I have an `88 4.0 automatic XJ that needs some help. It is dry-heaving on start-up. Eventually, it does crank, but first several starter cycles it "dry heaves."

Sounds like an electrical problem; I've checked the battery and alternators at the local auto store and both read good. I've changed the battery leads and cleaned the battery posts. I am definitely getting good current to the starter pole as I grounded it to the frame accidently and was bathed in a brief shower of sparks.

Im down to the starter and solenoid. Doubt its the solenoid, because I have enough juice to crank it.... belatedly.... I believe the starter is going.

Does this sound about right to you guys? Have I missed something in my logic/ trouble shooting?

I looked across a couple of pages of "starter" search results and didnt come across my prblem although I bet it is buried in there somewhere.... not to annoy with a repost, but.....

Thanks ahead of time.

 

Tap on the starter with a hammer and see if turns over any quicker,if it does then change the starter,what happens is the brushes get worn and dust built up on them. You could remove it and have it tested also.

 

If you checked the battery and alternator, then it's probably the starter. My buddy had a Wagoneer that needed a couple taps from a hammer to get it started all the time. He changed the starter and it worked great. You can also get the started tested when you take it out, and if it's bad, it might be cheaper to get it rebuilt instead of buying a new one.

 

That is just about what I expected... Thanks a lot for the input. Its an easy enough fix.

Happy Holidays.

 

Yea, pops out right from the bottom, not too bad to do with hand tools. Glad we could help you. Happy Holidays to you too.

 

88 = RENIX. RENIX has its own quirks...

Before you go dropping the starter motor, secure a better ground for your engine by clamping one end of a booster cable to a clean bit of the engine, and the other end to the battery NEG post. See if it starts any quicker. If it does, renew the ground (battery to near the dipstick.) If it doesn't, repeat by grounding the engine to a clean bit on the chassis (no rust required, no paint preferred.) If it starts quicker, renew the engine-to-chassis ground and consider adding a direct chassis ground.

The issue with RENIX is that it won't fire the fuel injection or ignition until it sees ~300rpm at the crankshaft - and your grounds going sour on you will slow down the speed with which the starter motor will build up speed at the crankshaft. I don't know why AMC/Renault/Bendix decided to do that, but they did.

Also, the fuel system can "lose prime pressure' over time - due to a failed/faling check valve in the fuel pump. Easy fix? There's a fuel-rated check valve (BMW part, don't recall the number) for ~$20 that can be patched into the line forward. It's cheaper and easier than a fuel pump! Test fr this by turning the key to ON and letting the fuel pump run for a few seconds before you try to crank the engine. If that works, fuel pump or check valve.