Any helpful advice for replacing hard brakeline on a '99
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CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,051
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From: Lake Zurich
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Accidentally nicked my rear brake line taking the clip off where the hardline meets the soft. I ordered a rear soft hose from a 95 yj and disconnected and pulled out the damaged hardline as well as the stock XJ soft line. I am off all day Weds 8/31 and i`m going to run to the local Napa for replacement 3/16th line.
I noticed the small three or so inch line that comes off the brake fluid res, is in great shape, so I am wondering how I should do this..... Does the Napa carry pre flared lines that I can just via union, mate my small existing three inch line to the new line and just affix the new YJ line and voila? Or do I just but a random 20 or 25 odd feet of line, measure, cut and attempt to flare myself?
Thanks for any and all advice guys, I really appreciate it
I noticed the small three or so inch line that comes off the brake fluid res, is in great shape, so I am wondering how I should do this..... Does the Napa carry pre flared lines that I can just via union, mate my small existing three inch line to the new line and just affix the new YJ line and voila? Or do I just but a random 20 or 25 odd feet of line, measure, cut and attempt to flare myself?
Thanks for any and all advice guys, I really appreciate it
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 279
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From: N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Doing the double flair is not that hard to do and the flair tool isnt that costly.
Dont forget to put the fittings on the line before doing the flair lol.
deburr the line after cutting it, clamp the line in the clamp after setting the height of the line with the notch in the proper sized 1st step flair piece,set the 1st step flair piece into the line and tighten the tool down until flush with the top of the clamp, retract the tool and remove the 1st step piece then tighten the tool again as tight as you can get it. loosen the tool, take the line out of the clamp deburr the flair if needed and thats it.
Dont forget to put the fittings on the line before doing the flair lol.
deburr the line after cutting it, clamp the line in the clamp after setting the height of the line with the notch in the proper sized 1st step flair piece,set the 1st step flair piece into the line and tighten the tool down until flush with the top of the clamp, retract the tool and remove the 1st step piece then tighten the tool again as tight as you can get it. loosen the tool, take the line out of the clamp deburr the flair if needed and thats it.
Last edited by Spoonman; Aug 30, 2011 at 12:31 AM.
CF Veteran
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 10,489
Likes: 24
From: Nor-Cal Coast
Year: 90,84
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0,2.5
Hey there Spoonman. (or anyone). I wonder what they cost? Been wrenching a long time but don't happen to have seen or done one. Done a bunch of copper, but always used pre-made brake lines. Thanks, D.
If you have an autozone nearby they rent the double flare tool. The one they have is low quality and I had to clamp it down in a shop vise rather than just hand tightening it. Do a couple practice flares then lay the old line out on the floor and bend the new one to fit. I did it for the first time this past winter on the XJ and thought it was pretty straight forward.
I bought a 25' roll of steel tube. IIRC the total cost with fittings was around $25.
I bought a 25' roll of steel tube. IIRC the total cost with fittings was around $25.
CF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 1,254
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From: London Ontario Canada
Year: 2000
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Replace the whole line like the others have said. You don't want a union anywhere in there that can cause a weak point that later fails.
I'm about to do the exact same thing. Only mine is a rust issue. Funny but the brake line was the ONLY thing rusted underneath.
Always do the double flare. You can also buy a cheap bending tool to help out. NEVER kink the line.
I'm about to do the exact same thing. Only mine is a rust issue. Funny but the brake line was the ONLY thing rusted underneath.
Always do the double flare. You can also buy a cheap bending tool to help out. NEVER kink the line.
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Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 279
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From: N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Get the flair tool and a cheap bender to help keep you from kinking the line and a roll of brake line and you will be set.
I have a flair tool and bender that I bought at Advanced auto a few years ago and it works fine, I had to return the flair tool once for an exchange when I first bought it but I have used it maybe 3 or 4 times since I bought it.And yes if you do get a cheap one you will likely have to really clamp it hard to keep the line from slipping in the clamp.If thats an issue then get your self a higher quality one but Im telling you that unless you have a lot of vehicles to do you will hardly use it.
Last edited by Spoonman; Aug 30, 2011 at 10:59 AM.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 1,051
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From: Lake Zurich
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
Ya worse comes to worse I can measure out how much line the XJ needs, semi pre-form it ( There really are not many bends surprisingly ) and bring it to a shop and have them preform a quick double flair for me if I cant get a quality tool. I here the local part store's rental tools are weak and wont do a good job.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Nov 2010
Posts: 279
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From: N.Y.
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0 L
Like I said I bought the cheap one from advanced auto and it works fine when I need it.But its up to you,Im sure you can get a shop to flair it for you it only takes a second to do.
Thread Starter
CF Veteran
Joined: Dec 2010
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From: Lake Zurich
Year: 1999
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4.0
haah my bad. Ok well..... After discussing with the Napa guy I went with a 20 foot roll of 3/16th line. Bought a few ends and I was on my way. Stopped at advance auto for a flare tool... well, they JUST put one in a mini mall near my house so my lucky butt got a brand new, never used flare kit AND a "master brake kit" with line wrenches, tube cutter, and really anything for a disc/ drum brake change.
got home, laid my line out and methodically laid out my tools and my old decrepit line next to the new line. I measured out I think 8.8 feet of line and went to work. Ok pros and cons of the kit..... pro the tube cutter worked flawlessly as did the line wrenches( duh) Con... Dear God the tube bender was a 7 dollar Chinese P.O.S.
I did 75% of the line bends by hand, and let me tell you its painful to type right now... My thumb and pointer finger are raw
. This took me apx 3 hrs to perfect and I did it on my first section of line ( no kinks or eff ups)
The flair kit worked great. very simple to use flair it one way, take the small black 3/16th flair chuck out, go at it again and voila, double flair. Installed the line Master Cyl side first ( all by my self which was not fun going constantly from my back to the engine bay) and affixed it to my brand new YJ longer rubber hose.
Bled all four corners and away I went after apx 6 hrs with on and off breaks.
got home, laid my line out and methodically laid out my tools and my old decrepit line next to the new line. I measured out I think 8.8 feet of line and went to work. Ok pros and cons of the kit..... pro the tube cutter worked flawlessly as did the line wrenches( duh) Con... Dear God the tube bender was a 7 dollar Chinese P.O.S.
I did 75% of the line bends by hand, and let me tell you its painful to type right now... My thumb and pointer finger are raw
. This took me apx 3 hrs to perfect and I did it on my first section of line ( no kinks or eff ups)The flair kit worked great. very simple to use flair it one way, take the small black 3/16th flair chuck out, go at it again and voila, double flair. Installed the line Master Cyl side first ( all by my self which was not fun going constantly from my back to the engine bay) and affixed it to my brand new YJ longer rubber hose.
Bled all four corners and away I went after apx 6 hrs with on and off breaks.
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