Well, around here on the east coast the pick n pull yards do trans for about 100$, and if you pull trans, fork, master slave, and pedals all at once it comes out to about 140$, clutch kits are about 120$, and the driveshafts can be re used, the difference between the ax15 and an aw4 is less than 1", so no need to change them

 

that is entirely wrong. it's more than an inch and there was no way i could reuse either of my driveshafts, and believe me i tried. i had replaced my front driveshaft on the auto right before the swap and after doing the swap on my 97 i found that the 8.25 and dana 35 (with abs apparently) use different u-joints. i tried the best i could to use both my auto driveshafts. the front was way too long and the rear way too short.

i live on the east coast (well west coast of florida) and there is no way you're getting a ax-15 for $100. look for yourself: http://www.searchtempest.com/search?...min&maxAsk=max

here's the link to my trans swap. it's done correctly and looks and runs like it came from the factory. https://www.cherokeeforum.com/f46/du...-build-146334/

 

I got two of em from pick n save yards...don't know what you want me to say about it. As for factory look/function...there's really no factory function other then the clutch start switch or reverse lights both of which can be spliced in

 

how's your idle with the NSS jumped?

 

750, why?

 

Because when I searched around about the 5 speed swap I had many people tell me that their idle was not correct/ way too low because the PCM thought the vehicle was in park. Several people complained about coming to a stop with the a/c on the engine would die out when they pushed the clutch in.

 

If it does that (which neither mine nor the 96 does) then the simple solution is to wire the nss to a switch, such as maybe a clutch switch or just a toggle on the dash, if you had an early model like mine you can wire it up to the trans power/comfort switch (makes a nice security for it not getting stolen because your the only one who knows that's what it does)

 

Interesting. I was about to call this utter nonsense but I found this in my 1999 FSM:

TRANSMISSION PARK/NEUTRAL SWITCH—PCM INPUT

The park/neutral switch is located on the transmission housing and provides an input to the Powertrain Control Module (PCM). This will indicate that the automatic transmission is in Park, Neutral or a drive gear selection. This input is used to determine idle speed (varying with gear selection), fuel injector pulse width and ignition timing advance. Refer to Group 21, Transmissions, for testing, replacement and adjustment information. It is also used as a condition for speed control operation.

 

I'm a bit confused how parsnip is able to use auto driveshafts and not have the issues other people have had when they half assed their 5 speed swaps.

At the end of the day I am very happy that I listened to everyone that suggested to buy a donor jeep when I asked about doing my 5 speed swap. It sucked cause my aw4 had gone out and I was in need of a new trans at the time and aw4 trans for a 97 is big money from the junk yards cause of the 97 only connector. I ended up buying a 91-95 trans on a whim and swapped over the solenoids and the trans harness and that worked but it was still a pain. Then a few months later I saw the donor jeep at the body shop and knew that would be my only chance to get a donor jeep so I jumped on it and I'm glad I did.

Like I said in the end I made a decent amount of money on the swap and my swap is factory correct. I don't have all kinds of stuff rigged to work, everything just works like it should from the factory, looks it to. If a problem ever comes up up I just diag it as a stock vehicle. Every time I see a person ask about this swap I will continue to suggest buying a donor vehicle to use to perform the swap properly.