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antifreeze everywhere...

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Old 01-30-2013, 04:31 PM
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Alright. I got a 2000 Cherokee that started leaking, so I changed the water pump gasket (also doing the thermostat, thermostat gasket, and oil) after that I started filling it up with antifreeze, about 3/4 of the bottle in it started dripping. Coming from in between the water pump and the crank pully. So I figured it was the weap hole on the pump. Took it all apart, changed the pump and gasket out. And still have the same leak. It didn't leak while filling it, but when I started it and took it for a drive, it started leaking. Opening the hood there is antifreeze everywhere. On my battery, on the valve cover, the bottom of the hood. All over. (im assuming its the fans blowing it around) but I'm stumped on where its coming from. My weap hole on my old pump looked as if it was leaking from there. But its still doing the same thing. Anything helps
Old 01-30-2013, 04:43 PM
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Radiator caps have a tendency to spray antifreeze everywhere when they fail. Caps are under three dollars.
Old 01-30-2013, 04:45 PM
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Originally Posted by Jareduhhh
Radiator caps have a tendency to spray antifreeze everywhere when they fail. Caps are under three dollars.
It's leaking from around the water pump. It's not getting hot. It didn't even get to 210 before I stopped driving.
Old 01-30-2013, 05:28 PM
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I'd get one of those Pressure Test tools ..... clean off all the coolant from under the hood ... put in new fluid, maybe just water .... hook up the pressure test tool and start to pressurize the system .... you should be able to easily find the leak at that point.

The key is to pressurize a non running system so there is no fan wind to blow it around.

Remember, water runs downhill so follow it back up to the source.
Old 01-30-2013, 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by KD3NE
I'd get one of those Pressure Test tools ..... clean off all the coolant from under the hood ... put in new fluid, maybe just water .... hook up the pressure test tool and start to pressurize the system .... you should be able to easily find the leak at that point.

The key is to pressurize a non running system so there is no fan wind to blow it around.

Remember, water runs downhill so follow it back up to the source.
That would maybe help.. but the thing is. Is I know the area its coming from. But I replaced everything around the area. It seems like its coming from maybe behind the crank pully.. concidering I've changed the water pump... maybe a cracked head it will leak down the front, then down the oil pan lip and down the exhaust and steams like a train.. just hoping someone else has had the same thing maybe...
Old 01-30-2013, 05:42 PM
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Try moving the fan back and forth. If it moves at all (as in a noticeable amount of movement), your water pump is bad. Even tho you can usually hear the water pump when it goes out.. usually sounds like a pretty bad engine knock. And x2 on the cap, replace it and see if thats your problem, its cheap and yours could probably use replacing anyways.
Old 01-30-2013, 06:25 PM
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Originally Posted by xj_maniac_newb
Try moving the fan back and forth. If it moves at all (as in a noticeable amount of movement), your water pump is bad. Even tho you can usually hear the water pump when it goes out.. usually sounds like a pretty bad engine knock. And x2 on the cap, replace it and see if thats your problem, its cheap and yours could probably use replacing anyways.
I have electric fans. And I just put a new pump in. It's not leaking from the cap. Read my posts and you'll change your mind.
Old 01-30-2013, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by JamDeeper
I have electric fans. And I just put a new pump in. It's not leaking from the cap. Read my posts and you'll change your mind.
Then i would try this.

Originally Posted by KD3NE
I'd get one of those Pressure Test tools ..... clean off all the coolant from under the hood ... put in new fluid, maybe just water .... hook up the pressure test tool and start to pressurize the system .... you should be able to easily find the leak at that point.

The key is to pressurize a non running system so there is no fan wind to blow it around.

Remember, water runs downhill so follow it back up to the source.
Old 01-31-2013, 03:17 AM
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Are there freeze plugs anywhere on the front of the block?
Old 01-31-2013, 02:02 PM
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Originally Posted by JamDeeper
Are there freeze plugs anywhere on the front of the block?
I don't know if there are or not but this I do know .....

A pressure test would be the most definitive test.
Old 01-31-2013, 03:16 PM
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just a thought .... did you thighten all the bolt and use rtv blue ?????
Old 01-31-2013, 03:21 PM
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and from what i see there are no freeze plgs on the front
Old 01-31-2013, 03:53 PM
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No freeze plugs on front. I was also curious if you used RTV and proper torque.

Either way, you'll need a pressure test.
Old 01-31-2013, 04:54 PM
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Originally Posted by JamDeeper
Alright. I got a 2000 Cherokee that started leaking,
Did it freeze solid?
Old 02-01-2013, 06:23 AM
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In the past I have done at least three water pumps on three different 4.0 engines, not to mention a few on Chrysler FWD vehicle where you have to partially dismantle the motor just to get to the water pump. On those vehicles when you do a water pump you also do the timing belt because the belt has to come off to get the pump out.

I won't use Silicon RTV on water pumps anymore.

Always use this stuff ......



It comes in brush on cans, but we found that the spray on works much better because of a consistent even coating.

Applied to both sides of the gasket, and installed with all contact surfaces 100% dry, I've never had a leak after installation.

We had one Chrsler LeBaron that just would not seal up, after two times pulling and reinstalling THAT pump we went out in search of answers. An old guy at a shop told us " never use Silicon RTV on water pumps ".


I should note that we were fighting with a water pump on a FWD Chrysler car using RTV, doing everything right and still getting leaks when someone told us to try the adhesive shown above.

Never again will we use RTV on a Water Pump install.


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