Thank you so much you guys! I'll take the alt out in the morning have it tested just in case, pick up a new one along with some battery terminals (the current ones are a chewed up a bit) and replace those while the battery charges.

 

Parts stores can test it in the parking lot with the alternator still in the vehicle, while the car is running. From the sounds of it though, you may as well take it off and get a new one. There will be a core charge for the new alternator.

 

yea it was a hundred buck after the core. i also picked up a new ground strap for the back of the valve cover to the body. I'm still not reading ~14 volts on the IP voltmeter tho. I checked the voltage at the battery this morning before taking the alternator and what not out. i had 11.88 at the battery with the motor off and slightly less with the motor running. i haven't tested it yet with the new alternator and ground strap yet to see if its lying to me or not. Any suggestions?

 

Install the new Alternater, re-test.

 

getting ~13 off and ~15 on at the battery with the DMM. But, the instrument panel voltmeter was still showing less than 14. So I hooked the battery up on a trickle charge last night until the meter said 100 (it was at 75% when i hooked it up). Threw THAT back in this morning and its still showing less than 14! also, when i first start her up the IP VM is real low and comes up slowly to half way between the low mark and 14 middle as it idles for about a minute. It reaches almost 14 when i start driving. when i put the heat on it dips and doesn't come back up like its supposed to.

So, the battery tests okay with the motor off and okay when its on, i even charged it! and still this remains a mystery to me. is the vm gauge lying to me? how much do you think a new gauge would be?