New here guys.
This is the deal... I pulled the 4.0 and had it rebuilt on a 1995 2 door. I took pics before the tear down but my phone went in the lake so there is that 😂. Picked this dude up for free from my brother in law. It had a blown head gasket and 187k on it so I decided to just pull the motor and have it rebuilt fresh. Put a rustys header all new accessories new radiator. New ignition. I have a 3" rusty's and some 31" Cooper at3's to put on when I can figure out why the thing is overheating. Any suggestions there would be helpful to. Little man is cleaning daddy's "geep" with that branch lol

i have a couple of plugs that I don't know what to do with lol.

 

When, how and verified by what? Does it have any coolant in it?

 

Yes it has coolant. All I have is a light. And within 5 minutes of startup. I have an aftermarket gauge that I bought but haven't figured out how to install due to the fact that the sending unit controls timing. It does boil so I know it's overheating. New thermostat,water pump, sending unit thermocouples, radiator. First thought was timing but that can't be it on this motor so I don't know.

 

Anyone?

 

The 2nd pic i think is the DLC? The 3rd pic looks like the hood light connector. Dont know what the others are. Cruise maybe?

Are the radiator hoses hot or cold when it overheats? What brand thermostat? Bleed hole at 12 o'clock? How old is the radiator cap? Caps can weaken with age, allowing coolant to escape thru evaporation, or not relieving pressure in the system, which creates heat. Not low on oil, are you? Could be anything causing coolant to boil. Need to retrace your steps.

 

I'm suspicious there is still air in there. You sure you put the weep hole in the T-Stat at 12:00? (as mentioned). That let's air out. My Renix can be tricky to burp, sometimes I park at an angle. Also did you know you can put the T-stat in boiling water to verify it's opening.....Also the spring goes towards the engine. Is your E-Fan coming on? Yea, there is no timing adjustment, puter' controlled.

Side issue, is the light bright or dim? A gauge sender is a variable resistor to bring the gauge up gradually, where a light sender is a switch. A gauge sender on a light might bring it on dim pretty fast...if I have that right.

One reason to overheat quick is a fubar head gasket. Easy enough to fill it to the brim with the cap off, and power-brake it. If it bubbles or geysers they got something wrong there. Some surging is normal.

 

Thanks I'll try to. Burp it again 👍

 

New water pump? Could be rotating the wrong way. Can't remember what year there was a change, but that can be a common problem

 

Well... I found where the plugs go. I have yet to determine why I'm over heating. Put a new temp sender for the front in the them. housing. For some reason the e fan won't come on unless I unplug the temp sender. All the fuses look good. I checked rotation on the pump and it's good. Got all the air out I could. Checked the thermostat with boiling water. 😞 Getting pretty frustrated.

 

But I got the lift and tires on 😊

 

Yea, is there flow? Does the lower hose get hot?

Yea! Too Cool, looks great! I like that look.

 

Ya got a mechanical fan and an electric one ?

 

.

 

Yes I have both. I hot wired the e fan to 12v an it keeps it cooler but the lights it'll faintly glows now.... I ordered a replacement cluster that has tach/oil/temp/volt said I can see exactly what I'm dealing with. Initially it did not overheat after Hotwiring the fan but after the test drive I let it run for 10 minutes and the light came on faintly