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AW4 OD Issues

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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:20 PM
  #16  
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when the trans is in forth gear and it kicks up to high rpm it is called a passing gear nothing wrong with that i was told when my trans was rebuilt

BUT this was the kind of thread i was looking for i am haveing problems too yesterday i checked the fluids in the morning and then later went to walmart as driving to walmart i noticed i felt like it wasnt going to 3rd so i started to feel for it from as light and it went to second fine but went up to 3500 rpm and 40 mph before it went to 3rd and then it wouldnt go to 4th so i am thinking it is eather a vacuum problem or a i need to do a filter and oil change and help
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 06:22 PM
  #17  
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Originally Posted by smeltmaster1
when the trans is in forth gear and it kicks up to high rpm it is called a passing gear nothing wrong with that i was told when my trans was rebuilt

BUT this was the kind of thread i was looking for i am haveing problems too yesterday i checked the fluids in the morning and then later went to walmart as driving to walmart i noticed i felt like it wasnt going to 3rd so i started to feel for it from as light and it went to second fine but went up to 3500 rpm and 40 mph before it went to 3rd and then it wouldnt go to 4th so i am thinking it is eather a vacuum problem or a i need to do a filter and oil change and help

OOOkay.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 07:54 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Don't mean to bust your juevos, but........

I'm not 100% sure on your Jeep, but on the earlier models the TCU "shift logic" circuit grounded at the engine dipstick tube stud. How about taking the nut off there, cleaning the stud til shiny, polishing the terminal ends, and reinstalling tightly?
Done, and also checked all 4 connector packs in that area. No bent pins and all sprayed out with electronics cleaner.

The ground circuit was indeed there at the dipstick, and that has been cleaned off and reinstalled tightly, as well.

Will post back if it reoccurs.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:04 PM
  #19  
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From: Stokesdale, NC
Year: 89XJ,98ZJ,72K10, 06 Tundra..
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Default TCU

If you need another TCU, Ive got a few from XJs Ive parted.
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Old Aug 6, 2012 | 08:12 PM
  #20  
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Originally Posted by jtodaro
Done, and also checked all 4 connector packs in that area. No bent pins and all sprayed out with electronics cleaner.

The ground circuit was indeed there at the dipstick, and that has been cleaned off and reinstalled tightly, as well.

Will post back if it reoccurs.
Counting on you posting back.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 01:43 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Counting on you posting back.
Not sure if the unplugging and replugging of ALL 4 connectors near the trans dip stick tube resolved the issue, the cleaning/reinstalling of the ground on the oil dip stick tube resolved the issue, or just I somehow didn't experience the issue in the last two days (it almost acted temp based, and it's been cooler here), but it did not happen today or yesterday.

I will keep you abreast if it returns, as I am taking the jeep on about a 80 mile drive tomorrow as we are floating this weekend.
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Old Aug 10, 2012 | 06:24 AM
  #22  
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It very well could have solved the issue. One of the grounds at the dipstick tube stud is "shift point logic" circuit from the TCU.

Did you spra out all 4 of the connectors with a contact cleaner? What did they look like inside?

Are you a "floater"? What's that?
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 11:58 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
It very well could have solved the issue. One of the grounds at the dipstick tube stud is "shift point logic" circuit from the TCU.

Did you spra out all 4 of the connectors with a contact cleaner? What did they look like inside?
Yes, I sprayed them out. The insides were spotless and almost looked new (no dirt/oxidation or anything in there. looked almost virgin).


Originally Posted by cruiser54
Are you a "floater"? What's that?
Float trip. Drunken rafting with friends down a river. Was a blast.

Back on subject, I traveled roughly 75-80 miles there, non stop, without any issues with the tranny, even on the return trip. Only diff I can say is that it's been ALOT cooler lately, so the only variable that's not ruled out is heat (most likely affecting the TCU/TCM). Guess I'll have to wait till a hot day to rule that out.

Thanks again for all your help Cruiser54. You rock as always.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 02:45 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jtodaro
Yes, I sprayed them out. The insides were spotless and almost looked new (no dirt/oxidation or anything in there. looked almost virgin).



Float trip. Drunken rafting with friends down a river. Was a blast.

