I replaced my driver's-side wheel hub assembly last weekend and that nut just wouldn't come off. I have a torque multiplier tool (This: ) that I figured would do the trick but I ended up lifting up the whole vehicle (Used a floor jack to counter torque the multiplier). I ended up having to cut the nut to get it off.

I want to do my other hub tomorrow but I don't have another spare nut if I cut that one off so do you guys have any advice for getting that nut off without killing it? I've been spraying it with PB Blast this week to help loosen it up.

Yeah, I live in the rust belt.

 

I always use an impact wrench, but you can take the center cap off your wheel, put the wheel on the Jeep and lower it to the ground, then just use a breaker bar with a cheater pipe to get it loose. With the tire on the ground, it will allow you to get the torque you need to get it loose. Then just raise it up again, take the wheel off, and loosen it the rest of the way.

 

^ That is how it is done for the 36mm axle nut!
It is tightened to 175 ft.lbs.
If your 36mm socket does not fit through wheel center, place socket on nut with wheel removed, then if clearance allows, install wheel and lower to ground.
Or just use the spare donut tire, it has a bigger hub bore.

The 12 mm, 12 point bolts are another story.

 

I installed my spare mini tire/wheel assembly in place of the full size wheel, turning the wheels hard left, then let it sit on the ground.


Chocked the spare using bricks.


The 36 MM socket will fit through the hole in the spare tire wheel.


Used a 3/4" breaker bar and a 4 foot length of pipe on the breaker bar. Stood on the end of the pipe and it finally broke loose.


Same for both sides.

 

Wish I had an impact but I wouldn't use it enough to warrant buying one.

Yep. I used the correct spec on the nut when I put the other one back on. The 12 point bolts were actually pretty easy to break loose.

Thanks guys for the tips! The socket definitely wouldn't fit through the center of the wheel but I like the idea of using the spare. I only have 1/2" breaker bars from harbor freight and I'm pretty sure they'll break if I try to use them with a pipe. I've broken them without the pipe. Maybe I can track down a better breaker bar from a friend or I'll just have to go buy one. Thanks again!

 

I use the following wrench, it's almost 20" long and had held up well for 3 years. $25. Only goes up to 150 ft.lbs so I have to guess the last 25. Haven't needed to use a pipe on it.
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/too...6126_200396126

 

I have a 1/2" 250 ft.lbs torque wrench that I just bought for this project but I'd be afraid to use it for removal of the nut if that's what you're suggesting. It sure seems like it takes way more than 250 lbs of force to remove the darn thing if you ask me!

 

I would use it, just not with an added pipe. I do not believe overloading it will actually break it.

 

I usually use a 3/4" drive breaker bar with a 2-3 foot pipe and a 3/4F-1/2M reducer.

 

Never use a torque wrench to break a fastener loose. It will ruin it.


Torque wrenches are only used to apply torque. There are few exceptions however. But not in this case.

 

Man, guess I got lucky, just did mine last weekend, 4 foot ratchet broke em loose no problem, lots of pb blaster helped I'm sure lol, I fought the 12pt bolts more than the axle nuts

 

I went out and got a 3/4" breaker bar so I'll use that.

My socket is 3/4" and I just bought a 3/4" breaker bar so I won't need the reducer but I do have one of those.

Yeah. I kinda figured if it didn't break it could potentially mess up the accuracy of the wrench so I had no plans to try it. Thanks for the tip.

 

Well, the hub I was doing last weekend was driven on much longer than it should have been. That's my fault but I didn't want to change it out in the cold during the winter. It came off in two pieces when I removed it. The fact that it was so far gone may have contributed to the difficulty removing the nut maybe? That and rust. :l

 

So I guess Cherokee front axles are different that the older solid axles that had the double nuts and keeper inside the hub ???

 

Correct, and I was actually doing the u joints, my hubs were still good