Cranks but won't catch. My dad drove of a few weeks ago and it died on him while moving. I drove it to work after a longer than normal start up, but now nothing.
-fuel pump is going
-ill know about spark in a while
-tapped the CPS with a wrench, heard that helps
Anything I might be missing? Its a very vague and very open ended problem I know.
Thanks for the help

 

No spark... any ideas?

 

Gonna try replacing the cps first.

 

Got a digital meter?

There is more complete stuff in my signature but if it's 90 or earlier,

AC voltage CPS test; Small clips on the meter leads really helps.

Unplug the connector at the back of the manifold with wires going down to the bell-housing/cps.
Probe the two wires to the cps with the meter set on AC volts. (a 200 scale on mine).
Crank the engine and note the voltage. (jump it if your battery is low)

Mine somehow works with only .3 my wiring/grounds must be pretty spiffy. .5 seems to be a good mark. One article talked of .5 to .8. **Update, it soon failed. I installed Napa #css980 in my 90.**

If it's low you can modify the cps. With the next largest bit that won't fit in the hole, enlarge the hole's in the bracket just a tad. Now when mounting it's crucial to maintain firm downward pressure on it while tightening the bolts. An assistant could help with that from above.

 

Besides checking spark, you could giver' a shot of starting fluid..just to see if it fires with fuel.Also it might be flooded if the little map tube from the inside of the TB, back up to the MAP up there on the firewall is broken, plugged or off.
Also there is a fuel pressure testing port on the rail. Has a "Schrader" (tire type valve). If you depress that it should squirt fuel into the rag you are holding there.

CPS Test might be a good start in any case.

 

Thanks for the reply! I checked out that thread, looks like I've got some cleaning to do!
Tried starting it today nothing.
Unplugged/replugged cps - started just fine and ran great.
Unplugged, checked voltage: .235vac
I have the new part all ready to go just gotta get done with work.
Thanks for your help!

 

Strange, the new one cranks out close to the same voltage... starts just fine though. Again, thanks for your help I appreciate it

 

??? You are the second guy in a week to see a low voltage...My new Echlin from Napa gave me .4 after installing it, but it's been .5 since. (last spring). I'm learning myself...most of the fuel injection stuff here on CF, besides dealing with my own for a bit over 10 years. Besides the AC voltage, the "standard" test from the FSM is...200 ohm's (+, --), 75 while it's "hot". I just suggested to another poster HE try that...if that were out of spec it would be "solid ground's" to exchange it for another...His resistance was within spec. 212 cold and 225 hot IIRC. What brand did you buy? I ask partly because sometimes a production line cranks our a bunch of the same thing.

Yea! Funny! Who knew the dipstick mount was so crucial! Glad you got'r goen.

 

I got one from autozone, their "duralast" I couldn't justify spending 70-80 dollars for a mopar one from the dealer. Plus its got a lifetime warranty. My ohm readings were 280 ish on both, but I read somewhere that even a failing sensor will read within ohm spec. which makes sense, the circuit is still intact just not sending a strong enough pulse.

 

Yea, you can actually find that in Cruisers writings in my signature. So..your resistance is too high per the FSM, (by 5 ohms), the AC voltage test shows it's too low, and you have a warranty on it. Guess you DID say "lifetime". You still got grease under your fingernails? Maybe see if you can get one in spec...save having to wash your hands again! I'm not trying to be smart! Just.. sory man, maybe you got a bad one.