Anyone have the Rusty's 4.5" spring pack lift?
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CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,640
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From: Keesler AFB, MS
Year: 1998 XJ
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
Anyone have the Rusty's 4.5" spring pack lift?
I am reading through the instructions to make sure i can do this at the house and i only have on question about this so far. step 38-40 of the instructions (can be seen at rusty's off road) says
40) Install the new longer tie bolts and nuts.
can someone post pics or explain. the phrase "if these are needed" is throwing me off. how do i know if i need them?
TIA
38)
This kit comes with axle degree shims, if these are needed for proper driveline angles, place C-clamps onto the new
Rusty’s springs to keep the springs from separating. Un-bolt the tie bolts and discard.
Rusty’s springs to keep the springs from separating. Un-bolt the tie bolts and discard.
39)
Position the new shims onto the bottom of the leaf spring with the thick end facing the rear of the vehicle.
40) Install the new longer tie bolts and nuts.
can someone post pics or explain. the phrase "if these are needed" is throwing me off. how do i know if i need them?
TIA
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2009
Posts: 51
Likes: 0
Year: 2001
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
When you lift the back end with the longer springs, your axle will no longer be in the same angle-orientation towards your transfercase. If you have a stock driveshaft, you will want your output of your transfer case and the pinion shaft on your axle to be parrallel. If they they are not, you will get excessive wear on your driveshaft u-joints, and you will notice a "rumbling" coming from your rear driveshaft. This most often is best heard when coasting (decellerating) around 40 mph in most XJ's.
If you have a CV rear driveshaft (like your stock front driveshaft), you will want your pinion shaft of your axle to point directly at your transfer case.
I saw a link on NAXJA one time with pictures that described it...I will try to find it.
Most people will install the rear springs, lower the vehicle, and check the angles of their output shaft from their Transfer case and their pinion angles. If they match, you dont need the shims. If they are different, shim the axle accordingly so they match!
If you are going to 4.5" spring packs its probably time to look at a SYE kit and a CV rear driveshaft...
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....roducts_id=153
Have your local driveline place build you a CV driveshaft...mine cost $230 and works great.
If you have a CV rear driveshaft (like your stock front driveshaft), you will want your pinion shaft of your axle to point directly at your transfer case.
I saw a link on NAXJA one time with pictures that described it...I will try to find it.
Most people will install the rear springs, lower the vehicle, and check the angles of their output shaft from their Transfer case and their pinion angles. If they match, you dont need the shims. If they are different, shim the axle accordingly so they match!
If you are going to 4.5" spring packs its probably time to look at a SYE kit and a CV rear driveshaft...
http://www.performanceoffroadcenter....roducts_id=153
Have your local driveline place build you a CV driveshaft...mine cost $230 and works great.
Last edited by nojreyd; Jul 10, 2009 at 03:24 PM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,184
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From: Ohio
Year: 1992
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 1995 ZJ 4.0
Or just get a hack-n-tap with a rebuilt front DS for $200 from http://www.ironrockoffroad.com/Merch..._Code=IR-X_HNT
Seasoned Member
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 279
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From: olive branch, ms
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
lifted 2 in my driveway no problem, although on the 2000 model the shackle on the passenger side rears bumps against its mount which is highly annoying me
Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 92
Likes: 0
Year: 99 xj
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0L
I am reading through the instructions to make sure i can do this at the house and i only have on question about this so far. step 38-40 of the instructions (can be seen at rusty's off road) says
38)
38)
This kit comes with axle degree shims, if these are needed for proper driveline angles, place C-clamps onto the new
Rusty’s springs to keep the springs from separating. Un-bolt the tie bolts and discard.
39)
Position the new shims onto the bottom of the leaf spring with the thick end facing the rear of the vehicle.
40) Install the new longer tie bolts and nuts.
40) Install the new longer tie bolts and nuts.
can someone post pics or explain. the phrase "if these are needed" is throwing me off. how do i know if i need them?
TIA
TIA
i just did this same lift a couple weeks ago .i ran into the same question . the shims are 6deg shims .i went ahead and installed them . and havent had any problems as of yet ..you are allready working in that spot .i figured it was better to install them and find out i needed them. later on ,
this will make the the axle tilt to the transfer case .but also making the lower shock studs pitch .makeing it difficult to mount the shocks(distorting the shock bushing) .also ive found you should .go the store and pick some washers up for the the lower shock nuts, as they arnt supplied.. also ive found that the nuts that come with u bolts .are alittle on the small size .so i also added grade 8 washers for these aswell .dont tourqe down till .shes on the ground. hope this helps..
this will make the the axle tilt to the transfer case .but also making the lower shock studs pitch .makeing it difficult to mount the shocks(distorting the shock bushing) .also ive found you should .go the store and pick some washers up for the the lower shock nuts, as they arnt supplied.. also ive found that the nuts that come with u bolts .are alittle on the small size .so i also added grade 8 washers for these aswell .dont tourqe down till .shes on the ground. hope this helps..
Last edited by jonesy72; Jul 10, 2009 at 08:35 PM.
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