axle shaft u joints
CF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 1,316
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From: Coeur d' Alene, Idaho
Year: 1998
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 rebuilt w/ bored TB, banks header, upgraded ignition, 3 row rad, high flow h2o pump, 180* t-stat
actually its a one piece bearing/wheel hub assembly so its not bad. about $75 a hub....actually worth replacing when you do the u joints just cause they're such a pain in the *** to get off....IMO
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CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,533
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From: eaton ohio
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
CF Veteran
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 7,874
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From: Northern Ontario, Canada
Year: 1990, 1999, 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you can leave the hub attached to the shaft, but and easy way to remove the hub from the knuckle is to back off the three 12pt hub bolts, but leave them in about half way, then leave the socket and ratchet on the inner bolt and turn the steering wheel until the back of the ratchet makes contact with the knuckle, then use the steering wheel to push the ratchet with enough force to break the seal on the hub. then move the ratchet/socket to the other bolt if needed to pop the hub free.
then just pull everything out as a whole unit.
it sounds harder than it really is, but i do it all the time with extreme success.
then you can get to the u-joints, but it is easier to replace them with the hub removed from the axle shaft, but not necessary.
then just pull everything out as a whole unit.
it sounds harder than it really is, but i do it all the time with extreme success.
then you can get to the u-joints, but it is easier to replace them with the hub removed from the axle shaft, but not necessary.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 1,533
Likes: 0
From: eaton ohio
Year: 93
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
you can leave the hub attached to the shaft, but and easy way to remove the hub from the knuckle is to back off the three 12pt hub bolts, but leave them in about half way, then leave the socket and ratchet on the inner bolt and turn the steering wheel until the back of the ratchet makes contact with the knuckle, then use the steering wheel to push the ratchet with enough force to break the seal on the hub. then move the ratchet/socket to the other bolt if needed to pop the hub free.
then just pull everything out as a whole unit.
it sounds harder than it really is, but i do it all the time with extreme success.
then you can get to the u-joints, but it is easier to replace them with the hub removed from the axle shaft, but not necessary.
then just pull everything out as a whole unit.
it sounds harder than it really is, but i do it all the time with extreme success.
then you can get to the u-joints, but it is easier to replace them with the hub removed from the axle shaft, but not necessary.
good tip def gonna have to do that
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