Hey all - I'm replacing all my dash lights with LEDs. They have polarity so I had to turn several of the regular dash lights around so they would work. I just got the smaller ones in for the warning lights and I REALLY want to be sure they're working before I get this dash all put back together because I would like to NEVER have to get it out again.

Fun fact: Jeep is on jack stands in the garage since it's in the process of getting the TC rebuilt and getting new front and rear ends. So my ability to test things like the shift light is......somewhat limited.

I tried the odometer hold trick but I think that only works for later XJs. Also the seat belt one came on for a bit at the beginning, then faded away along with the loud buzz right before you start it, then I couldn't get it to fire back up again. For the record the column is a little messed up - I have to work the key back and forth a few times to get it to actually shut off AND so I can get the key out - that probably isn't helping anything.

Many thanks for any advice you can give!!

 

What lights does your warning light panel have?

 

Good question. Parking brake, Part time (of course transfer case is off and cable disconnected, of course), seat belt, check engine, low washer, and shift up.

 

Like this one?

 

Exactly like that! So I tried some more things - and the plot thickens.

I noticed that when I turn the key as far as I can without it starting, the BRAKE light shines quite brightly with the new LED in it. So, I wondered if maybe all the warning lights would be on at that stage, as I've seen in other vehicles. I flipped around the Check Engine bulb, and sure enough, it came on very dimly, but then would flicker to its full intensity. Here's a video:


So I had a look at the back, where it connects - as I'm sure you know, there's a strange plastic-wrap-like covering that conducts the power through metal strips (copper?) - cool idea but it's getting a bit worn. Here's a pic of the contacts behind Check Engine:



In the moment, I could see those marks where the contacts line up but I wasn't sure what they were - I rubbed it gently with some alcohol but the same thing happened. I now see that there are actually rips in the metal - do I need to fill that in with something that would conduct electricity?? How can I fix this?

Sure appreciate any help here!

 

Put a pencil in an electric drill and shine them up with the eraser, then try using cold solder. It's an epoxy base with copper powder in it, I believe. Near as I can tell, it require a hot air gun at about 300*F to flow the paste, or just a momentary tough with an iron

 

In regards to testing the polarity of each led:

Power 1 & 15 - Ground 16 - Low washer & Seat belt
Power 3 - Ground 2 - Check engine
Power 4 or 5 - Ground 6, 7, 8, 11 & 12 - ABS, Up shift, Brake, Full time & Part time
Power 10 - Ground 9 - Security (Not used)
Power 14 - Ground 13 - Maint required (Not used)

 

Many thanks, all - great info!

Dave, so I've always known cold solder to be a poor soldering joint - but now I see there is low-temp solder - is this it?


I confess I'll be nervous soldering on this since that plastic is so flimsy - but if this is how to fix it, I'll go for it! Basically just like normal soldering but doesn't need much heat?

Thanks for the diagram, Box - so are you saying I should run some leads from lights that are definitely on, like brake, to the others to test them? Sorry to be dense - I'm sure it's a simple answer!

 

No, you should take the cluster out and manually apply the power/grounds to where the connector plugs in on the back. The left diagram shows you what "pins" are which when looking at it from the back.

Or if it's easier, get a black marker and follow the traces from connector to bulb and mark the ground side of each. If your LEDs are marked, you'll know which way round to put them in.

 

Brilliant, that makes perfect sense. Will do it tomorrow! It will be nice when I can get this whole dash put back together again in the confidence that everything's right inside.

 

Amazon;

 

Ordered - thank you Dave!!

 

Ouch that stuff is expensive. I've used the rear window defroster repair paint for this. Looks like you might be able to position the bulb so it touches good metal and glue it in place. Avoid silicon glue that smells like vinegar as it cures at that'll eat away the trace.

 

Ok UPDATE - thanks to you all - I'm now looking at this!



So turns out I didn't even need the cold solder at all - all it really needed upon closer inspection was the old rub with the eraser trick!!! And, come to find out, the little wire leads on the smaller warning panel lights (or maybe just the cheap ones I got off Ebay!!) are VERY finnicky about being in the right position, so I was SO lucky to have your chart, Boxburn - got everything working!! At least from the back side. I plugged it up and turned the ignition to run, and everything came on except the seat belt light and Part Time - since the transfer case is in a million pieces on the garage floor, that certainly makes sense - not sure about the seat belt light, not that it worries me. I may wait until the TC is back in and test it before I button up the dash since it's a little bit of a PITA.

Anyway, I've been an XJ owner for just a few weeks and have opened up a MILLION cans of worms getting this heep where she needs to be - and this marks the FIRST project that has been brought to a semi-successful conclusion!!! I truly owe it to you all - I really appreciate your kindness and expertise here. I would have been pretty irritated to plug up all the lights, put the dash back in, and have ONE warning light functioning correctly!!

Thanks again, all!!

 

That looks great. I wish I'd swapped mine to LED when I last had it out, instead I just replaced them all with standard bulbs.

Glad to hear it's all working and I wouldn't worry about the seatbelt light. All mine does is come on with ignition then go off after a few seconds regardless of anything.