Advice on a cherokee
Senior Member
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 904
Likes: 3
From: Maine
Year: 1999 Sport
Model: Cherokee
Engine: I6
'99. Been my daily driver for 9 years in 2 more weeks. Absolutely awesome vehicle. Ive kept up with basic maintenance and only had a few minor problems over the years, mostly due to my own fault, like a front right wheel bearing because of all the potholes I hit, etc. Im doing a major overhaul of stuff this summer because I found a leak in the firewall thats been flooding my floor and its rotted now, but an entire floor pan is only costing me $180 so its not that big a deal. Carpet will cost me more than that. And like someone mentioned, everything Ive heard is the late '90's are the best.
Seasoned Member
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Southern oregon
Year: 1987
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 89 4.0l swap
87 thru 90 are horrible unless the drivetrain has been rebuilt (you know, engine, tranny, t-case, etc.) so stay away unless you have cash or its been rebuilt. If you do find one that has been rebuilt, jump on it quick; i have an 87 4.0 that is just amazing
Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 liter
96-98. NO 99-2001s as they are prone to cracking heads/gaskets.
Make sure it has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end, NOT a Dana 35.
Basically if it's a newer XJ and it has ABS then you've got a Dana 35.
8.25s didn't have ABS in the newer models.
The automatics are awesome, and relatively maintenance free trannies, aside from a religious fluid change every 30K.
98 would be the best year, unless you can finds a 99 without the o331 head on it, then you'll get a tiny bit more HP due to a nicer intake but it'll lose a bit of low end torque.
Check the condition of ALL fluids before buying, and be aware often the seller will have new fluids in it already so that the perspective buyer can't notice that the old oil was milky, or the rad fluid was brown.
Ask lots of questions, and ask the same ones a few apart in a different way. 'Lemon brokers' think they're clever till ya start pounding them with questions.
Oh, one more thing. If you buy from a dealer know that they payed about a 1/3 to 1/4 of what they're "bottom line" is to you. Know also whoever the poor sap is they bought that XJ they're selling you from totally got screwed.
That 5500 98 XJ on the lot all shiny?? They paid 1800 at best, probably in a trade. They only fix enough to keep it together till ya buy it so do not trust them when they say (and they will) "everything works great! No Probs".
IF they mention repairing or replacing cooling components be wary it may have overheated significantly shortening it's life.
Buy private if at all possible. Private sellers tend to be more honest since, well, you now know where they LIVE lol.
Heck find someone in your local chapter to go with. 2 on 1 is much better odds for inspecting and ESPECIALLY haggling price if you find a winner.
Good luck and welcom to the addiction.
Make sure it has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end, NOT a Dana 35.
Basically if it's a newer XJ and it has ABS then you've got a Dana 35.
8.25s didn't have ABS in the newer models.
The automatics are awesome, and relatively maintenance free trannies, aside from a religious fluid change every 30K.
98 would be the best year, unless you can finds a 99 without the o331 head on it, then you'll get a tiny bit more HP due to a nicer intake but it'll lose a bit of low end torque.
Check the condition of ALL fluids before buying, and be aware often the seller will have new fluids in it already so that the perspective buyer can't notice that the old oil was milky, or the rad fluid was brown.
Ask lots of questions, and ask the same ones a few apart in a different way. 'Lemon brokers' think they're clever till ya start pounding them with questions.
Oh, one more thing. If you buy from a dealer know that they payed about a 1/3 to 1/4 of what they're "bottom line" is to you. Know also whoever the poor sap is they bought that XJ they're selling you from totally got screwed.
That 5500 98 XJ on the lot all shiny?? They paid 1800 at best, probably in a trade. They only fix enough to keep it together till ya buy it so do not trust them when they say (and they will) "everything works great! No Probs".
IF they mention repairing or replacing cooling components be wary it may have overheated significantly shortening it's life.
Buy private if at all possible. Private sellers tend to be more honest since, well, you now know where they LIVE lol.
Heck find someone in your local chapter to go with. 2 on 1 is much better odds for inspecting and ESPECIALLY haggling price if you find a winner.
Good luck and welcom to the addiction.
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Member
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 198
Likes: 0
From: Portland OR
Year: 96
Model: Cherokee
Engine: 4 liter
One more thing.
Take it to a gravel (NOT pavement) stretch, shift to 4 hi rolling and test.
Burnout once or twice in the gravel to check marks and verify 4 is working correctly.
Then shift to 4 low, and WORK IT!!! Any transfer case issues tend to become apparent at high RPMS in 4 low IMO.
Listen for anything besides the beautifull whine of those planetaries working.
Take it to a gravel (NOT pavement) stretch, shift to 4 hi rolling and test.
Burnout once or twice in the gravel to check marks and verify 4 is working correctly.
Then shift to 4 low, and WORK IT!!! Any transfer case issues tend to become apparent at high RPMS in 4 low IMO.
Listen for anything besides the beautifull whine of those planetaries working.
96-98. NO 99-2001s as they are prone to cracking heads/gaskets.
Make sure it has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end, NOT a Dana 35.
Basically if it's a newer XJ and it has ABS then you've got a Dana 35.
8.25s didn't have ABS in the newer models.
The automatics are awesome, and relatively maintenance free trannies, aside from a religious fluid change every 30K.
98 would be the best year, unless you can finds a 99 without the o331 head on it, then you'll get a tiny bit more HP due to a nicer intake but it'll lose a bit of low end torque.
Check the condition of ALL fluids before buying, and be aware often the seller will have new fluids in it already so that the perspective buyer can't notice that the old oil was milky, or the rad fluid was brown.
