For those worried about galvanic corrosion from aluminum anti-seize, give the nickel variety a try. Especially if one of the parts is stainless.

On the dielectric grease front, it looks like the plain silicone brake parts paste is the same stuff. Whichever is cheaper should work fine in either application. If you want to get fancy pants with your brakes, and seriously, who doesn't, PERMATEX 80653 Silicone Ceramic Extreme Brake Parts Lubricant could be the hammer for that mole. But I have doubts that it can double as dielectric grease.

 

That's good info. How did you come to this conclusion? On the dielectric grease info... with brake grease being the same stuff...??? MSDS ingredients breakdown with the same percentage of ingredients?

 

No, more simple but that would be a good thing to look at for the brake grease/dielectric comparison.

They both have similar consistencies, both are primarily silicone, and the original application was for high temp environments. Dielectric was originally made for high voltage switching where a petroleum product would leave carbon (conductive, undesirable) residue if burnt from arcing. Seems like they just found more places to market it, which are good applications btw.

The ceramic variety I have my doubts for it being good for electrical, since when you squish it out you have those ceramic particles getting in the way of the metal parts that need to get close enough for a connection.

 

Whats the worse thing that can happen? It doesn't make good contact and you have to wipe it off...??? I'd say its worth a try if all you have is the silicone brake grease and you're in need of dielectric grease.

 

True.

My version is just get the best value in plain Permatex or 3M silicone paste and have that on hand. If you have time to grab the fancy stuff before a brake job, add that to the box.

 

anti-seize or loctite, no thread goes undressed... old time mechanic daily lecture to me for years....

 

I don't think that lecture holds true for all situations...some situations the bolts must be dry torqued as they require a torque and angle spec. You will be surprised how much torque is affected by them.

 

Bingo. Blindly applying chemicals to fasteners is NOT a good plan.

 

Agreed. In my job I have to have yearly "torque training and refresher" and there is plenty to say about torquing on top of just putting the torque wrench to the NUT and spinning until you get the click. Running torque, breakaway torque, final torque, and all the types of friction that is involved with all of the above. Some fasteners will have an 80% running torque, meaning they can have a good amount of resistance while getting tight,then they finally hit the final torque. Applying anti-sieze will greatly effect the running torque hence not achieving the proper final torque.

 

Proper potion for the application.

 

Yup.

I like the advice on the nickel based antifreeze. I didn't know it existed.

Alas, I think I have a lifetime supply of the aluminum based!

 

I believe you mean "anti-seize", not "antifreeze"...???

 

I think I'm tired!

Been fighting the flu that's going around. Rough stuff. 3 weeks now. Still exhausted.

 

You didn't have to go to China to get your parts. They will ship them now.

 

Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahhaa . I'll take that coronavirus with a slice of lime.

What goes best with coronavirus?...................................... .................................................. .................................................. ....................... Lymes disease..