This all started with a no start. I could only sorta get it to start with starting fluid seemed vacuum, air leak type thing and so on related and a bunch of leaks around the top a lot! SO I decided to take it on myself to do this myself huh. (I know what these things lead to but moneys tight these days right lol) so I pulled the top of was surprised it wasn't that bad my hopes rise, I compression tested before around the board in the 100s One at 90 so I reseated and new guides cleaned everything up nice re tested and got 120-125 on all but one #3 came up to 98. Pulled the front and the pan off very clean for this many miles. As I suspected the chain had a bunch of slack so new chain and gears lined everything up nice. Put the head back on top indexed a new dist. hooked to new cap and rotor to the new wire to the plugs and new coil sitting on a new icu. refreshed all the grounds, traced all the grounds in the harness, replaced all relays and fuel pump ballast resistor, for good measure ! new cps and then hunting and messing with things and looking for the problem we shorted out the pcm that's when we found the mystery wire. A green/white coming out of the harness and clip for alt,dist oil pressure sender now I'm more confused than ever(see pic) and I still can't get it to start. It keeps acting like the timing is off and it's flooding I smell gas. I have spark but it has a orange tint to it (low battery??) Because of the gas smell I assume its getting gas but I went and got a fuel pressure testing kit and I'm going to test it tomorrow.I dont know how good or if any without a running vehical all the proceedures I've read say start the engine and look at the gauge ummph??? really need help advice on where to go next and where does this wire go??? I put the snap on diagnostic on it everything is in parameters considering no start and no stored info. I'm stumped my first time working on them 2nd one I've owned

 

Brother you and me both, I have new fuel pump new fuel pressure regulator new cap rotor button new coil, new crankshaft position sensor checked my injectors out of intake and all of them are firing and squirting fuel i put new orings on them while they were out. I also put a junkyard computer aswell so I am standing still I have Fuel at rail and i have spark at distributor and spark at the plugs so maybe we can find a soultion together, my next process was timing chain and gears like you but I dont know yet thanks.

 

Most of what I've read says that unless in a chain slip situation the ecu will compensate by using the sensors such as cps.and sync sensor mostly. I would look in other areas first if you can avoid it. Is the spark bright and have you refreshed the grounds I did all of them and they needed it bad and replaced the one from the firewall with a 4 gauge wire to the manifold. I'm replacing my battery today with a new one from napa Because I'm getting spark but it has a yellow tinge that make;s me leary of juice I'm getting 303 rpm when it turns over the snap-on diagnostic I'm using says I'm only getting 9 volts when it turns over and rich exhaust. I'm getting ready to go work on it now. No more money till I know WTF.

 

What year is your Jeep if you have 89-90 could you take a look at your wires and see if you can figure out where the grn/wht wire goes????

 

Are you sure you didn't install the cam shaft 180 out? Did you set it to true tdc and verify before removing? True tdc by piston position,not indicated tdc by the crank pulley, those like to slip on the elastomer.


The reason I ask,is after pulling mine apart some time ago,I found that my 88 has two can pin locations, and at some point, the cam gear was installed 180 out.

After lots of research,I found others that had the same problem. You can find more info on my build, but after 180 on the can, she runs great. Btw,before tear down,at tdc, she showed 180 out also.....just to clarify the engine never ran at true 180 out.

 

You nailed it dude right on. I so appreciate it. I just kept doing it right and as soon as I read your post it struck a note that I didn't consider. When I started the timing chain I rolled the gears to center line and saw that the gear marks where well off one another. Also how much movement there was. I decided to go for it so I went to pull the dist. and noticed I was 180 out but didn't put much to it because a buddy came over and we were messing with the dist.. I figured we just did it huh very interesting she started right up a little rough so I let run a couple min. shut off and restart repeat a few more time's and she came right in and purred. A little hesitation when you rev quick but seems to be getting better. I was going crazy. I'm glad I have all the new parts in it now and learned so much about this machine. It was fun mostly and really a breeze to work on in my mind. she should be sound now after a short time the build begins. I will post picks when I gett it out of the shop and out in the light back on her wheels I did hubs, rotors,calipars,Brakes, axel joint u's and shocks she should be a runner now.

 

You nailed it dude right on. I so appreciate it. I just kept doing it right and as soon as I read your post it struck a note that I didn't consider. When I started the timing chain I rolled the gears to center line and saw that the gear marks where well off one another. Also how much movement there was. I decided to go for it so I went to pull the dist. and noticed I was 180 out but didn't put much to it because a buddy came over and we were messing with the dist.. I figured we just did it huh very interesting she started right up a little rough so I let run a couple min. shut off and restart repeat a few more time's and she came right in and purred. A little hesitation when you rev quick but seems to be getting better. I was going crazy. I'm glad I have all the new parts in it now and learned so much about this machine. It was fun mostly and really a breeze to work on in my mind. she should be sound now after a short time the build begins. I will post picks when I get it out of the shop and out in the light back on her wheels I did hubs, rotors,calipers,Brakes, axle joint u's and shocks she should be a runner now.

 

Glad you found the problem! Good luck with the build, they sure are fun to play with.if you still have the hesitation you may be a tooth off,they run..but not that great, the comp can only compensate so much..but it will really show on a compression test.

 

Well mine is fixed now, I had a customer tell me that even if I think the Asd relay is working or the fuel pumo relay is working still replace them so let me sum up the action plan. I had fuel and spark but spark was weak due to the transfer of volts on weak relays (possible) I pumped all my bad gas out , and put a tune up on it plugs ,cap, rotor, wires, fuel filter. Because before those thing right there It wont not start and I had fuel to rail at proper pressure and spark but it must have been weak, furthermore I hope this helps, Failed to mention I put new asd relay and fuel pump relay with tuneup