Rodstintshop

I have a 2000 jeep that is no getting a charge to the battery but the alternator is good and I have new wire ran from alt to battery and to fuse box and ground from the block what else could it be wrong I'm at loss!

cpnwrench

Are we talking "NEW" power cable from alternator to the battery? did you notice if the "old" one had the in line fuseable link?

also, is your battery fully charged? I would go by what the specs say on the connections (from Haynes manual or the JEEP shop manual, or chiltons.)

meter out the connections (12dcv) and also continuity checks to ground.

thats where I would start......also look for the obvious connections......

nuts tightened down real well, batt posts clean and cables cinched down well.....etc etc.

hope it helps.

cpnwrench

Rodstintshop

The old one did have a fuse in the cable does that matter if so can I just put a online fuse in it

LT6916

I would do it like Jeep had it set up. You didn't change the gauge of the wire for any of them did you?

Ianf406

maybey your battery is just completly shot.. happened to me once.. just died and would no longer charge or hold a charge of any kind..

dukie564

battery terminals could be shot. I'd look at replacing the terminals and cleaning up the posts of the battery really well.

Also get your battery LOAD TESTED (which is very different than just measuring the voltage)

Rodstintshop

Would it hurt if I want to larger wire don't think it would but just want to see

Diesel

No, it would help. 4ga is the largest youll need.

Rodstintshop

What I was thinking also

goblinish15

Voltage regulator

Rodstintshop

Is it not in the alt

99KeeSport

So you did a voltage reading on the battery with the Jeep off (should have read 12 volts), then you did another voltage reading on the battery when the car was idling (should have read ~14 volts?)?

Details on the diagnostics you already accomplished helps us know where to go next.

If your alternator is in fact putting out ~14 volts, test the battery for 700 CCA (cold cranking amps). How old is the battery? Have you seen any other indications power-wise (i.e. dash lights flickering, gauges acting up, etc)? Is your serpentine belt loose/worn (alternator may not be spinning as it should be)?

I think putting the same type of cable that was on there is a good start.

Write back with the points where/when you take voltage readings. This will give us a better chance of doing the diagnosis and "process of elimination".

TCSwizz

okay. so, im having the same problem here and im not too familiar with electrical systems or multi-meters for that matter. I do have a multi-meter though! Ive had a severe loss of electrical power to the point where my radio shut on and off and eventually just stayed off, then the voltage meter plummeted to 9ish and thats when the speedo and tach quit. And the odd thing was that she run okay. A little sluggish on pickup but never any hesitation or skipping. Then just as i got home the seat belt little came on along with a buzzing sound. I'm thinking its the alternator but i've heard of people having regulator issues, bad/loose belts, battery terminals and cables, the list goes on. I will check the terminals and wires in the morning and take the alternator out and over to autozone. The battery is barely a month and a half old, don't know how much that means haha. if that all checks out where should i start?

96' cherokee country 4.0L 4x4

dukie564

That's not a cable problem, that's definitely an alternator problem. The computer automatically cuts off non-essential systems as the voltage drops.

You can take the alternator to your local auto parts store to get bench tested, but i'll almost guarantee that it's gone bad and you need a new one. Replace it and charge your battery fully before restarting (you could burn up the new alternator otherwise).

99KeeSport

Yep, alternator for sure. Remember, vehicle's do not 'run' on a battery.