Ask lots of questions, and ask the same ones a few apart in a different way. 'Lemon brokers' think they're clever till ya start pounding them with questions.
Oh, one more thing. If you buy from a dealer know that they payed about a 1/3 to 1/4 of what they're "bottom line" is to you. Know also whoever the poor sap is they bought that XJ they're selling you from totally got screwed.
That 5500 98 XJ on the lot all shiny?? They paid 1800 at best, probably in a trade. They only fix enough to keep it together till ya buy it so do not trust them when they say (and they will) "everything works great! No Probs".
IF they mention repairing or replacing cooling components be wary it may have overheated significantly shortening it's life.
Buy private if at all possible. Private sellers tend to be more honest since, well, you now know where they LIVE lol.
Heck find someone in your local chapter to go with. 2 on 1 is much better odds for inspecting and ESPECIALLY haggling price if you find a winner.
Good luck and welcom to the addiction.
Make sure it has a Chrysler 8.25 rear end, NOT a Dana 35.
Basically if it's a newer XJ and it has ABS then you've got a Dana 35.
8.25s didn't have ABS in the newer models.
The automatics are awesome, and relatively maintenance free trannies, aside from a religious fluid change every 30K.
98 would be the best year, unless you can finds a 99 without the o331 head on it, then you'll get a tiny bit more HP due to a nicer intake but it'll lose a bit of low end torque.
Check the condition of ALL fluids before buying, and be aware often the seller will have new fluids in it already so that the perspective buyer can't notice that the old oil was milky, or the rad fluid was brown.
Ask lots of questions, and ask the same ones a few apart in a different way. 'Lemon brokers' think they're clever till ya start pounding them with questions.
Oh, one more thing. If you buy from a dealer know that they payed about a 1/3 to 1/4 of what they're "bottom line" is to you. Know also whoever the poor sap is they bought that XJ they're selling you from totally got screwed.
That 5500 98 XJ on the lot all shiny?? They paid 1800 at best, probably in a trade. They only fix enough to keep it together till ya buy it so do not trust them when they say (and they will) "everything works great! No Probs".
IF they mention repairing or replacing cooling components be wary it may have overheated significantly shortening it's life.
Buy private if at all possible. Private sellers tend to be more honest since, well, you now know where they LIVE lol.
Heck find someone in your local chapter to go with. 2 on 1 is much better odds for inspecting and ESPECIALLY haggling price if you find a winner.
Good luck and welcom to the addiction.
Hey I just found this site and registered here so hi everybody!!!
The question I had is im looking to buy one soon as well and was wondering what the best would be just for driving everyday not off road use to much. Which gets the best gas mileage out of the years and what about do they get in the way of mileage?
Also how do I find out what rear end and tranny is in them or if the got the o331 head on it so i dont get that one?
I doubt the guy that has it will really even know what it is so what should i look for? sorry if thats a silly question but I dont know much on where to look for rearend types and stuff.
for the 0331 head its in most to all 99-01 cherokee's with the 4.0 i6 engine the 8.25 rear end has a flat tab on the bottom.
Attachment 50482
Attachment 50482
at the very bottom? and the 8.25 doesnt have abs correct? Also what if its a 5 speed tranny what kind do I need to look for?
Yea you see were the cover goes around and theres like that flat excess there
and for a 5spd 91-99 had either the ax-5 or ax-15 both are good tranny's but the ax-15 os incredibly strong geared well and reliable
and for a 5spd 91-99 had either the ax-5 or ax-15 both are good tranny's but the ax-15 os incredibly strong geared well and reliable
Man, I gotta say any year Cherokee. Ive got two 84z an 87 a 96, a 99 and my beloved 01. They all have their ups and downs. 99 is a good year. Alot of good drivetrain components came in 99 year models. I know everybody says look out for 0331 heads. Ive got one on my 01. I just keep a eye on the coolant level. Its only got 64,??? miles on the odometer, but has been driven pretty hard. My mom has a 01 that has 103,??? miles with no problems with the 0331 cylinder head. Not all 99 year models came with the 0331 head. my 99 has the last of the 7130 heads(im porting almost as we speak). 99 was the last year of the HIGH pinion Dana 30 front axle, last year of the tubular headers, last year of the AISIN AX-15 manual tranny, last year of a distributor. I dont think the coil-on-plug ignitions are bad though(2000&2001 year XJs). I know people have had problems with them; I have not. My 87 has damn near 300,000 miles on original drivetrain and still mechanically sound enough that I would drive it across country. I would look for a well taken care of Jeep. Thats gonna be the best one. I would rather have a well taken care of granny and grampa driven 1987(first year of the 4.0, AW4, NP231&242, Dana 44(only year Ive ever found them in) and first year High pininion NON disconnect Dana 30) over a beat to hell 01. Though I do have a place in my heart for all 01s. After all they are the Last of the Best.
Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 730
Likes: 2
From: Joliet, Il
Year: 1996
Model: Cherokee
Engine: HO4.0 I6
I'm not that mechanically inclined like most of the guys on this forum are. But one thing I'll tell ya is that in my 3 1/2 years of driving I have owned an 88 and loved it to death... until I blew a head gasket
. I have owned an 89 which I loved to death... until the rear main seal practically pissed oil out of it
. And I now own a 96 which I still love to death because it is my first Jeep to last me more than a year!
.
But listen to the other guys on what years to buy, the only thing I have to tell you is that you will love it no matter what.
. I have owned an 89 which I loved to death... until the rear main seal practically pissed oil out of it
. And I now own a 96 which I still love to death because it is my first Jeep to last me more than a year! But listen to the other guys on what years to buy, the only thing I have to tell you is that you will love it no matter what.


