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Arc welder for Jeep repairs?

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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:33 PM
  #1  
theangler's Avatar
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From: Maine
Year: 1991 Laredo
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Engine: 4.0L H.O.
Default Arc welder for Jeep repairs?

Hey everyone. So I can get a GREAT deal on a little clarke 90amp 110 arc welder. My question is: can I use it for jeep repairs such as rockers, floor pans, exhaust, etc? I don't have any experience welding, but I must say without trying to toot my own horn that I am a quick learner.

I don't mind a rougher look and am not afraid to bust out the grinder, marglass and some bondo.

As always, your advice is appreciated.

Thanks!
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 10:50 PM
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Kyle42's Avatar
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From: Bloomfield, MI
Year: 1992
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Here is a decent write up about the subject. Hope it helps. I'm only a little experienced when it comes to welding. Sounds pretty good though, maybe with some small modifications.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:04 PM
  #3  
Dugualla's Avatar
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Welding sheet metal, especialy with some rust is tricky. Easy to burn through. Just read up on the subject, get some scrap material of the same general thickness, and practice on it.
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:12 PM
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I have that same welder and it works pretty good. I taught my self how to weld and they're definatly not pretty but they hold. I did the rockers and cab corners on my old chevy 3/4 ton and used a lot of grinding and bondo but the finished result was perfect. One tip for welding on sheet metal is space the beads far enough apart and LET IT COOL! if you dont, it will warp. Take your time and it will come out great. I don't know what thickness the 90 amp will weld but I think its up to 3/16? i gotta check that I want to make front and rear bumpers and a roof basket so I may invest in a mig welder if my clark isn't up to snuff for 3/16
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Old Jul 8, 2010 | 11:18 PM
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i just looked online and it says that the clark 90 amp can weld up to 1/8 in a single pass and thicker if you grind the joint in the shape of a v and make multipul passes
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 12:18 AM
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If you don't have any experience welding, my biggest piece of advice is do a ton of research and/or take a class. Learning the right way the first time will save you in the long run....tons of practice, clean your work properly and more practice!. Ideally the best method to start with is either TIG or gas welding, because you'll learn in those two methods, how to control a weld puddle and see direct results, However for used sheet metal(fenders, rockers) a tig might have trouble with contamination and gas will put too much heat into your work.

For the items you listed and skill level, I say a MIG running %75argon/%25CO2 with .023 or .030 wire. I'd Keep a roll and set of tips around for .035 too when you turn it all the way up for bumpers and tube doors too. You can pick up a used one for 400-500 bucks that will weld 3/16"-1/4" in one pass

Be safe too, invest in a good helmet and protect your skin from arc light(very intense UV light). Be knowledgable of the gases/smoke give off and don't use anti spatters with methlyene chloride. They can react under high temps to form phosgene gas(COCl2)....same stuff the Germans used. When welding galvinized metal you can develop zinc poisining too, its no usually fatal, but you'll feel likecrap for a day.

I like fabric welding coats, because they breath better, lighter and they only run $30-$35. I haven't looked at entry level helmets in a long time, but I think you can get a decent one for $150. Couple months ago I bought a Miller Elite for $350 and I love it!, but I'm in it everyday.

Heres the Miller and Lincoln website, they've got tutorials, welders forum and even a guide to help you pick out a welder

http://www.millerwelds.com/

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 12:33 AM
  #7  
R Cannon's Avatar
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Default Buy a grinder with the welder.

you can always grind away mistakes.Idealy you want a gas mig. not flux core wire. but if thats the budget just get thin electrodes and practice makes perfect. like others told you get the same gauge metal to practice with. if you have holes in the rockers you can always put sheet metal behind it and weld it after cutting the rust out usethe good green bondo to make it right. I think its 16 gauge.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 07:38 AM
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rich's Avatar
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If you want to do rockers floor pans things like this and have them HOLD and be WORTH A XXCK you need a mig.Sure you can scab something together, but even a baby arc welder like that is for thicker metals.It will be a good learner unit for you.And yes I picked up how to weld after 18 yrs of doing it at work.Remember listen to thoughs that actrully know what they are doing with a welder,you will be able to tell.(everyone wants to be a welder only a few can really weld)
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 10:30 AM
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Well I'll probably pick this arc up. Maybe in the future I'll be able to afford a MIG, but until then I'll practice with this baby.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 10:31 AM
  #10  
theangler's Avatar
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So I guess use really small electrodes and move fast for the sheetmetal using an arc? I'm sure that some people use arc welders on sheet metal (although they are probably experienced or in the same boat as me)
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 12:30 PM
  #11  
rich's Avatar
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From: morrisonville ny
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Do you have the adjustments on the welder for ac dc+ dc- if you do try 3/32 rod on dc- try 6011 or 6013 rod
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 04:28 PM
  #12  
CAEMI's Avatar
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From: Detroit, MI
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Originally Posted by EVcherokee
If you don't have any experience welding, my biggest piece of advice is do a ton of research and/or take a class. Learning the right way the first time will save you in the long run....tons of practice, clean your work properly and more practice!. Ideally the best method to start with is either TIG or gas welding, because you'll learn in those two methods, how to control a weld puddle and see direct results, However for used sheet metal(fenders, rockers) a tig might have trouble with contamination and gas will put too much heat into your work.

For the items you listed and skill level, I say a MIG running %75argon/%25CO2 with .023 or .030 wire. I'd Keep a roll and set of tips around for .035 too when you turn it all the way up for bumpers and tube doors too. You can pick up a used one for 400-500 bucks that will weld 3/16"-1/4" in one pass

Be safe too, invest in a good helmet and protect your skin from arc light(very intense UV light). Be knowledgable of the gases/smoke give off and don't use anti spatters with methlyene chloride. They can react under high temps to form phosgene gas(COCl2)....same stuff the Germans used. When welding galvinized metal you can develop zinc poisining too, its no usually fatal, but you'll feel likecrap for a day.

I like fabric welding coats, because they breath better, lighter and they only run $30-$35. I haven't looked at entry level helmets in a long time, but I think you can get a decent one for $150. Couple months ago I bought a Miller Elite for $350 and I love it!, but I'm in it everyday.

Heres the Miller and Lincoln website, they've got tutorials, welders forum and even a guide to help you pick out a welder

http://www.millerwelds.com/

http://www.lincolnelectric.com/

Excellent post.
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Old Jul 9, 2010 | 04:39 PM
  #13  
fishtaconc's Avatar
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6013 rods for sheetmetal especially when your just beginning they dont penatrate as much as 6010/11 rods use the 6011s for bumpers etc
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