Back on subject, I traveled roughly 75-80 miles there, non stop, without any issues with the tranny, even on the return trip. Only diff I can say is that it's been ALOT cooler lately, so the only variable that's not ruled out is heat (most likely affecting the TCU/TCM). Guess I'll have to wait till a hot day to rule that out.

Thanks again for all your help Cruiser54. You rock as always.
Glad to hear it's working so far. Also glad you're not the type of floater I was visualizing. LOL.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 05:02 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by cruiser54
Glad to hear it's working so far. Also glad you're not the type of floater I was visualizing. LOL.
Now I'm seriously worried on what you thought I meant.
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Old Aug 12, 2012 | 06:30 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by jtodaro
Now I'm seriously worried on what you thought I meant.
I wondered when you were gonna get that. LOL.
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 11:36 AM
  #27  
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You need to get the wording correct. Kick down is one gear to a lower gear.Torque convertor lockup is different. This stops torque convertor slippage to increase mileage and reduce transmission temps.
To test torque convertor lockup, Drive down the road at 50MPH in OD. While keeping your right foot steady tap the brake pedal with your left foot and watch the RPMs increase. If working properly the RPMs will increase 200-300RPMs as the convertor is unlocked.
Kick down is used to pass a slow car while going down the highway. This is controled by the cable that runs to the throttle body.
One is mechanicial(kickdown) on is electricial(torque convertor lockup).
If your problem is TC lockup after it warms up it is probably the solenoid for lockup. As it gets hot it will not stay ingaged. It also could be the convertor itself though its alot cheaper to change the solenoids. There are 3 inside the trans pan.When I replace them I get them from here.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=A340solenoid
The ones for the older AW4s fit up to 2001 also.
Here is the method for testing the resistance at the TCU under the dash board directly above your right foot.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...no-56k-717206/
These test methods do work and should help to save you from spending money you dont have to.
They have worked for me,so they should work for you.
Good luck on a tough job.

Ron
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Old Aug 13, 2012 | 03:28 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by may pop
You need to get the wording correct. Kick down is one gear to a lower gear.Torque convertor lockup is different. This stops torque convertor slippage to increase mileage and reduce transmission temps.
To test torque convertor lockup, Drive down the road at 50MPH in OD. While keeping your right foot steady tap the brake pedal with your left foot and watch the RPMs increase. If working properly the RPMs will increase 200-300RPMs as the convertor is unlocked.
Kick down is used to pass a slow car while going down the highway. This is controled by the cable that runs to the throttle body.
One is mechanicial(kickdown) on is electricial(torque convertor lockup).
If your problem is TC lockup after it warms up it is probably the solenoid for lockup. As it gets hot it will not stay ingaged. It also could be the convertor itself though its alot cheaper to change the solenoids. There are 3 inside the trans pan.When I replace them I get them from here.
http://www.bulkpart.com/Merchant2/me...e=A340solenoid
The ones for the older AW4s fit up to 2001 also.
Here is the method for testing the resistance at the TCU under the dash board directly above your right foot.
http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f11/a...no-56k-717206/
These test methods do work and should help to save you from spending money you dont have to.
They have worked for me,so they should work for you.
Good luck on a tough job.

Ron
Thanks for the extra info, but if you read back, you'll see that it is suspected more heat related of an issue. Not sure testing resistances on a "heat only" related issue will resolve the problem. It's working flawlessly now, but temps are 20 degrees cooler so it still may resurface. Will let everyone know if it does.
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:10 AM
  #29  
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Take it to the next step, if it does it, CHECK IT HOT!!!!!!
THE SOLENOID GETS HOT AND STOPS WORKING!!!!!
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Old Aug 14, 2012 | 08:56 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by may pop
Take it to the next step, if it does it, CHECK IT HOT!!!!!!
THE SOLENOID GETS HOT AND STOPS WORKING!!!!!
I'd have figured the 80 or so mile drive would have got the solenoid hot, and yet it did not do it (both there and/or back)f. Again, am leaning towards heat related issues in either the logic harness connectors or the TCU/TCM itself but really can't troubleshoot any further till it returns (and temps are 20 degrees cooler lately).
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