I have a 99 Xj and bought a Duralast alternator that appears to be internally regulated, where as I have, what I believe is, an external regulator with three wires that bolted to the back of my old alternator. Unfortunately, I left my old alternator for the core charge when I bought the new one because, at a quick glance, they appeared the same and autozone only had one part listed for the jeep - seemed like the right part to me. At any rate, do I just leave what I think is the external regulator (little plastic box with two prongs and a wire coming off it) disconnected and only hook up the main connection to the post? I am pretty clueless about wiring, but I also live 40 miles from the auto part store without another means of transportation, so any and all help would be greatly appreciated.

 

O.K. Well, the one I bought is externally regulated after all. So, I have this thing that I believe was a regulator that I need to figure out how to hook up as it doesn't just bolt right on. There is also a connection to the alternator that I have nothing to plug into. I am confused.

 

On 1991-up, that "black box" on the back of the alternator (that's part of the harness) is merely a "convenience block" - ChryCo likes to do those, because they apparently don't trust their mechs (like having one for the starter motor - one lead is 6AWG, one is 14AWG. The 6AWG has an 8mm ring, the 14AWG has a 4mm lead. How can you possibly screw those up?!?)

The regulator for the 1991-up is actually a part of the engine control computer (PCM) - and is external to the alternator. It is not part of the harness.

You would restore all connections as they were on the original unit. If they gave you an internally-regulated alternator, they gave you the wrong part - all Jeeps 1991 and up use an externally-regulated Nippondenso alternator (except for some high-end units that use a Bosch, but it's still externally-regulated and will probably swap with the ND. The Bosch units, as I recall, are 136A or 160A.)

 

^^^ What he said

 

I have a 92 XJ 4.0L with what I assume is a 90A alternator. I've been planning a few electronics upgrades, but since my alternator is going out, I thought I'd be better off upgrading it now rather than later.

I've been reading up on this upgrade for a while now, but I still can't quite find an exact answer for a few things.

I was curious if doing the upgrade to OEM part #56027913 (136A) will require any wiring upgrades? Also, I read that you can just use the 7 groove pulley in a particular way or swap to the 6 groove pulley. What are the pros and cons of each? Does using the 7 groove pulley wear out the belt faster? About how long does this upgrade take including grinding the bracket to make it fit?

 

1) OEM wiring is usually "just enough" for the OEM application, with a fairly low intended duty cycle at 100% output. If you plan to use your capacity, you should upgrade. I shan't recommend any upgrade, since my opinion is heavily biased...

2) If you're going to upgrade your alternator to use the capacity, upgraded wiring is a must.

3) Using the 7-groove pully will not increase belt wear. Leave the front-most groove empty, put the belt on the rear six.

4) Upgrading up to (and through) the 117A unit will require no mechanical modification. Upgrading to the 136A or 160A unit means going to a larger frame size for your alternator - you'll have to grind away about 1/4" of material at the mounting to make it fit (set the unit in place, you'll see where you need to grind immediately. The alternator's frame must not touch the engine castings, but clearance of a piece of paper - about 0.003" - is plenty.

I don't know how much time is involved, but most people don't seem to have any complaints about the process. NB: If there's aluminum that wants grinding and you don't have stones that will grind aluminum, have a bar of cheap soap in your other hand, and load the stone with soap frequently. (Aluminum forms a "gummy" chip, and will load a stone horribly unless it's meant for grinding aluminum. A loaded stone, if you use it, will overheat and rupture during use. Loading the stone with soap will allow the stone to grind, but will prevent the stone being loaded with aluminum - just keep it loaded. If you see silver streaks in the stone surface, set it aside and dress it later to remove the surface - or, if it's cheap, toss it and load the replacement with soap more frequently.)

 

Part Number: RAY 2138632
Product Line: NAPA Power Premium Plus

Attributes:
Alternator Amperage : 136 Amp
Pulley Type : 6 Groove
Voltage Regulator Type : External


I am about to do this mod to my 96 xj country and i found this at napa auto for $105.00 online.

 

My new to me from the Bone Yard alt is making a Bearing noise now. I might get a bigger amp alt and do this too.

 

Is this a direct bolt on? Or does grinding need to be done as well?

Sorry if I'm trudging up an old thread, but I'm trying to get info.

Also when swapping to a 136A alternator what size fuse should I be running on? I have the 5-90 cable upgrade

 

Some grinding needs to be done on the alternator body and the bracketry to fit the larger alternator, and yes cable upgrades for sure.

When you do the 5-90 cables, the red wire from the alternator needs to pass though a main fuse of at least 140amps before it enters the fuse box/distribution center. You can use an ANL fuse, or a circuit breaker like I chose to use.

 

Ah ok. I already have the cables.

I have the ANL fuse block. I guess I'll pick up a 140/150A fuse, that seems to be what I can find.

 

I have a 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo with the inline 6, what alternator could I upgrade to? I want to go as high output as possible, and a new one is out of the question (don't have the funds to spend $100+ on a new alternator, but can justify buying one from a parts yard). If no one responds I understand, this thread is almost 5 years old.

 

what year jeep do you have? I just ordered it for my 2001 but now I’m worried it might not have the same plug?? Any help?

 

I just installed a 160 amp unit that physically fit in the same modified bracket that my 136 amp upgrade did 100,000 miles ago. 2003 Dodge Durango shows this alternator as an option. Blanchard Electric in Bremerton WA ordered it for me and had the pulley I needed.. so I cannot guarantee which model exactly he ordered but I will ask the next time I'm in for parts there.