 - 99 "everything but a peugeot" but the bolt holes don't line up on the trans (they fit the cross member just fine). The new mount is about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" taller so ill have to lower the cross member by at least 1" to pt it in, and I really don't want my t.c. to be any higher than it needs to be. Has anyone had this issue on their swap, and have a part no. for a better mount?
I'm swapping the ba/10 in my 89 XJ for an AX-15 from an unknown donor (the input shaft on the trans is identical to my peugeot, so I'm thinking 89 or 90)
How many mounts are there for an ax15? The mount from my ba/10 is too big and the holes wont even come close to lining up. I bought a mount for 87 - 99 "everything but a peugeot" but the bolt holes don't line up on the trans (they fit the cross member just fine). The new mount is about 1 1/4" to 1 1/2" taller so ill have to lower the cross member by at least 1" to pt it in, and I really don't want my t.c. to be any higher than it needs to be. Has anyone had this issue on their swap, and have a part no. for a better mount?
#9
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I did this swap. This info is valid and verified.
There are actually 2 sets of mounting holes in the fream of the xj . You need the mounting holes further back. If the holes are junked up you can run a tap up through there to clean threads.
You need an ax 15 x-memeber. This are known by a slight dip in the center instead of being flat all the way across.
You will also need the t-case shifter linkage from an ax15 and this includes the body moount as well. I also hope you got the t-case trans mounted shifter bracket... they are different between the three available transmisions.
Not sure if you are using internal, or external slave trans. If you are using internal, no issues at all. If you are using an external have fun getting the clutch slave,master cylinder right. That is unless you buy thhe whole kit with the line. Then expect to drill out the throw rod on the mastercylinder throw rod. I fought this problem for the better part of a week, trying to figure out what would work and what wouldn't.
Then after all that and mutiple trips to j-yard I found out I had a TJ t-case, which gave me fits with the t-case linkage.
There are actually 2 sets of mounting holes in the fream of the xj . You need the mounting holes further back. If the holes are junked up you can run a tap up through there to clean threads.
You need an ax 15 x-memeber. This are known by a slight dip in the center instead of being flat all the way across.
You will also need the t-case shifter linkage from an ax15 and this includes the body moount as well. I also hope you got the t-case trans mounted shifter bracket... they are different between the three available transmisions.
Not sure if you are using internal, or external slave trans. If you are using internal, no issues at all. If you are using an external have fun getting the clutch slave,master cylinder right. That is unless you buy thhe whole kit with the line. Then expect to drill out the throw rod on the mastercylinder throw rod. I fought this problem for the better part of a week, trying to figure out what would work and what wouldn't.
Then after all that and mutiple trips to j-yard I found out I had a TJ t-case, which gave me fits with the t-case linkage.
#10
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
wait... so if i built a long arm setup for the front and connected them at the crossmember like most kits... would i have to rebuild a different crossmember for when i do a ax-15 swap after the ba-10 goes poop?
#11
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Year: 87
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#12
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Year: 1990
Model: Comanche
Engine: 4.0 I6
looks like your arms are mounted on there own brackets instead of the crossmember?i dunno... im sure ill figure it out when i start building it... lol... ill probly just build a different one when i get a ax15 later on...
#15
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Year: 87
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
I think the RK mounts were they are are perfect for a bolt on kit. The length works really good. I think if they would have moved the mounts back any further they might run into issues withh the upper link mount on drivers side.