C1 pins 8 & 9 are the two main power feeds to the Instrument Cluster. There's no need to start chasing other fuses. If you probed C1 pin 6 as the meter ground, it shows the ground at G108 is good; you didn't mention, however, if you checked continuity of C2 pin 9 like I mentioned.

Make very sure that C2 pins and the pin sockets 1 & 2 are not corroded (gray or black appearance) and that the pin sockets are not enlarged from people shoving probes into them. Same with C1 pin sockets 8 & 9.

With everything reassembled, check voltages at the DLC one more time. Pin socket 3 to 4 or 5, and 11 to 4 or 5 (Key to RUN).

Check the termination resistors in the PCM by disconnecting the battery negative cable, then using an Ohmmeter, read between DLC pin sockets 3 and 11. You should see 120 Ohms. If not you'll need to start checking wires.

Tip concernng fuse 9 in the JB and fuse 16 in the PDC: I recommend using those mini fuses that light up when the fuse blows. O'reilly carries these fuses. They come in handy when troubleshooting problems like yours. Keeps you from constantly pulling the fuses and eyeballing them to see if they're blown.

 

If your not getting power to fuses would it not make sense to figure out why b4 you dive into more complicated trouble shooting ?

 

C1 pin 6 and c2 pin 9 have continuity. I checked by touching firewall to each pin. Ill have to check pcm ohms tomorrow. Weather supposed to be nicer tomorrow so ill really have to dig in.

 

I think you're talking about fuses 6 and 16 in the JB.

6 is instrument cluster lights (amongst others) off the Headllamp switch.

16 is the Right Headlamp off the Headlamp Beam Select Switch.

 

According to link I posted 16 on interior fuse panel is related to instrument cluster ....are any other fuses not showing power theres been cases where interior fuse pane has corroded circuit boards causing electrical isssues.

 

Fuse 16 in the PDC would be for the instrument cluster but he already determined it is providing power to the cluster.

Fuse 16 in the JB is for the Right Headlamp, off the Headlamp Beam Select Switch.

He already checked the JB and it looks okay.

 

I'm gonna start off by checking dlc volts than pcm ohms today. Here we go again!

 

DLC pin 3 and 11 to pin 4 or 5 have 2.34-2.39 volts. DLC pin 3 to 11 only has 60 ohms.

 

I had jeep running and tried wiggling pcm connector and nothing. Disconnected neg battery cable and checked ohms at dlc while wiggling pcm connector and still only 60 ohms. What's next? This is driving me crazy.

 

What's it mean when I'm only getting 60 ohms and not 120?

 

It appears as though the termination resistors in the PCM are not functioning.

I'll get a pic of the PCM connector pinout and you can check the resistance at the PCM.

I'll be back later.

 

Here's PCM connector C3 (Gry connector). Disconnect C3 from the PCM and read between pins C28 and C30 in the PCM and see what resistance you get.

 

I'm getting 120ohms. What's this mean? Pcm bad. I measured from the connector side not pcm.

 

I don't understand what you just said. Weren't you going to measure the pins in the PCM. The termination resistors are IN the PCM.

 

Oh I measured the connector. Ill have to remove the air to test. Ill do that now get the right numbers. Thanks for all the help by the way.